S2000 Eibach 32mm Front swaybar Review/install

If you’re reading this article, it’s because you either own an S2000 or are eager to understand how a sway bar impacts your car. It’s no secret that upgrading to a larger sway bar can significantly improve your car’s handling. However, the real scoop you’re looking for goes beyond just the recommendation to upgrade, right? That’s where the crucial details come into play. Yes, it’s true that a larger sway bar can work wonders for your car’s handling. Yet, there’s a catch. Going too big, mismatching your front and rear sway bars, or using the wrong tire compound can all spell trouble and negate the benefits of an upgraded sway bar. Most aftermarket sway bars are “adjustable,” allowing you to tweak the stiffness based on the track, car setup, and driving style. Therefore, assuming that adding larger sway bars will automatically enhance your lap times may not always hold true. In general, a larger rear sway bar will increase oversteer, while a larger front sway bar will increase understeer. This is because a larger sway bar limits the car’s roll, thereby increasing friction on the tires and making it more prone to under/oversteer. The choice of tire compound can also impact the level of under/oversteer. These are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the variables in choosing the right sway bar. I want to stress that having the biggest sway bar isn’t always the optimal solution. It’s about finding the right combination of parts that work seamlessly together.

Patrick is not your typical car enthusiast who throws on parts just for the sake of it. He requires solid evidence that an upgrade will truly enhance his car’s performance. In his view, some modifications are simply unnecessary. Patrick lives by a philosophy that prioritizes track time over new parts, embraces the concept of “less is more,” and advocates for keeping things simple. He firmly believes that there’s always room for improvement and approaches each track with patience, dissecting it one turn at a time.

He doesn’t seek shortcuts to boost his track times and instead focuses wholeheartedly on honing his driving skills. When he learned that some highly skilled S2000 drivers still used a stock front sway bar, it validated his decision not to opt for a larger one. Patrick chose to rely on his own abilities to overcome any challenges on the track. While he managed to achieve impressive speed with the stock front sway bar, the car always felt somewhat unsettled. He had to exert immense effort to keep it performing well, often facing challenges due to the slightest errors in his driving. Patrick is no stranger to pushing the limits and understands the inherent risks of aiming for speed.

For this blog post, I decided to take a different approach. Instead of interviewing Pat and transcribing his responses for the review, I requested that he directly type up the review and share his thoughts on the front sway bar. Below, you’ll find Pat’s unfiltered feedback in his own words.

” “Just drive the car” “Adjust yourself, not the car”, just a few things I say to myself when it comes to HPDEs. I am always under the notion that we, the hobbyists, ain’t shit. We don’t really know as much as we think. Well, I probably discount myself to an extent, maybe humble to ad nauseam. So that brings us to my s2000. For a whole year, I’ve been running OEM sway bars on my s2000. Now the rule of thumb that most prescribed to is to have a thicker (stiffer) front sway when going square tire setup. The reason being is the s2000 chassis needs additional roll stiffness in the front to balance the car. S2000’s come with staggered tires from the factory so the lack of roll stiffness up front is countered by a smaller tire up front. So, what is an s2000 like with stock sways and square setup?

Well let me tell you one thing: the car will not understeer. That’s probably the only positive. Overall, the car was very oversteer prone in all situations. Corner entry, mid corner, and exit were all very touchy. It caused my driving to be very cautious on entry, and to have a keen focus on being smooth with steering and throttle inputs on exit. Also, the toe curve on the rear of Ap1s won’t help this tendency, but that’s another topic. It was only when a local fast guy told me to stop playing and get a stiffer front sway bar. Within a week I bought an Eibach front sway bar. So far, I’ve done three track days on the new setup. In my opinion, it was a great improvement. The car definitely hasn’t lost its essence, it will still rotate easily and tend to oversteer before it will understeer. However, the car feels more stable. I can actually trail brake the car and get on throttle sooner without the car stepping out. The car is better, which means I can improve my times because I trust the car. Lastly, the car is forgiving. If I bring the car from rotation to an oversteer state by error, I can correct it. Before, the rear would come around quick, sometimes I couldn’t get a head of it. In the end, I would recommend stiffer front sway most of the time but there’s a caveat. For my driving ability and driving style, it really helped me. In the beginning, I felt I should focus on improving my driving before changing the car, but maybe doing both is better. If FunctionTheory has taught us anything, it would be half the battle is to discover what works for you. Everyone is different, and there are no hard and fast rules. There’s some people fast on stock sways, I am just not one of those guys. “

Back to me now. As I mentioned earlier, Patrick isn’t the type of individual to haphazardly install parts on his car without fully comprehending their impact. It’s also quite humiliating to have a vehicle with numerous modifications only to be outperformed by a relatively stock car. It’s always preferable to progress gradually to the point where upgraded parts become necessary. Essentially, you should earn them as your driving skills improve and as you push the old/OEM parts beyond their limits.

