On April 16th, 2022, the day Ever debuted his refreshed S2000 on track, during a lapse of judgment he accidently money shifted his S2000. This over rev caused the inevitable piston to valve contact that is oh so common on “interference” motors, rendering his motor useless.
This of course was a huge blow and almost took all the wind out of his S2000 project sails. Fortunately, though, Ever had a “Plan B”. That’s right… as many of the veteran blog readers will know, in early 2020 Ever purchased a JDM K24 from H-motors that he was planning on swapping into his (now sold) MRS.
In classic Ever fashion, he had acquired just about every part he needed for the MRS swap and then suddenly lost interest and shifted his focus toward getting a S2000. And when I say he had almost everything… HE. HAD. ALMOST. EVERYTHING! K24, RBC manifold, SI transmission, Shifter, Mount kit, Clutch, Flywheel, Header, Oil pan, Type S oil pump kit, Wiring, Trac Tuff swirl pot, and even AEM infinity. He was only missing a throttle body, and axles.
Obviously, most of that stuff is useless for a RWD K24 swap. But what is not useless is the K24, the Type S and the AEM infinity. Meanwhile the rest of the stuff can be sold off and that money can be used to purchase RWD swap parts.
In this post we are documenting the Engine prep:
- Type S oil pump conversion/install
- K20 oil pan
- Clockwise motion oil pan baffle
- Drag Cartel DIC (drop in cams)
- Fluidampr harmonic balancer
We are still awaiting the ASMotorpsorts swap kit/package to arrive so we can get cracking on the swap.
If you are interested in reading about the S2000 build thus far. Click the link below to get yourself all caught up.
When you get a K24 swap, there are a few things that you should do before dropping it in your car. Whether you are swapping it into a FWD or RWD platform, the most important upgrade you can make is converting to the Type S oil pump. The Type S oil pump is designed to handle higher revs better and will not cause oil cavitation when you are revving out the engine, like the OEM K24 oil pump does.
Regardless of FWD/RWD platform. It is also a good Idea to ditch the OEM 25-degree VTC and upgrade to one that allows for a higher degree of VTC adjustability. The go to is usually just the (K20A) 50-degree VTC. While this is an easy OEM solution, it not really the best option for a K24. This is because if you were to use all 50 degrees of VTC on a stock K24, you could end up slapping pistons into valves. Now, when you get a tune done to your K24 swap and you are running a 50-degree VTC, the tuner can set the parameters to limit the amount of advance, so VTC won’t go above 45 degrees. Most reputable tuners know that you cannot safely use all 50 degrees so they will set it this way. 45 degrees is the number considered “safe” for stock K24 swaps.
I’m sure at least one of you knows someone that is using all 50 degrees and they are smokin fools at the street races. But if you are like us and you want to build a reliable engine that you can beat on for years and years. Do yourself a favor and make sure you are not using all 50 degrees… OR, do like Ever did, and order a “modified ” VTC from Drag Cartel. They offer them in multiple variants ranging from 30-45 degrees. Ever purchased the 45-degree limited one. This way, no matter who tunes it, or what issues arise… He will be able to rest easy knowing that he won’t encounter any piston to valve contact.
The next thing is to upgrade the intake manifold. If you are staying FWD then you can get away with just doing RBC/RRC intake manifolds. But if you are doing the swap into a RWD platform there are a few different options to choose from. You can get an adapter plate to retro fit the OEM F20c intake manifold, you can run a Skunk2 ultra manifold (because the plenum is reversible) or you can get a RWD swap specific one. K -Miata makes a great manifold that is 100% bolt on and is said to handle quite a lot of power. That is the one we have chosen to go with, but unfortunately it is out of stock (so we won’t be installing that in today’s blog)
Ever decided to pick up some cams too since we were already going to have the engine apart. This is not necessary, but classic Ever always must overdo everything
I highly recommend sourcing a complete Type S oil pump conversion KIT. This will ensure you have all parts necessary to complete the conversion. There a few different sized bolts that you will need, a new oil pump chain, chain guide, windage tray, and some other small things. So it is best you just buy a complete kit. There a many sites that offer them. Just search for “K24 Type S oil pump kit”. Keep in mind though, not all kits are created equal, so make sure you don’t just get the cheapest one.
