Lowering a BRZ/GR86 (Swift Springs)

So as promised in my previous post, we are doing quite a few things to Marlon’s car (within reason) to help make it a bit more fun to drive around town “spiritedly,” but not make it so harsh to drive that it becomes another garage queen only to be utilized on track days.

(if you don’t know about the previous post, click the link below)

BRZ Track Prep

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Lowering it and adding wider wheels wrapped with a slightly stickier tire were obviously must-do modifications to fully bring out this chassis potential.

After much convincing, “we” made the conscious decision to forgo the installation of coilovers as it was crucial for me to preserve a comfortable ride quality. I wanted Marlon to have a car that his wife could ride in and not be wishing she wasn’t. After all, his shocks were brand new, and he might as well get the full life out of them before jumping to coilovers (at least that’s my approach with my FK8). Coilovers tend to create a rather stiff driving experience, which can be excessive for a vehicle that is predominantly situated in workplace parking lots rather than being utilized for competitive racing at the track. Besides, (as many of you know) Marlon already has a track-oriented S2000. He doesn’t need two cars that only get driven on track days.

(Foreshadowing) As you’ll read below…We should have just installed coilovers from the get go.

Lowering a car without upgrading the wheels is like wearing a suit with sneakers—it simply doesn’t mesh. Knowing this, Marlon didn’t hesitate to select the perfect set of wheels and tires, ensuring the car’s new stance would be showcased in all its glory once the springs were installed. However, because the car was primarily parked outside at work, we wanted to go with a more restrained, less recognizable-looking wheel that was subtle yet still offered benefits like being lighter, wider, and forged.

Marlon ultimately decided on some Apex wheels. Apex wheels have been quickly gaining popularity and are starting to become as common as Titan 7s within the track community. Companies like Titan 7, Apex, Superseed, Lightspeed, and EVS all (allegedly) either use a Chinese manufacturer to make economically forged wheels based on their in-house designs or have a Chinese supplier provide them with forged blanks or a rough wheel that they finish off by CNC(ing) here in North America, usually coming in at about half the price of big brands like Volk Racing, Yokohama, and BBS Japan, yet still claiming to be just as strong and only a hair heavier. Basically, all the “China forged” wheels start life as a billet blank of aluminum, then go through three stages of forging, usually involving a 10,000-ton press, and are machined on a CNC to whatever the final design is; this is commonly referred to as machine forging. While companies like Volk Racing, Yokohama, BBS Japan (aka Washi Beam), and Taneisya, use the mold-form forging process.

The term “allegedly” is a nod to the mysterious processes by which companies like Titan 7, Apex, and others transform a simple block of 6061 billet aluminum into an beautiful wheel. Despite scouring the vastness of the the world wide web, I’m unable to ascertain each and every step in the process. These companies tease us with snippets, revealing just enough: a 6061 billet block is subjected to a colossal pressure of 10,000 tons, and like a magic act, out comes a stunning wheel. Yet, the true artistry that turns the rough forging into a polished wheel remains their guarded secret.

It’s quite clear that there are details they’re not disclosing—those crucial “trade secrets.” What’s more intriguing is the recent surge of companies within the last 5-8 years, manufacturing “forged” wheels at prices that significantly undercut those of traditional mold-formed forged wheels. This begs the question: What innovations or corners are being cut to allow for such a marked reduction in cost? Regardless, the artisans behind the scenes masterfully maintain the allure and integrity of their wheels, leaving us to marvel at the results.

Now, I don’t have anything negative to say about these brands, as I too use them as well. I also don’t doubt that they are all substantially stronger than a cast or flow-formed wheel. It’s just important that the new generation of car enthusiasts understands that these are not equal to the forefathers of forging; Volk Racing, BBS Japan, Yokohama, and Regamasters (from the russian era) etc. However, they are a very close second, especially for the price.

Here’s a more in depth definition of Machine Forging:

Machine forging is a manufacturing process used to create metal components with a high-strength-to-weight ratio, desirable for wheels in automotive applications. The process begins with a billet—or a thick cylindrical block—of aluminum.

The billet is then placed under a press and is compressed into a basic wheel shape; this process is known as forging and can involve immense pressure from a press, often up to 10,000 tons. Machine Forged wheels are stronger and lighter than cast wheels due to the alignment of the metal’s grain structure that occurs during the stamping (forging) process, the lack of porosity that is common among cast and flow-formed wheels, and their ability to utilize less material because the grain structuring of the metal is better.