We installed the sway bar several months ago, and after giving it ample time to prove its worth, the results speak for themselves. Despite being his daily driver, the improvements were immediately noticeable during his regular commute. The car is now significantly more controllable and forgiving, resulting in a much-improved driving experience. The sway bar’s impact was truly evident during his first track event, where he found pushing the car to its limits far less intimidating, allowing him to fully enjoy the experience. Additionally, his off-track excursions reduced significantly, with only one incident in a total of three track days. Patrick is now left questioning why he didn’t make this upgrade sooner?

Warning to AP1 Users! Upgrading to a larger front sway bar can lead to the upper control arm pockets tearing, especially when using R compound tires. Certain companies offer weld-in gusset kits to resolve this issue. Although Patrick has not taken any action yet, he is currently using “street” tires. He will closely monitor the situation for now and intends to invest in a gusset kit in the future.

Now onto the installation process. This was, without a doubt, one of the simplest tasks I’ve ever tackled when it comes to car modifications. To be honest, I hardly had to lift a finger – my involvement was mostly limited to capturing photos. The only assistance Pat required was an extra pair of hands to support the new sway bar and get the bolts secured, and that’s where Ever stepped in.

This is the “unboxing” you get a hollow 32mm sway bar, D bushings, grease, stickers, and instructions.

Its surprisingly lighter than the OEM one.

Rigby is always enthusiastic about spending time in the garage.

Start by loosening the lugs and lifting the car with a jack. If possible, use two jacks for ease. Position one on the side to elevate the front high enough for placing a jack underneath. Then, proceed to raise the car and secure it on jack stands.

Don’t overlook the instructions. Just kidding, it’s straightforward and self-explanatory.

Remove both front wheels.

Inspect where your tire is rubbing on the fender liner

To gain full access to the front sway bar, it is essential to remove the specific plastic valence in place. This step is crucial for effective access.

The difference between human boredom and animal boredom is significant. Humans have the ability to stimulate their minds with a constant influx of information, even if it is useless. In contrast, animals like dogs simply sit there, aware of their boredom but unable to do anything about it. This contrast teaches us valuable lessons. Rigby, for instance, finds joy in simply being present, while Ever may wish to be elsewhere. This prompts us to question whether we are truly bored or just desensitized to the stimulation around us.

You can easily identify the plastic valence that requires removal.

Next, you’ll be disconnecting the end links. There’s no need to remove them from the Lower Control Arm, simply disconnect the sway bar from them.

Now unfasten the end link on the opposite side.

Next, confidently unbolt the X2 bolts per D bracket to easily remove the sway bar.

Here is the comparison between the OEM and the Eibach Sway bar

Make sure to use the supplied grease to lube the new D bushings, this will prevent the rubber bushings from developing a squeak as the suspension cycles.

Slide the OEM brackets over the D bushings.

Have a friend assist you in holding the bar steady while you easily thread the bolts into the brackets by hand.

“I don’t think he even knows what he’s staring at, it’s like trying to spot a ninja – you can’t see that sway bar for the life of you!”

Now reinstall the plastic valence.

That’s it, you’re all set. Simply remove 6 nuts/bolts and the sway bar comes right off. It’s that easy.

I’m just as clueless as they are – it’s just your run-of-the-mill F20c engine.

Installing a front sway bar on an S2000 might not seem like a complex task, but it is essential to understand the significant impact it can have on your car’s handling. In Pat’s case, this upgrade greatly enhanced the stability and predictability of his car, resulting in a more confident driving experience. While many enthusiasts focus on boosting their car’s speed and power to improve lap times, these are merely quick fixes that do not address the core issue of refining driving skills. By neglecting seat time and solely aiming to increase speed, drivers are at risk of pushing the limits and compromising their safety on the track. As Patrick highlighted, truly connecting with your car and comprehending the effect of modifications like a sway bar is key to enhancing lap times. Without a doubt, investing in such modifications can significantly decrease lap times and elevate the overall driving experience. However, it is crucial to have a clear understanding of the alterations being made to your car before making any decisions. Ultimately, prioritizing seat time is paramount as it remains the foundation for achieving true speed and skill on the track.

Thanks for checking out my installation and review of the Eibach 32mm hollow sway bar for the S2000. I truly believe this article holds crucial information and insights. It’s packed with valuable knowledge that can elevate your understanding of taking your car on the track. Keep in mind that he is still running an OEM AP2 rear sway bar. Not every setup will suit your driving style, but it’s reassuring to know what others have achieved, showing that it’s possible to excel with or without specific parts. If someone else can do it, so can you. It might just require more practice, because ultimately we all share the same basic skill sets as humans. What sets us apart is how effectively we refine them.

As always, feel free to share this article or any parts of it that you enjoy. This will help spread the Theory of Function to everyone out there, and together we can help develop new enthusiasts who understand that you don’t need a fully built car to take to the track. You can enjoy tracking your car even if it’s relatively stock. Remember, I’m always here to help! I would love to answer any questions you might have about this article or any others. Feel free to email me at Billy@functiontheory.com, DM me on Instagram @Functiontheory, or simply comment on this post below. I WILL RESPOND, and I truly appreciate all the feedback and interactions with fellow enthusiasts.

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