After picking up the K24 from storage, we got it mounted to an engine stand and started the process by draining the oil. Remember that most engine warehouses will leave the oil in the engine. So, to save yourself from a huge mess, drain the oil first!
Next thing that needs to be done is to remove the crankshaft pulley. This can be very difficult because the crank pulley bolt is usually torqued somewhere north of 175 lb./ft. And after the journey across the ocean and getting blasted with salty sea air, usually it’s pretty stuck on. I recommend using some penetrating oil on the crank pulley bolt before trying to loosen it. We used the trusty ‘ol 1/2-inch impact (which probably isn’t the best thing) and it took us about 30 seconds worth of ugga duggas to crack it lose. DO NOT EVER use the impact tool to install the crack pulley bolt. Use a torque wrench to correctly torque it to its required specs.
Next, the valve cover needs to be removed.
Loosen the VTC solenoid bolt.
There is also a sneaky bolt in there too that holds the timing chain cover on. Make sure you remove that also.
Then remove the rest of the timing chain cover bolts.
Pull the VTC solenoid out and let it bleed oil.
Make sure you remove all the bolts, there are some tricky ones that might be hidden. Just take your time to ensure all of them are removed. If you are like us and haven’t removed the oil pan yet, make sure you remove the X3 bolts that go through the oil pan into the timing chain cover.
You can now begin to pry the timing chain cover off. But! only pry in the areas recommended by Honda.
This is what it will look like with the timing chain cover removed. Notice the X3 bolt holes in the oil pan that must be removed.
From here you are going to rotate the engine until the TCT (timing chain tensioner) is fully compressed. Then insert a pin into the TCT to lock it in place. This way, when you remove it, it will not fully extend. If it fully extends you won’t be able to reinstall it and you will have to place it in a vise to compress it, then insert a pin to lock it in place. Below I am using the OEM Honda TCT pin, it is thicker than a regular push pin.
Once the TCT is fully compressed and locked in place. You can now unbolt the x2 10mm bolts that hold it on and place it off to the side. At this point you can either choose to install a new TCT or reuse the TCT that came on the engine. For us, we decided to just reuse the TCT that came on the car. TCT’s will usually start to wear out around 100k miles and most JDM swaps have less than 50k miles on them anyways. Plus, When the TCT starts to go out or fail, it will usually make a very specific unmistakable noise. If his motor even makes it that long or he still has the car when that eventually happens, we are prepared to change it out for a new one. And because this engine will be in an S2000, the TCT will be super easy to replace, because there will be nothing blocking the timing chain cover, like there would be in a FWD chassis.
At this point you can also loosen the timing chain guides to allow for removal of the timing chain. Again, you can choose to either reuse the timing chain that came with the motor or buy a new one. We are reusing the OEM one.
Next, we flip over the motor and remove the oil pan. Note, even if you are not doing cams, you will still need to remove the timing chain to get the old oil pump off.
Pry gently, I begged Ever to not use a screwdriver and recommended using a plastic interior panel tool to pry. But Ever wanted to be funny and spite me, so he used the largest most aggressive screwdriver I had.
It is very possible to scar, mare, or damage the mating surface where to pan meets the block. If you damage it bad enough, you could potentially have an oil leak that will never stop.
Here is what the gross, ugly, inefficient, OEM K24 oil pump looks like.
Next, remove the oil pump chain tensioner. You will be reusing this, so set it off to the side somewhere safe and clean.
Then remove the oil pump chain guide. You will NOT be reusing this. Your Type S conversion kit will come with a different shaped one needed to accommodate the new Type S oil pump.
You are now ready to unbolt the oil pump.
