Feal 441+ coilover install

Feal 441+ coilover install

Ever’s car finally got lowered! If you have been following his build then you will know this has been a long time coming, and if you haven’t been following the build then let me get you up to speed. You see, Ever has a NSX and he uses it to do HPDE events, but as you would imagine there is quite a cringe factor for him on track with it. He knew that one day the inevitable would happen and he was going to damage his NSX because he was always pushing the limits of it on track. His solution to the this would be to build a crap car.  You know, A car that he could use daily, one that he could take to the track, and one that wouldn’t break the bank. To read the previous posts we’ve done on his car, and everything leading up to now click the links below.

http://functiontheory.com/2019/07/the-mrs-that-almost-wasnt/

http://functiontheory.com/2019/12/bet-you-forgot-about-the-mrs-didnt-you/

And if you’re interested in reading up on his NSX you can click the link below.

http://functiontheory.com/2018/06/new-supercar-experimental/

Let’s begin! As many of you that own a Toyota MRS know, there isn’t much available when it comes to a coilover for those cars. With K sport, BC, and Megan being pretty much the only options that didn’t cost a fortune or weren’t complete garbage, Ever ended up taking a chance on Feal 441+ with swift springs and valved specifically for the track. The neat features of the Feal suspension is that they are hand built, they come with a shock dyno chart for each set of coilovers they make, all the replacement parts to repair broken pieces/parts of the coilover are available from Feal Suspension in Southern California, and lastly if you need to get them rebuilt or revalved that is also all done at the Feal Suspension headquarters in Southern California too. This is all great because unlike “JDM” coilovers parts are readily available and you don’t have to wait months to get them serviced.

In true Ever style he has of course gone all out by getting pillow ball top hats, and swift springs. I kept trying to remind him that I only have Tein FLexZ’s on my 4 door, but of course he has gone for the extreme. The plan for this build was that it wasn’t going to be crazy, that he would be able to drive his car to any HPDE event on the west coast, and that the car would still be able to be a daily.

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Along with the Feal coilover, Ever would also be installing Federal RS-pro tires in a 205/50 on a 15×8 wheel. This was also another rule that I had made up for us, we couldn’t run larger than a 205 tire and it couldn’t be less than 200 tw. The cusco swaybar will be going on after he has done a few track days with the car just so he can feel what it’s like without and then with.

Last friday as I was working on my Dads CRV project, Ever came home and told me he was going to head over to see our good friend Bobby and get his tires mounted. Mounting the tires quickly escalated into installing his coilovers and turned into an all night project. With the NSX and our motorcycles taking up all the room in his garage, this meant we had to do it all on his angled driveway. This was a great opportunity for us to test how rigid his chassis was.

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Because the MRS has a macpherson strut at all four corners, it makes for very easy installation of the coilovers. Just unbolt the X3 12mm nuts on top per side, then remove the X2 17mm bolts that hold the shock to the spindle. There is also X2 10mm bolts that hold the ABS wire and brake line to the shock.

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Slide the new coilover in place then reattach the nuts/bolts you just removed.

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Take note of how much thread is showing on the shock. This ended up being almost higher than stock ride height as you’ll see below.

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We also had the camber set to zero.

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Now onto the rear. This is going to be the almost exact same process as the front with the exception of the X3 nuts that hold the top of the strut to the chassis. On the front they were 12mm nuts, but the rear is 14mm. Also the rear swaybar endlink bolts to the shock/coilover, to remove the bolt you will need a 14mm as well.

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Out with the old, and in with the new.

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Again, take note of how much thread there is.

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Now for the otherside.

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At this point I begin to worry about how far the wheels will “poke”

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Side note: Ever has also relocated his battery to the front.

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Well that’s too high!

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And that poke is way too much.

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Round two! he lowers the front all the way. (you can see how all three lock rings are now touching. Remember from above how much thread there was showing)

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Thats looking much better, and you can see we also maxed out negative camber on the top hat to not only eliminate the poke but more negative camber will lower the car more too.

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ehhh… still not low enough.

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This time he opted to remove one of the three lock rings,  now leaving only two

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Now thats looking a lot better.

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Now for the rear. Below is what it looked like when we first put them on.

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now it looks like this.

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Maxed out negative camber up front. (the rear doesn’t have the camber adjustment in the top hat. It only has a slotted hole where the coilover bolts to the spindle. the front also has the slotted hole too, along with the top camber plate)

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Now it’s looking good.

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Now fast forward a week. Ever’s been driving the car everyday to work, the springs have had a chance to break in, Ever washed his dirty ass car, and we finally took some pictures of it in the daylight.

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Ever’s over all impression of these so far is that they are a bit aggressive for street driving. I drove in it with him and I would say that it’s not too bad, but you can definitely tell they are valved for the track. He has adjusted the dampening to 9 clicks up from softest in the front, and 6 clicks up from softest in the rear. When we had originally put them on we set them all to the softest setting, but it ended up being way to bouncy. His spring rates are 7k front and 9k rear, he admits that he probably should have just gone with the 5-6k front and 8k rear since the plan was to drive this car a lot on the street. However the higher spring rates might end up benefiting him on track, we will have to wait and see. The only thing he still wants to do is lower the rear a tad bit more and take out a little bit of the negative camber in the rear. Then it’s off to my garage for an alignment, and then track time!

As it sits, he is in love with the car and can now relate to why I love my 4 door so much. It great to have a crap car, that isn’t built to the moon. Because the fun of having a car is being able to use it to its limits without fear of wrecking it, and it’s great to have nothing to prove so you can just enjoy driving.

Thanks so much for reading about Ever’s car. I know it doesn’t look like much, but we really enjoyed the build of the car thus far. For us it’s very rewarding to see its transformation to what it is now, and the fact that so much soul was poured into the car already makes it that much more special. For now his plan is to just get as much seat time as possible, and leave the car as is. Of course it would be great if he could come across a great deal on a hard top because they really make these cars look awesome. Unfortunately a hard top is at least 1500 bucks, and that translates into a lot of HPDE events. If you have any questions about the build please don’t hesitate to reach out via email Billy@functiontheory.com, instagram @functiontheory, or just comment below. if you like what you see please feel free to share, we need to help spread the word about functional cars by letting people know its ok if your car doesn’t look that good. As long as you’re using it!

 

 

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