It’s no secret that the FK8 is plagued with overheating issues. It seems like no matter what I try and do to combat the overheating, it still rears its ugly head. Of course, I’m only experiencing overheating issues when I’m pushing the car hard on track. During any other type of driving though, the car is fine and is always below 190 degrees.
The current mods I have installed to help prevent it from overheating are..
- First molding vented hood.
- Koyo radiator.
- Acuity hoses.
- RV6 catted down pipe (still has a cat but substantially smaller than the OEM. My reasoning behind this is the OEM one that would just turn into a large heat sink and radiate immense amounts of heat)
- Inlet pipe is gold wrapped and has lava blanket.
- Gold tape on the oil pan where the front pipe passes.
- OEM front pipe is wrapped in exhaust wrap.
- 2020+ grill that I even cut holes in to increase air flow (much like the EVS grille for 17-19 FK8’s)
I still currently have a stock ECU (no tune), stock exhaust, and stock airbox.
Before you go off and tell me that you know someone that tracks their FK8, and it doesn’t overheat… I don’t even want to hear it. I guarantee you that person is nowhere near fast (which is fine), nor are they pushing it to its absolute limit. I have read about it umpteen times on forums and the Facebook pages. Someone always chimes in and says they track their car or knows someone that does, and they never overheat.
Whenever someone mentions that or tries to argue that they never overheat, my blood just starts to boil, because I know it’s not true. THERE ISN’T ANYONE FAST THAT DOESN’T OVERHEAT! If you claim you don’t overheat then you aren’t fast, plain, and simple. Again, there is nothing wrong with not being fast. I just mean you can’t claim your car doesn’t overheat. Now there are some caveats to this “I’m not overheating” conundrum.
- People that have stock ECU’s (like me) have no way to monitor ECT’s and they are just measuring how hot the car is based on the gauge cluster. Unfortunately, the gauge cluster will not indicate overheating (above the halfway’ish mark) until your ECT is over 220 degrees. This is technically overheating, and your car has already pulled a bunch of timing and the power has been greatly reduced. THIS IS OVERHEATING! However, if you have a 20/21 FK8 (like me) then you have the LogR app, which shows you ECT. This is how I know that OEM gauge cluster won’t go above halfwayish until 220 degrees.
- People that are tuned (Hondata or Ktuner) do have a way to see ECT but the tune does not pull as much if any timing to adjust when the ECT starts to climb. That is a failsafe built into the OEM ecu. Most people that are tuned still do overheat and if they don’t it’s because they are running E85.
There should now never be any more arguing about it. EVERY FK8 OVERHEATS WHEN PUSHED HARD!
Before I even purchased this car, I been researching ways to cure the overheating issues with this chassis. I have read every article on the internet and felt I was well versed in the overheating matters on this car. I will admit, I did fall victim to the propaganda that was plastered all over the forums… I was misled into believing that the cars overheating issues weren’t that bad and if you had a hood, and radiator this would cure 80% of the cooling problems.
Of course, during my first track day with the car I quickly learned just how wrong everyone was. This thing was overheating on the second lap out! At that time, I already had the vented hood, the Koyo rad, acuity hoses, and had even cut and modified my 2020 grille. The elephant in the room here was the fact that it was 95 degrees out, so I could understand why the car was overheating still.
After that first track weekend I learned a lot and was able to experience the overheating issues firsthand. Don’t get me wrong, I would never expect a turbocharged FWD car to not overheat in 95-degree weather when being pushed to its limits. I just didn’t expect it to happen so quickly.
Now, I do whole heartedly believe because of the modifications I had done, the car was able to very quickly recover and get back below 210 degrees (as noted on the LogR app). The problem was that when on a flyer, the ECT’s would get all the way up to 240+. This is absolutely terrible for the car; I can’t even imagine what the OIL temps were. Yes, the LogR app does show oil temp, but it’s not a true oil temp. What I mean by this is, the Oil temp displayed is merely some sort of mathematical algorithm based on the IAT, ECT, oil pressure and quite possibly some other parameters (I’m not exactly sure which ones).
After that weekend had passed, I had naively blamed the overheating issues on the air temps being in the mid/high 90’s all weekend. I went on ahead and signed up for a speed ventures event one month later. This event was going to be at Buttonwillow in mid-October and this meant the air temps usually wouldn’t exceed 70 degrees. As the event drew near, I didn’t do any other cooling mods to the car, and it was set up just as it was from my last track weekend.