Once all bolts have been removed, the oil pump will need a slight amount of persuasion to get lose. Once loosened, you will lift it off at an angle to allow removal of the oil pump chain. You will NOT be reusing the oil pump chain. Again, the Kit will come supplied with the correct length one.
With the pump removed you can see that there are two windage tray pieces. Both will need to be removed and thrown away. The Type S conversion kit will come with the correct windage tray to pair with the new oil pump.
This is what it looks like with both windage tray pieces removed.
Next is one of the most important steps in the Type S oil pump conversion. Below there is an oil passage plug that needs to be removed and replaced with the bolt that is included with the Type S oil pump conversion kit.
To remove it, I suggest inserting a screw and tightening. Once it cinches tight, you will then start to wiggle it back and forth while simultaneously puling outward on the screw.
Be patient, the screw will most likely pop off and you’ll then have to rethread it in a few times. Don’t worry about damaging the plug, once removed, you’ll no longer use it.
Now you can see the hole the plug came out of.
And, now the plug is in focus.
The Type S oil pump is not a direct bolt on. There is some cutting and grinding that needs to be done to get it to fit. Some kits offer to precut the new pump, and this option will allow for a true 100% bolt on conversion. However, we opted to cut it ourselves. And when I say we, I really mean me. I thought it would be better content for the blog to show the process of clearancing the oil pump.
Start off by lining up the pump where it needs to sit. Then make marks where you need to cut.
Plug all openings and securely place in a vise. We also used a towel to ensure there was no damage to the pump when clamped in the vise.
Ever has a nifty small Milwaukee right angle die grinder that was perfect for this delicate job.
This is roughly what it should look like. Now, clean it all off with a heaping amount of brake cleaner and take it back to the engine to test fit. Remember, its best to measure twice and cut once.
We were then able to use a file to remove what little bit more we needed to allow for it to properly fit. Make sure to clean the oil pump again, thoroughly with brake cleaner to ensure no metal shavings will get into to your engine.
Below you can see the amount needed to be removed. This allows for clearance of the two bolts and raised rectangular piece.
After you are satisfied with the oil pump fitment, remove it and set aside. It is now time to install the crucial bolt that will permanently block the oil passage that you previously removed the plug from. You will take the bolt that comes supplied in the kit, put a fair amount of Hondabond on it and then thread it into the hole. If you forget to do this part, you will not have any oil pressure when you start your car and you will most likely wreck your engine.
It is also worth noting that some K24’s have a threaded hole and the bolt will simply thread in. Other K24’s however, will not have a threaded hole and you will need to tap the hole to allow the bolt the securely thread in. Our K24 came threaded, so we can’t show you the taping process.
Then, get a plastic razor blade and scrape all the old Hondabond from the oil pan mating surface. Do not damage this area by using a metal instrument to scrape.
Once you are certain you have removed all large chunks of old Hondabond. Use some scotchbrite to then go over and remove even the most minute amounts of Hondabond. This will ensure a good seal is made when the pan is installed.
Be careful when using the scotchbrite to not allow the debris to fall in the engine.
Next you can install the new windage tray with the supplied hardware. You’ll also notice, the bolt you used to plug that oil passage fits snugly in a hole that comes from factory in the windage tray.
You can now permanently install the oil pump. Because the dowels that are on the pump make it difficult to just “slip in.” We used a dead blow hammer to softly tap it in. You will also need to at this point install the supplied new oil pump chain because you will need the oil pump to be at slight angle to allow for the chain to go on.
Here is what it should now look like.
Now, attach the new supplied chain guide. You will need to reuse the old hex head bolts though.
Then reinstall the old tensioner.
Your Type S oil pump conversion is now complete.
Below, we are just test fitting the clockwise motion oil pan baffle. This specific oil pan baffle will only work with K20 cast aluminum pans. There are other cheaper options out there for the steel pans, but the clockwise motion baffle is a pretty darn good one. Plus, I had a few extra K20 pans laying around anyways.
The clockwise motion baffle requires no welding or bolting in. It simply sits in and when the pan is bolted in there is no way for the baffle to move around.
