As you all know 2 months ago, we picked up a brand new 2019 Honda Fit for Angie. Now that she has a brand-new car, that’s sporty, relevant, 6 speed, and all her own she has been bitten by the modifying bug. As an automotive enthusiast we know that it’s impossible to leave a car stock, especially one that you truly love. Angie and I have been together for the last 17 years, we met doing car stuff through mutual car friends, so she has always been somewhat into cars, and had a pretty good understanding of them. Throughout that time, she has pretty much just sat on the side lines as she watched me fix up multiple cars. But now it’s her time, and I’m excited that she is truly passionate about her car. I know it’s hard for people to believe, but I haven’t made one suggestion to her about trying to fix up the car. She has researched everything about her car on her own. Sometimes when I come home from work, I walk into her watching best motoring videos, and she starts asking me questions about what oversteer and understeer are, and why some cars are faster even though they have less power, and even said “did you know that you can put a K20 in a Fit”. It’s truly satisfying to share all my knowledge with her and we totally geek out on things she wants to get for the Fit. She now also understands why it’s such an addicting yet very rewarding hobby, and why I have spent so much money on cars over the years.
This whole thing started one day when she was vacuuming out her car. She looked at Erics car and asked if his wheels would fit her car? I replied that yes, they would, but I insisted on not modifying her car. I told her to just leave it alone, and just enjoy having a new car. But that wasn’t what she had in mind, so we took the wheels off Erics car, and put them on hers. She was so happy while we were doing it, but then instantly disappointed as we finished, because the car looked goofy being stock height with aftermarket wheels, with smaller sidewall tires. She drove the car around the block with Erics wheels but stock height and was happy about the performance upgrade aspect of it but was so upset at how ugly it looked that she came in the house, and we ordered swift springs LOL.
We opted to go with Swift Springs because her research had shown that the Tein springs actually lowered it a bit too much, H&R springs didn’t have very good reviews, spoon ones were way to expensive, Tanabe weren’t in stock anywhere, and we couldn’t find the skunk2 ones for her year. But honestly the Swift Spring were a no brainer, They have such an amazing reputation in the car community, they balance performance and comfort, and you know they are going to last, and not sag. Yes, there are a few other ones out there, but honestly the price difference is minimal between them all so why would you not go with Swift Springs. We ordered them through evasive motorsports, and they arrived a day later, they also offer free shipping as well which was a great bonus.
Before we move on to the actual install how to, I’ll post a link to the article about the day she got her new fit and how I inherited the accord as my new daily. Since my daily at the time (the 4 door) was just stolen a few days prior, and clearly, I couldn’t continue to drive it to work for fear of it getting stolen again and not being so lucky to find it all in one piece again.
Now on to the Install process, and over all review about the springs.
Don’t freak out, the springs do come properly packaged we just removed the packaging for the picture. This is how high the car was at stock height.
Step 1:
Start by breaking loose the lugs, jacking the car up, and placing it level on 4 jack stands.
Step 2:
We will start with the front since its more work compared to the rear. There are two panels in the wiper cowl that you need to gently remove to gain access to where the top of the shock bolts to the chassis. (I only pictured one) but it’s easy to see where the one on the driver’s side is.
Now that you have gained access to the top, DO NOT loosen yet. Remove the wheel to gain access to all the stuff you need to loosen to remove the strut.
Remove the bolt holding the sway bar end link to the strut.
gently slide the speed sensor wire grommet off the tab its mounted to on the strut. Just wiggle and pull, nothing to unbolt.
unbolt the brake line bracket from the strut.
And lastly remove the two bolts holding the spindle to the strut.
Now go back up top and remove the rubber cap on top of the strut. Underneath that rubber cap is an Allen to stop the shock shaft from spinning while you try to loosen the nut that is actually a threaded washer style nut that will allow to the strut to drop out. Make sure you have someone holding the strut in the wheel well, so it doesn’t literally fall out and possibly damage something.
This is what you should be left with.
Step 3:
You are going to have to use spring compressors to remove the stock springs, but you will not need them to install the new Swift Springs as they are shorter.
The shock boot is attached to a plastic “tophat” that you turn counter clockwise to remove from the OEM spring, and you will also need to remove the rubber from the bottom of the OEM spring.
To reinstall the “tophat” on the new spring simply thread it on like a large nut turning clockwise till it stops. you will be able to see where the spring will hit the plastic tab and it will be properly seated.