I was feeling very confident. I genuinely believed that because the air temps were in the 60’s I would not experience any sort of overheating and would be able to run hard all day. WRONG! My car had run cool throughout the morning because the air temps never got above 65 degrees. The car was barley even getting to 210 degrees for ECT, oil on the other hand was still getting about 230-240 range (monitored via LogR app) keep in mind that I am also always running my heater on full blast.
I’ll admit that it did seem to be running substantially cooler and I was very relieved to see this. I even remember thinking… “It must have just been because the last event had air temps in the 90’s. As long as I just track in when it’s cooler out the car will be fine with the modifications I had done.” Mind you that morning I was also able to PB with a 2:00.63 at Buttonwillow CW13. That morning had also been extremely overcast and it even began to rain for about an hour.
Once the rain had cleared, the sun came out and the air temps soared to 75 degrees. I was still chasing that elusive Sub2 lap and the harder I tried the hotter my car would get. I would spend the rest of that weekend at buttonwillow dancing around 220-degree ECT’s and having to run cool down laps every 3-4 laps. It was frustrating to say the least and I was disappointed that my cooling upgrades wouldn’t allow me to go flat out for a whole session.
After talking to a few fellow FK8 drivers that weekend. I learned that some of them were shifting at 6k instead of the 7k redline to help prolong the inevitable overheating. This made sense, but still didn’t seem like the solution I was looking for.
My next track day was set for December 12th and was yet again at Buttonwillow. Unfortunately, this track day ended up being a total wash. There was such dense fog that the track didn’t even go hot until 1pm. Everyone only got two sessions instead of the four we were scheduled for. Prior to this event I did install the RV6 catted downpipe in hope to reduce some of the under-hood temps. Once the fog had cleared the sun had started to shine through and the temps got into the high 60’s. Despite the added downpipe and the temps being in the 60’s, the ECT’s still danced around that 220 range.
Again, I was able to go hard for a few laps but not for a full session. This was now my sixth track day with the car. I had started to face the music. I began to accept that my car was just going to overheat and there was nothing to be done about it. Before you tell me anything about spending 1400 dollars on a PWR/C&R track radiator, hold that thought until later. I will touch on this.
So here I was. Six track days in and no reasonable cooling mod could solve my problems. By this point I had accepted the cars fate. I began to shift my focus to my goal of going Sub2, at Buttonwillow with a stock ECU, stock intake, stock exhaust FK8.
My next track day was going to be in March at Buttonwillow again. This time I was only focused on one thing and that one thing was going Sub2. Well, during the first session I was able to achieve a major motorsports milestone. I finally made it into the Sub2 club.
Weather conditions were optimal that morning with temps in the high 50’s. The car would go on to perform well for the first two sessions. But, would again start to get hot after 11am when the air temps would begin to climb. They would climb all the way to the mid 70’s and yet again the car would struggle to stay cool. I was seeing ECT’s peak at 230’s with the air temp at 75 degrees.
It was a bittersweet victory for sure. I was happy about the Sub2, but disappointed in the cars ability to adequately cool itself. One thing I did notice this time around was my IAT’s (as monitored via the LogR app) were showing 140+ degrees. Much like when the ECT is too high and the ECU pulls timing. The same thing happens when the IAT’s are too high.
Way back before I purchased the car when I was researching ways to increase cooling efficiency. I had read something that stated the HPD cars that Honda races still use the OEM intercooler. They did this because. The smaller, thinner OEM core would allow more airflow to the radiator and thus allow the car to cool better.
This idea had always stuck with me, and I was convinced that I would never need to upgrade my intercooler. The theory made sense… A smaller, thinner intercooler core would allow more air to pass through, I was sold. Up until now I had never even considered getting an intercooler. I thought it would have no effect on the cars cooling ability.
However, after trying to go Sub2 repeatedly that day without success again. I did start to take concern with the IAT’s being in the 140+ range. I started to think about how bad that hot air was for the combustion chamber and how it didn’t promote good engine power. I also started thinking that my Engine was now getting hit with a triple threat. Stifling air, Hot water, and boiling oil. Keep in mind this is 140+ range while WOT (wide open throttle) going 118mph into sunset turn. This was much worse than 140+ temps while sitting in traffic at a red light. I will touch more on this at the end of this article.