But before we put the pan on, we are going to install the cams. We do it this way just in case we drop anything in the engine we won’t have to remove the oil pan again.
Since we are putting in new cams, we will need to transfer over the cam gears and cam pulse plates to the new cams. To make things easier, we are going to loosen the cam gears and cam pulse plates while the cams are still bolted in. The cam shafts also have a “nut” built into them that allows you to put an open-end wrench on. This will allow you to stop the cam shaft from rotating as you try to loosen the cam gears and cam pulse plates.
Both intake and exhaust cams have the ability to use a wrench. Also, the new cams have this feature too.
Once you have loosened both intake and exhaust cam gear bolts, and both cam pulse plate bolts. You can begin to loosen the cam caps.
Now that all the bolts are lose, you can remove the cam caps. But pay close attention to the order at which they got. Each cam cap has a number and there is a specific orientation of which they need to be reinstalled.
Now the cams are ready to be removed.
Here you can see we have taken the cam pulse plate off the old cam (left) and installed it on the new cam (right). Do not worrying about torquing it all down now. You will do that after you have reinstalled the cam caps.
So we didn’t get confused, we did one cam at a time.
Make sure to use assembly lube when installing the new cams.
It is also worth noting that the new cams come with specific valve lash adjustment specs. Before you start the engine, you should definitely do a valve adjustment and ensure the lash is set to the new cam specs. We will be doing this when we get closer to starting the car.
and the new Drag Cartel modified 45-degree VTC is installed.
And the exhaust cam is now installed too.
Cam caps go back on. Remember to make sure the numbers on each cam cap are in order and that the arrows all point to the front of the engine (towards the cam gears)
Make sure to get all the bolts started by hand.
You can then switch to a “T” handle and spin them the rest of the way in. You want to make sure this is done evenly and, in a crisscross pattern. You are not torquing them down yet just getting them all seated properly.
Once they have all been snugged down, you can begin to torque them down in a crisscross pattern.
- 8mm bolts get torqued to 16 lb./ft.
- 6mm bolts get torqued to 8.7 lb./ft.
Next, we are putting the timing chain back on. There are a lot of marks that need to be lined up to ensure the mechanical timing is correct. I have done in depth detail write up on this before, so I’m not going to do it now. If you’re interested in how to set the mechanical timing correctly, click the link below.
Hopefully you read the article above and understand how to install the timing chain. Below, I will show you some pictures of the timing marks and how they line up just in case you didn’t click the link.
You can see how the timing chain has darker links. those will be the marks at which will line up with the cam gear dots.
Below you can see how there are lines on each cam gear that that point inward towards each other. Those must be lined up perfectly. This indicates the top end is at TDC.
As can be read in the link above about installing the timing chain, there is also a mark on the crankshaft gear that will line up with a mark on the block that will indicate the bottom end is TDC also.
Now we torque down the cam gears and cam pulse plates.
- Exhaust cam gear is 51 lb./ft.
- VTC (intake) cam gear is 83 lb./ft.
- Cam pulse plates are 42 lb./ft.
Have a friend help you hold the cams with a wrench while you torque everything to spec.
Make sure to properly reinstall the crank pulse plate.
You can now reinstall the timing chain cover. Make sure you clean all the old Hondabond of it both the timing chain cover and the engine. Now apply new Hondabond and reinstall. After you squeeze out the Hondabond you only have a few minutes before it starts to cure. Make sure you don’t wait too long before reinstalling the timing chain cover.
All the timing chain cover bolts are to be torqued to 8.7 lb/ft.
Make sure to tighten in a crisscross pattern.
Slap on the crank pulley and torque it to 181 lb./ft.
Ever did accidently order the K20 crank pulley. The K20 crank pulley is a slightly smaller diameter than the k24 crank pulley. We are hoping that we can still use it and just use a k20 belt, but we won’t know for sure until we start assembling all the accessories on the engine. Alternator, water pump, ac/ps delete.