After the initial forging, the basic wheel shape is then precision machined using CNC machinery, which carves out the detailed design. The advantages of machine forging over other methods, such as cast or flow-formed, include greater design flexibility, reduced weight, and improved strength of the finished product.

Economically forged wheels from “Chinese” manufacturers/suppliers are growing in popularity within the car community, offering a middle-ground alternative between premium brands and lower-quality options. They provide a balance of performance and affordability, which makes them a compelling choice for the weekend racer who wants the benefits of a forged wheel without the high price tag of top-tier brands.

Here’s more about the Mold-Form Forging process:

Mold form forging is a wheel manufacturing process where metal is shaped by heating and then applying pressure in a mold to form the desired wheel design. The metal used for mold form forging is typically heated to a high temperature to make it malleable before it’s placed in a die or mold, where it’s subjected to immense pressure, often many thousands of tons. This pressure forms the wheel into the intricate shapes required by the design.

One of the main advantages of this technique is its ability to create wheels with a tight grain molecular structure that follows the design of the wheel, and zero porosity, which contributes to superior strength and durability. Mold-form forged wheels are known for their high performance and are often used in professional racing due to their reduced weight and increased strength compared to traditional cast/flow-formed, and machine-forged wheels.

Premium wheel manufacturers such as BBS Japan and Volk Racing, Yokohama, and Taneisya often use mold form forging to produce their high-end wheels. This process, while more expensive, results in a stronger, lighter wheel which can significantly improve the handling and performance of a car.

While economically forged wheels from Chinese manufacturers using machine forging provide a great balance of performance and affordability, mold-form forged wheels are still regarded as the superior choice for those who require the utmost quality and performance from their wheels.

“China Forged” wheels are slowly becoming the definitive choice for racers seeking both reliability and affordability. These robust wheels are engineered to withstand the demands of track racing without compromising your budget. The growing popularity of “China Forged” is no surprise, given their remarkable track record of success. Countless racers have embraced them, and rightfully so, for their unmatched value and performance.

Now, let’s delve into why Marlon opted for Apex wheels. “China Forged” wheels have built a reputation for delivering both strength and lightness without the hefty price tag. They’ve carved out a notable position on the market, earning respect over time. Now, there’s a shift in perception that allows for choices beyond the premium ‘hot boi’ brands. The discerning buyer recognizes that they can obtain wheels that rival these top-tier brands in durability and weight.

Brands like Apex and Titan 7 stand apart from the ‘knockoff’ label. Although their designs are inspired by the big names, they incorporate unique interpretations that distinguish their products. While some purists might argue that these wheels are mere imitations, they are unable to ignore the innovative processes that brands like Apex use. They are reshaping the industry’s future, challenging the idea that quality wheels must come with a $4,000+ price tag. The market is evolving, and these wheels are at the forefront of this transformation, offering performance and style without the traditional cost barrier.

Despite their current lack of mainstream recognition, this discreet charm is precisely what safeguards these gems from the prying eyes of potential thieves. In making a strategic choice, Marlon has opted for a less popular design from Apex’s collection to help even further deter any thieves. However, make no mistake, its subtlety in no way compromises the quality; this model retains the same lightweight durability that the brand is known for and also comes in a hair cheaper due to its lack of popularity compared to other Apex styles.

Marlon has chosen SM10RS in an 18×9 +42 offset.

To be honest, there isn’t anything wrong with going “China forged.” Heck, I’ve been using a set of Titan 7s as a track wheel on my FK8 for the last three years, and after multiple “Sub-2” laps at Buttonwillow, the wheels are still holding up fine.

For the price, there really isn’t much to argue about… they are strong, light, and beautiful.

And they also include unique features like laser-etched logos and wheel specs.

For tires, instead of choosing the highly sought-after Falken RT660 or the latest Bridgestone RE71RS—both acclaimed “200tw” tires—I steered Marlon towards the more reasonable choice: the RT615K+. Bearing the same “200tw” label, they indisputably provide a longer lifespan than the aforementioned options, all while maintaining a budget-friendly price point. This practical choice ensures Marlon enjoys extended durability without compromising on quality. If Marlon were chasing tenths on the track, he would, of course, opt for the first-mentioned tires, but because he’s just chasing pavement, there is no need for all that grip and shortened lifespan.