I started thinking… “Well, if I couldn’t stop my car from overheating, the next best thing was to eliminate one or two elements of that triple threat.” My thought process around this was, it was going to be better for the engine overall if I could at least keep in check some of the cooling. And hopefully, just maybe this would prolong my engine life just a little bit more.
After returning home from that track day, I immediately started to research intercoolers and oil coolers. Because I have a 20/21 FK8 I have the LKAS (Lane Keep Assist) sensor in the driver side bumper where most companies have designed their oil coolers to go. A good buddy of mine had mentioned that Greddy made an oil cooler that would fit our year cars. It actually mounted to the front bumper beam and sat directly behind the grille.
I looked it up on Greddy’s site and much to my surprise it said that it only fit 17-19 FK8’s. I knew that there were no other differences between the 17-19 and the 20-21 other than the grille, and the LKAS system. I proceeded to read the instructions that Greddy had for the installation of this oil cooler and was convinced that it would fit my year FK8. Just to be sure I had emailed Greddy to see if maybe there was something I was missing. When they responded, they stated that they hadn’t had the opportunity to test fit it on the 20-21 FK8, but they believed that it would fit. That was all I needed to hear, I ordered it that day.
A few days later I received the oil cooler. I had received it just before leaving the house to go to work. That night when I got off work Angie and I stayed up until 3am installing it on the car.
Below is what’s included in the oil cooler kit.
It also comes with the iconic GREX thermostatic sandwich plate too.
Below is what the car looked like before we began the install. Again, take notice of how much my grille is cut out to increase air flow. I actually do have a J’s grille that I had purchased when I was installing the radiator. However, I never installed it because I didn’t want to have to cut the plastic part of the OEM bumper that the red “H” mounts to. The car was just too new for me to be cutting up already.
We jacked the car up and took off the front wheels.
Removed the front bumper completely.
Removed the OEM intercooler because I did decide on an aftermarket one and it was already on order too. I will talk about that further along when we get to that step in this process.
Here’s the oil cooler mounted to the bumper bar. Even now you can see just how much of the radiator airflow is blocked from it. Just imagine with the grille and bumper reinstalled.
Lines connected and loosely ran. The line blocks what little is left of airflow to the radiator.
This is where we stopped for the night. The oil cooler was officially mounted, and all lines were run. I was just waiting on the Intercooler I had ordered to come. Once the intercooler arrived, I would be able to reassemble everything and take the car for a drive.
A few days later I was still waiting for the intercooler to arrive. It was my day off and I took this opportunity to install my Sparco bucket seat with PCI rail into the FK8. The FK8 does come with some very bolstered seats but I was still having to brace my knees on the door and center console around every turn. I figured installing a full race bucket would give me the added support I would need to focus more on driving and not so much on sliding around the OEM seat.
Because I wanted to maintain as much OEM functions as possible, I opted for the PCI slider too. I did not want to have a fixed seat where only someone my height could drive the car. I still wanted Angie to be able to drive the car from time to time and I wanted everyone to have the ability to experience firsthand the awesomeness of this car. (when its not overheating)
Here is the OEM seat in the car.
Now with it removed.
OEM compared to the Sparco
Sparco installed in the car. This seat is actually out of my EG, so it is slightly used.
Because there is an airbag in the OEM seat, you’ll need to get a canceller. A canceller is just a resistor that you tap into the air bag plug to fool the system into thinking you still have an air bag connected. If you don’t do this, then you will have an error light on your dash.
There are three plugs that are associated with your seat.
- Airbag (yellow one) that you will wire the resistor into.
- Seatbelt (blue one) you will just remove the seatbelt from the OEM seat and attach it to the new seat rail. The plug is attached to the latch mechanism.
- Seat position sensor (white one) This will have to be unbolted from the OEM seat and then reattached somewhere on the new one. As you can see I just bolted it to the rail. To be totally honest, I’m not sure if you even need to have this plugged in or not. I just did it because it was easy to transfer over.
To my surprise the intercooler was delivered as I was finishing up the seat install.
There are many options when it comes to intercoolers for the FK8. I decided on the 27won one because I feel they had a lot of data and had done a lot of research to back up the data. Their intercooler isn’t the biggest and it also isn’t the smallest one out there. This was one of the many reasons I decided on this one. I am a little disappointed that it comes with the brand name already stenciled on and there is no option to just have it plain.
As you can see below the size and thickness is obvious, but the really neat thing that sold me on it was the hot side and how it has a large radius bend that allows for better airflow and increased velocity. This is all backed up by their research and a much better explanation of it is on their website.