When the rubber is slid on the bottom of the spring there is a rubber tab that fits into the strut to assure the spring is correctly placed on the strut.
Here is what it looks like all re assembled and compared to the OEM one.
Step 4:
Here is what you want it to look like when reinstalled. Start by having someone thread the nut back on the top of the strut to hold it in place while you reconnect and tighten everything in the wheel well. Re attach the two bolts holding the spindle to the strut, the brake line tab, the sway bar end link, slide the speed sensor back on its tab. Don’t forget to make sure the top nut is tightened all the way before reinstalling the plastic pieces into the wiper cowl
Now repeat these steps on the other side. To keep from having any issues of how to properly re assemble everything. do one side at a time, so you can compare the OEM vs the one you are doing.
Step 5:
The rear, The rear is very, very easy. You are going to literally just unbolt two bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the rear suspension. Then pull the springs out.
Remove this bolt
Use a jack to keep the tension off the bolt when removing.
You can now move the shock out, and slowly let the jack down. (note the spring will not come out while the shock on the other side is still bolted on) Take the jack and move it to the other side and do the same things. jack it up to relieve the tension on the bolt as you remove it. the slowly lower the shock.
As you can see even with both shocks removed the springs will still stay in. have someone push down on the brake drum, and you should be able to pull the springs out.
Take note of the rubber pieces that are on the top and the bottom of the OEM spring. remove those and place on the new spring keep the same orientation of each rubber piece. Like the front there is a rubber nipple on the lower rubber that will fit into a hole on the rear coil bucket the properly line it all up.
You will need to remove both of the OEM springs and then install both new springs at the same time. This can be slightly challenging since the overall length of the new spring is less than the OEM ones. You will have to place both of them on the lower suspension coil bucket, then have someone use a jack to jack up one side, and it will simultaneously jack the opposite side up. Remember to keep in mind that the lower rubber nipple fits into a hole on the lower coil bucket area. now just line up the holes on the shock and reinstall the bolt. once one side is in, lower jack and move it to the other side and reinstall the shock bolt on the other side. and you’re all done.
Now just throw your wheels back on, lower the car, and make sure your lugs are tight.
Overall, this is a very easy process. Honestly the hardest part is using the spring compressors, but not because its hard but rather more time consuming. Everything comes apart so easily on these cars that this should only take a about 2 hours. The rear is so easy that it only takes about 20 mins. Just keep in mind the orientation of the rubber pieces and remember that there is a rubber nipple that needs to fit in the lower coil bucket.
We finished the project really late at night and weren’t able to take the car for an official drive until the next day. Above is how the car sat before any driving.
Below is how the car was after about 100 miles of driving.
There is over 70 more Pictures of this thing on my Flickr you can click the link below to check them all out.
The overall impression of the Swift Springs is awesome, I would definitely recommend to anyone. The car is smooth and responsive, way less body roll, but still drives like a stock car. Of course, if you hit a manhole or pothole, it’s a bit harsh but nothing too crazy. We loaded three people in it and drove to lunch and you couldn’t even tell it was lowered, the ride still felt amazing. Of course, the car isn’t low enough to make it drive too harsh, but I feel like the springs offer more than just aesthetics. The performance gains are amazing, from quicker acceleration to better feel under braking, and much more confidence in the turns. See below for the happiness they will bring to you.
Awesome write up! Please share size and spec of your wheel and tire set up. They look great with the drop! Thank you!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. I do have a post on the blog titled “the epic saga of wheel selection” going over every different size wheel we tried out on the car and what size wheel and tire we ended up going with. https://functiontheory.com/2019/09/the-epic-saga-of-wheel-selection/
Let me know what you think
Excellent writeup! Been following functiontheory and always a fan. I too have a 2017 gk5 and concerned about the ugly wheel gap and also if i lower the car the exposed oil filter below is prone to damage and lowering makes it even more riskier. Is a 30mm drop practical provided that the car is my daily and family car and the roads are almost non existant. Keep going
Awesome! Im glad you like what im doing. From my experience with Angie’s Fit, I would say 30mm would be fine for a daily family car. Hell, her car can still go pretty fast over speed bumps (I legit pucker my butt hole pretty tight when she goes over them quickly) she then goes on to tell me how its her car and she knows it well… lol