Marlon, bless his heart, thought he was on the brink of finding that “perfect” fitment. He spent what felt like an eternity—or at least the time it takes to watch the extended Lord of the Rings trilogy—deciphering the mystical world of wheel sizes for his slightly lowered BRZ. Picture him, chin in hand, thinking deeply (or just trying to look like he knew what he was doing).

After much deliberation, he landed on the magic numbers: 18×9 +42 with a 245/40 tire. But oh, reader, let’s pour one out for Marlon, who clearly needed to trade more hours on the ‘Gram for real research. Spoiler alert: it’s never just “a few hours of research” when it comes to the perfect fitment, especially with this chassis.

Below is the Part number for the Swift Spec R lowering springs he chose to go with. Interesting fact… Marlon’s car is a 2023 and the Springs for 2013-2020 are the same.

When you decide to upgrade from OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) wheels to aftermarket ones, there’s an important consideration that shouldn’t be overlooked — the compatibility of your lug nuts. OEM wheels typically use a specific style of lug nut known as a “ball seat,” which is designed to fit snugly in the rounded indentations of the wheels. However, aftermarket wheels often require a different style of lug nut, one with a conical seat. These lug nuts have a taper, usually 60 degrees, which ensures a proper fit to the conical shape of the aftermarket wheel holes.

You must always switch to aftermarket lug nuts that are designed for “conical seat” wheels when installing non-OEM wheels. Using the wrong type of lug nut can lead to insecure wheel mounting and could be dangerous. The correct lug nut not only ensures the wheel is bolted down securely but also that the pressure is distributed evenly around the wheel stud.

I know what you’re thinking now… I’ve given you the green light to get titanium lug nuts since you now have to buy new lug nuts anyway… Nope! I sure haven’t. You see, offering certain benefits such as strength and lightness, can present issues when used with steel wheel studs. This is primarily due to the differing material properties of titanium and steel. It’s known scientifically as; Dissimilar Heat Expansion Rates: Titanium and steel have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Under varying thermal conditions (as experienced in rigorous driving), these materials will expand and contract at different rates. This can cause a loss of clamping force as materials expand and contract, potentially leading to the wheels becoming loose.

In short, if you use titanium lug nuts on track, you’re going to need to retorque them after just about every session. But Billy, why do credible “track-focused” companies sell Ti lug nuts? In my honest opinion, I think it’s to attract the big-spending ballers who are just building a “track-inspired” car. Sure, you could argue the fact that you are lowering your rotational mass, which then allows the cars to accelerate faster/brake better. But I believe it is such a small savings that in an enthusiast’s HPDE car, that small amount of savings won’t translate to better lap times. I guess hypothetically if you rarely drive the car and never take it on track, then Ti lug nuts might be okay. But why would you spend that money on a part that serves no purpose? Plus, even then, I would have trust issues and constantly be checking the torque on my lug nuts. Just take my advice, please don’t use Ti lug nuts; you can find better ways to spend 350+ bucks.

For those who are not only switching wheels for aesthetic reasons but also performance—like the car enthusiasts who plan on tracking their vehicles—investing in higher-quality lug nuts is a wise decision. Lug nuts made from Chromoly, a type of alloy steel known for its strength and durability, are excellent for this purpose. These high-strength lug nuts can withstand the increased stress experienced during high-speed driving and hard cornering that’s typical on the racetrack.

Throughout my automotive experiences, I have consistently chosen steel lug nuts for their superior reliability and durability, specifically avoiding aluminum or titanium alternatives.

As you can see below, Marlon has gone with EVS chromoly lug nuts. These are a great choice and our buddy Pat has been using them for years on his S2000 without fail. Unfortunately, they aren’t locking which is a small downside, but then again that’s why we went with the less recognizable Apex SM10RS wheels.

Finally, it’s important to acknowledge that the BRZ/86, with its MacPherson front strut design, does not inherently gain additional negative camber when the car’s ride height is reduce. Therefore, to address this and enhance the car’s handling characteristics, we are fitting the vehicle with camber bolts.

Camber bolts, are a type of adjustable bolt used in the suspension systems of cars to alter the camber angle of the wheels. Camber is the angle of the wheel in relation to the vertical axis of the car when viewed from the front or rear. It influences tire contact with the road, handling, and tire wear.

There are generally three types of camber:

• Negative Camber: The tops of the wheels tilt inward toward the car’s center. This is often desirable for better grip during cornering as it increases tire contact patch when the car leans.
• Positive Camber: The tops of the wheels tilt away from the car’s center. This can be useful for stability in certain situations, such as heavy-duty or agricultural vehicles.
• Neutral Camber: The wheels are perfectly vertical to the road surface, resulting in even tire wear under normal driving conditions.