The hardest part about the intercooler installation is probably removing the bumper. Seriously though, this intercooler and I’m sure all others, install easily. Just unbolt a few things and remove the OEM one, then reinstall the new one and voila!
The biggest issue I had was trying to get the 27won’s special hot side large radius bend to clear the lines for the Greddy oil cooler. This was an issue that neither company was at fault for. Greddy had designed their oil cooler to work with their intercooler, and 27won had designed their intercooler to not have an aftermarket oil cooler installed. In both of their defenses, space is very limited in that area.
The 27won intercooler is a thing of beauty and I love how it fits tightly against the bumper beam.
At this point, I did start the car and ensure everything was working properly before putting the bumper back on. Because I installed the oil cooler I checked for any leaks, and because I installed the intercooler also, I checked to make sure there were no boost leaks. I let the car warm up to operating temperature, let the fan cycle twice, then revved to check for boost leaks. Everything was good and I threw the bumper back on. I didn’t do a “how to” remove the bumper because 27won has very detailed instructions on how to remove it.
Car looks so fucking mean now!
The oil cooler is very close to the grille. However, according to Greddy it is this close on the 17-19 as well. I can confirm though, there is no risk on the plastic melting or deforming. I have already done a track day with this set up and there were no issues with plastic melting. (I will talk more about this at the end of this post.)
Ever and Patrick were over helping me out too.
After getting Oil cooler, Intercooler, and Seat installed I had a track day planned with Speed Ventures at LVMS ORC (Las Vegas Motor Speedway, Outside Road Course) on April 16th, 2022. I was excited because the weather was going to be very similar to my last track day at Buttonwillow in March (when I was experiencing very high IAT’s and overheating while pushing hard for more Sub2’s)
I felt because of the similarities in weather, it would allow me to provide accurate comparison data between no oil cooler/intercooler and with oil cooler/intercooler.
Optimistically, I set out for my first session of the day. The weather was very windy, and the air temps were in the high 60’s for that first session. Two laps in and I glanced over at my LogR screen to check the ECT’s. I had to do a double take!!! The ECT’s were already in the 220-degree range after only 2 laps with air temps in the mid 60’s.
It was at that point I realized my worst fear was a reality. I had blocked too much airflow to the radiator by adding the larger/thicker intercooler. And obviously, putting an oil cooler directly in front of the radiator was not the smartest idea.
These issues were all things that had been discussed on the forums and why it was said that the HPD cars use the OEM intercooler. Because of this, in the back of my mind I somewhat expected to still have overheating issues despite the installation of the oil cooler and intercooler. Remember too, I have a 20/21 FK8 which has the LKAS sensor in the wheel well where all side mount oil coolers are normally mounted.
For the rest of my day, even though temperatures peeked in the high 70’s my car still struggled and struggled bad with overheating. My car experienced some of the hottest ECT’s that I have ever seen before. Even higher than when I was at SMMR when the air temps were 95 degrees.
I still ran each session for the rest of the day and continued pushing the car hard, even though the ECT’s were well into the 245+ range. This probably isn’t the best thing for the car, but honestly, when I’m on track I only see red, and I’m only concerned with going as fast as possible. Therefore, I pamper the car so much in every other aspect; Oil changes every one thousand miles, trans fluid changed after 4-5 track days, wash/wax it weekly, and continue to dump all my retirement into it.
I am also excited to report that I managed to snag a 3rd place finish in street mod class that day. Only losing, just barley, to two s2000’s.
I am also EXTREMELY excited to report that the intercooler was able to keep the IAT below 105 degrees ALL DAY LONG. This was another reason why I didn’t take much mercy on the car when on track. In my head, I felt like if at least two of the three critical engine elements were not overheating then it wasn’t that bad (or as bad as it was when all three would be overheating)
The three elements are: Air, Water, Oil. Before I had the Intercooler and oil cooler, all three of those elements would be way overheating when I would be on track.
Now , with the Intercooler the IAT’s are really low (as seen by LogR screen) and I’m only assuming, the oil temps are substantially lower because of the addition of the oil cooler (no actual data yet, I will eventually install an oil temp gauge though). This only leaves water (ECT), which was clearly way hot!
