So, let’s get started. I bought an RB25DET to slap in this bad boy. I’ve known people that have had sr20’s and rb20’s but I was looking for a bit more stock power than those motors have. I know that you can build those other motors to make power easily, but I also wanted to do something different and would help get the blog more known. Everyone has a sr20 swap so there was not much cool factor there, plus I really love the way that a straight six sounds. These are the reasons that I decided to go RB25.
I purchased my motor swap from zerolift. I usually don’t buy motors online; I like to buy them from a place I can see them and pick out a good one. BUT, as it turns out, RB25’s were very hard to find in southern California. After going to a few engine warehouses and calling some others without luck, I did some research on what the best place to order a motor from online was. Zerolift had tons of great reviews, so I went with them I bought a full series 2 swap, and they shipped it to my door. When the motor arrived at my house… To my surprise, I found it to be very clean, which was very excting.
At the end of May 2011, I started to get a parts pile going in my house. I ordered most of my parts from rawbrokerage.com. Those guys are awesome! and the rest I got from Enjuku racing those guys are awesome as well. I was very happy with both of their customer services. parts started piling up at my house. Except for a few items that were out of stock: wiring harness, FMIC, and some other misc. things.
Pictured above is the first delivery I got. It includes; ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch with HD pressure plate, DSS aluminum drive shaft, ISIS radiator, Sikky thermal intake manifold gasket, Nismo thermostat, raw brokerage radiator hoses, cs test pipe, cs stainless steel turbo lines, walbro fuel pump, raw brokerage intake kit, McKinney mount kit with semi solid motor mounts, ISIS shot gun style 3″ exhaust.
Above is how the car started out stock, SOHC POWER lol
Above, got it pulled out and started to clean the engine bay.
Above, got the engine bay clean, and the started to stitch weld the engine bay.
Welded up the diff and installed it.
Installed cs sub frame collars.
Got the motor in. it went in pretty easy. you just have to pound the firewall a little for starter clearance issues. McKinney mount kit was very well made and had to make only a few minor adjustments.
Threw on some old teins my friend had lying around
Got some more parts. PSM wheels spacers, shift knob, ebrake drift knob, and water temp sensor adapter, autometer boost gauge, muteki lug nuts, aeromotive FPR kit, clutch pedal, and brake pedal for manual car.
this is how it sits now as of august. it needs to go a little lower still :).
I drove it like this for a few months but then things started to snowball.
Then it just got more outta hand. Varstoen wheels, RPF1’s and 8 spare tires. Other wheels on the right were Enkei PF01’s for my EG
Ever let me borrow his tundra to pick everything up.
Parts shop max Hydro, wheel spacers and lower links that allowed me to lower the car more and not have the arms hit the subframe.
Then the 5 lug conversion.
Also installed Parts shop max comp coilovers to achieve that slammed stance.
Rattle canned the body kit to a color that more matched the car.
Ever gave me a hand me down wheel and hub/quick release setup.
Sikky front sway bar and custom home made power brace
Slammed it even more.