Next part we are going to install is this Trac Tuff baffle that is designed specifically for RWD k swap applications. This baffle stops the oil from pooling up in the timing chain area under heavy braking.
To install it you must tap out a hole on the oil pump.
Yes, we probably should have done this when the oil pump was not installed. But classic Ever remembered he had it in storage after we had already put the engine back together.
We took a lot of caution to ensure there would be no metal that fell into the engine.
This is how the baffle plate bolts to the oil pump.
That black bolt is the reason we had to tap out he hole on the oil pump.
This baffle even has neato trapped doors.
It’s now finally time to install the oil pan. Below you can see again how the clockwise motion baffle fits on the pan.
spread the Hondabond all around the pan.
Rigby seems pretty concerned about Ever’s application process.
Use your finger to evenly spread it around.
Because we are not reusing the steel pan that came on the K24 originally. We needed to order longer oil pan bolts that are meant for the K20 with an aluminum pan. The bolts are longer because the aluminum pan is thicker. Below you can see the part number. We ordered 20 just to be safe. If you are going to just reuse the steel pan you would obviously use the same bolts that you took off the pan originally and there would then be no need to buy longer bolts.
On the K24 there will be two studs for the oil pan that are threaded into the block. Those will need to be removed and replaced with the longer bolts. I’m using a stud remover socket.
Once the studs are removed, you can now install the oil pan. The way the clockwise motion baffle works, it would allow us to install the pan with the engine upside down. We had to install it this way from the bottom.
Get all bolts started. And snug them all down in a crisscross pattern.
I thought it would be super funny to give Ever the longest extension I own. He didn’t think it was too funny.
Once you have the bolts all snugged down, you can flip the engine back over and more ergonomically tighten the oil pan bolts to spec.
Oil pan bolts get torqued to 8.7 lb./ft. Starting from the center of the pan work your way outwards in a crisscross pattern. Remember, be quick to install after you apply the Hondabond. You only have 5 minutes before it will start to cure, and you risk not getting a proper seal.
So here it is in all it’s boring glory. It’s unfortunate that everything we did is internal and gets covered. But hopefully coming up in Part 2, we will be adding some cool flashy stuff to it.
We are still planning on replacing all valve cover gaskets before this thing hits the track again. For now though, we will wait until the engine is in and we have worked out all the kinks in the swap.
Ever blowing his motor on his cars first outing was definitely bummer and really made him want to just throw in the towel. Please send positive vibes his way to help see him through this difficult time. Motivation is at an all time low for him, and that’s really saying something when it comes to Ever. Sometimes I feel like he is only continuing the S2000 project because it’s great blog content and he wants me to be successful.
But then sometimes when we are working on it, I see the sparkle in his eye, and you know deep down he’s super excited. Even though he never shows any sort of emotion, I know that the magic of VTEC keeps the dream alive.
As of now we are still waiting on parts to arrive so I’m not sure if we will be able to have K24 content next week or not. It is also now starting to get HOT in Las Vegas, and this makes working in the garage a lot less desirable. So, If K24 content slows, don’t assume that he has given up. I will personally make sure he finishes this epic swap, even if it takes us all summer.
This post was more of an overview and less of a step-by-step DIY. I really do encourage you to check out the link above that goes in detail about timing chain installs, and how to properly set mechanical timing on a K series.
Hopefully you were still able to learn some things from the pictures. And hopefully you’re as excited about a K24 S2000 as I am. This thing is going to RIP! As I mentioned earlier, he does have AEM infinity, and we do plan on getting this fully tuned before he hits the track. We are also thinking about getting RDX injectors since he has added cams and plans on tuning it. But we will cross all those bridges when we get there.
As always, Thank you so much for reading the blog. I hope you enjoy our projects and the write ups, as much as I like doing them. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, hate, positivity, or just want to say hi. Please don’t hesitate to reach out. Email: Billy@Functiontheory.com, Instagram: @Functiontheory, or simply comment below, I WILL GET BACK TO YOU! I’d love to hear from you, It really helps keep me motivated to keep pumping out in depth content.