Earlier in the post I mentioned that the IAT’s while at a red light compared to WOT on track were hugely different and I will now elaborate on this. As you sit in traffic and the IAT’s begin to creep to the 140’s there is no load on the engine and there isn’t a need for a good combustion as the engine just idles along. This only becomes a problem if you are trying to apply lots of load to the engine and expect 100% from it. The hotter air is means it is not as dense which means there are less oxygen molecules per square inch. This creates a less powerful combustion and ultimately reduces engine power.
When it comes to a modern engine’s performance, keeping your intake air temperature (IAT) as low as possible is crucial for maximum engine output.
Today’s modern sensors are more sophisticated and sensitive to whatever data they are recording, and a modern fuel injected powerplant’s intake air temperature sensor is no exception. These sensors can detect temperature changes in tenths of a degree, sending this data back to the vehicle’s ECU where it’s processed, and changes made to the vehicle’s air/fuel mixture and ignition timing to prevent engine knock/detonation from occurring. If the ECU calculates data from the engine, the ignition timing needs to be reduced by even one degree because of the intake air temperature, that can reduce engine output by about 15-20 horsepower.
If IATs continue to climb, the ECU will further reduce engine timing along with increasing/richening the air/fuel mixture to keep detonation at bay. This leads to further reduced performance and fuel consumption as the mixture is richened with more fuel. If this continues for extended periods, you can end up with fuel-fouled spark plugs, carbon buildup inside the combustion chambers (which increases the risk of detonation) and other long-term performance reducing issues.
So now let’s go back to my last track day at Buttonwillow (in March), when I still had my OEM intercooler and the IAT’s wouldn’t get below 140 degrees no matter what. Keep in mind, we are talking two-minute lap after two-minute lap where the IAT’s were consistently in the 140’s. The OEM intercooler just isn’t capable of shedding that amount of heat… I just again want to stress that everyone’s IAT’s are really high, 120-140+ depending on the weather, when sitting still in traffic or slowly moving along. This doesn’t matter if you have an aftermarket or OEM intercooler, if there isn’t air passing through it, there won’t be cooling. What aftermarket intercoolers do that makes them better than OEM is shed heat much quicker due to their larger size, better materials or construction and fin design. I’m not here to say that my 27Won intercooler is the best, and quite honestly, I’m sure all aftermarket intercoolers provide around about the same reduction in heat. It’s the design of the 27Won and their focus on airflow resistance (or lack thereof) that really drew me towards their intercooler.
To try and sum this up as much as possible. Yes, my new intercooler worked as it should. Consistently shedding nearly 40 degrees off my IAT’s compared to the OEM one in similar weather conditions. The IAT’s never got above 105 degrees lap after lap for 20-minute sessions at a time. To me, this is a huge win in itself. Sure, my intercooler, like most of them on the market, does block a large part of the radiator and potentially allow for less cool air to get to the radiator. However, the advantage is my IAT’s are down nearly 40 degrees, which I feel is much better for my engine. Even in traffic when the IAT’s get up to the 140’s, once I start moving it doesn’t take long to get them back down to 105–110-degree range.
Yes, my oil cooler is not in the most optimal location. It is blocking pretty much all the airflow to the upper half of the radiator and probably is causing the overheating that I’m experiencing. I feel that also because I have the acuity hoses and they reverse the flow, the water is now flowing from the bottom of the radiator to the top. Since the oil cooler is on the top half maybe that extremely hot air coming from the oil cooler isn’t helping as it is now reheating the water in the rad before it exits the radiator and goes back into the engine. Maybe I should reinstall the OEM hoses? The major advantage of the oil cooler that I noticed was… After driving hard on track without the oil cooler I would notice there was about a half quart of oil that would be consumed (throughout a full track day). Now however, with the oil cooler installed, I don’t burn a single ounce of oil. This to me seems like the oil cooler is doing its job by keeping oil temps well within their operating range.
I will eventually get an oil temp gauge and I will be able to get some accurate readings to see what the oil temps really are. But until then I can only speculate and use what little results and data I have. Regardless, the oil cooler gives me peace of mind. Just knowing that the oil is getting cooled, and I have also increased the overall oil capacity, really lowers my concern levels.
The overall issue is that my ECT’s are still getting way to high. When they get too high, the OEM ecu does correct and reduce the engines power output. Running 220-230+ ECT’s is not good and is going to eventually lead to head gasket issues, there is no way around that. I just need to figure out a better way to cool the engine coolant.
As a last-ditch effort, I do have a J’s grille that I can install. I’m still not sure if I want to go that route just yet because I’m still wary about cutting the small plastic bumper support that is behind the “H” emblem. I did have one other thing I had thought of only after returning home from my last event. Hear me out… The hot air from the engine bay needs somewhere to go otherwise it just heat soaks the whole engine bay. Therefore, I got a hood, to help vent that air out. But what if that wasn’t enough? What if I removed the aluminum undertray when I do track events? Removing this would allow much more air to flow out of the engine bay area and therefore would allow more air to easily flow into the engine bay through the grille and radiator. This is only a thought at the moment, and I do feel like I will give this a try whenever I make it back out on track.
BONUS INFO! Before any one of you internet know it all’s says one word about PWR/C&R track radiator… Let me just tell you this. At my most recent track event (April 16th, 2022) there was a fellow there that did have a C&R/PWR track radiator and he was overheating too. That’s right, unbelievably, he was getting the same ECT’s that I was getting (245+), and he had what the internet claims to be the cure all for FK8 overheating issues. WRONG! Same overheating I was having. He had a tune, catless downpipe, front pipe, exhaust, intercooler, acuity hoses and lastly the PWR/C&R track radiator. The only thing he didn’t have was a hood. He was still using an OEM hood. Also, he was slightly quicker than me too (about one full second) This seems to align with my overall thesis: fast people overheat, there is no remedy or solution.
This other FK8 owner and I also discussed other theories we had that contributed to our cars overheating Achilles heel. He mentioned a good point: the FK8 trans generates a ton of heat. So much so, that Honda acknowledges it enough to install a trans fluid cooler on the FK8 from the factory. Again, the FK8’s engine bay is so jammed packed with things that generate heat and there aren’t sufficient enough ways to expel that heat. This means there will always be some sort of overheating issues, unless drastic measures are taken… Methanol injection, E85 tunes, major body modifications, or V mounting coolers.
I know this was a lengthy one, but I really wanted to dive deep into the cooling issues and myths out there about our chassis. These are the main points you should take home form this article.
- If you aren’t overheating, then you aren’t fast. That’s totally OK and I never want to make anyone feel bad for not being fast. As long as you are out on track enjoying the hell out of your car that’s all that matters. But just don’t go onto Facebook pages or forums stating that you track your FK8, and it doesn’t overheat.
- Remember that your OEM temp gauge will be at the same level all the way until the car reaches above 220+ degrees. From there it will start to rise incrementally until it pegs on the H and goes into limp mode. So just because your dash temp gauge isn’t rising above normal, that doesn’t mean you aren’t technically overheating. The car has already begun to pull timing and reduce power many degrees earlier.
- Just because your car doesn’t go into limp mode also doesn’t mean your car isn’t overheating. I see a lot of owners talk about how “my car didn’t overheat all day because it never went into limp mode” IT’S OVERHEATING
- Intercoolers help drastically and really should have been one of my first modifications before hitting the track. Unfortunately, I fell victim to internet hearsay and was led by morons to believe otherwise.
In my opinion anything above 210 degrees Fahrenheit in any Honda is overheating or at least is starting to approach unsettling temps. I wish our cars were able to go, turn hot lap after hot lap, until our tires wore out much like most can do in their N/A cars. This will just never be the case for all of us FK8 owners, or at least with stock body and without crazy amounts of race car modifications. It’s an unfortunate downside to this car that I really wish there was a cure for. As of late though, I have really just begun to accept it. Maybe one day there will be some sort of magical solution. For now, though, we are just left only running two hot laps at a time before a full cool down one is necessary.
Please don’t take any of this the wrong way or interpret it into me being a hater. I love my car and will defend it until the end of time. It truly is an amazing chassis that can deliver mind-blowing levels of grip and produce the biggest smiles you’ll ever see on someone’s face.
I’m eight track days in with this car and I will continue trying to come up with a solution to my overheating woes. As of now it doesn’t seem like there is a light at the end of the tunnel and I’m pretty much left with only doing track events in sub sixty-degree weather. I guess all that means is I will have to bring the EG out of retirement so I can start doing events in spring, summer, and early fall.
Thank you as always for reading my blog. I hope that this information helps you in your automotive adventure and you can use my experiences to help guide you. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or think you have the solution to the FK8’s overheating issues… Please! Email me Billy@Functiontheory.com, DM me on Instagram @Functiontheory, or simply comment below and I will get back to you.