Camber bolts are used when the vehicle’s suspension does not have built-in adjustment to achieve the desired camber angle. These bolts replace one of the original bolts on the suspension components (such as the strut to the knuckle) and feature an off-center lobe between the bolt head and the threading. When this lobe is turned, it moves the suspension component in or out, thus adjusting the camber.

Camber bolts are particularly useful for:

• Correcting alignment issues
• Customizing the suspension for particular handling characteristics when there is no factory adjustment.
• Compensating for changes in ride height due to lowering springs or other modifications

It is important to have a proper wheel alignment performed after installing camber bolts to ensure that the wheels are set to the manufacturer’s specifications or the performance preferences of the driver. Lastly, camber bolts should not be used on cars that see frequent or heavy track use because they have been known to “slip” out of adjustments under rigorous conditions. On cars that frequent the track, it’s best to use coilovers with camber adjustability built into the top hat/camber plate, adjustable lower control arms, or offset camber ball joints.

However, in Marlon’s case of only doing a few track days a year, trying to keep the car as mild as possible, and still needing to improve his “driver mod,” the camber bolts will work just fine for him. (this logic should apply to most of you reading this too)

When discussing the handling characteristics of the BRZ/86 chassis, one must consider the intricacies of the chassis’ multi-link rear suspension system. This sophisticated design ensures a dynamic connection between the vehicle and the road; however, one key aspect to take into account is how the car’s alignment is affected by modifications, particularly when lowering the vehicle.

Because of its design, the BRZ/86 chassis will inherently acquire some degree of negative camber at the rear wheels as the car’s ride height decreases. Negative camber can be favorable in enhancing grip during cornering by ensuring a larger contact patch when the car is loaded laterally. However, this adjustment is not without its implications.

It’s crucial that the front camber is calibrated to complement the negative camber gained at the rear. Especially given the characteristic rear-wheel drive (RWD) platform of the BRZ/86, achieving a harmonious balance between the front and rear alignment is essential for predictable handling. If the rear wheels exhibit a higher degree of negative camber relative to the front, this introduces a variance in grip levels that can affect how the car behaves during corner exit.

In a practical scenario, when powering out of a turn, a RWD car with pronounced negative camber at the back and insufficient negative camber up front will tend to understeer, which some drivers refer to as the car “pushing” its front end towards the outside of the turn. Therefore, enthusiasts looking to modify the ride height of their BRZ/86 often employ adjustable suspension components such as camber plates (which usually are only available when upgrading to coilovers) and control arms that allow fine-tuning of the camber settings at both the front and rear of the car.

This level of customization ensures that the vehicle not only maintains its handling characteristics but also leverages the change in suspension geometry to potentially improve cornering performance. Appropriate modification and expert alignment can result in a vehicle that responds keenly to driver inputs, exhibiting a neutral balance, and is poised for spirited driving.

Here’s everything, all ready to go on the car!

Here is what the car looked like before. For me, it’s hard to believe that those stock wheels are 18’s! They look like 17’s!

After indulging in a meal at Roberto’s, Marlon and I captured “before” photos around 9 pm, kicking off our car project later than ideal. My first real endeavor into the BRZ/86 platform introduced a steep learning curve, dragging out what should have taken only a few hours into more than 6 hours. Coordinating our schedules amidst family responsibilities, kids, and work is challenging, often pushing our automotive adventures into late hours and early mornings. (as you’ll read below)

Despite these obstacles, our passion and enthusiasm for car modifications drive us. Each session is not just about the upgrades but also a valuable learning experience. The slow yet steady progress is a testament to our dedication to mastering the intricacies of this particular chassis, even as we navigate the complexities of our everyday lives. After all, blog content doesn’t create itself!

We begin as we always do by jacking up the front of the car first. On the BRZ there is a jacking point right at the front of the car (as you can see below)

Now place two jack stands to support the front of the car.

Now move to the rear and jack it up so the car is level.

The manual calls for the rear to be jacked up via the differential.

Once the car is level, you can place two more jack stands in the rear so the car is completely stable while you work on it.

Below is a diagram for reference. You can also see where your jack stands should be placed to properly support the car.

Then zap off those lug nuts. If you don’t have an impact gun then you should break all the lugs loose before you jack the car up. Fortunately, we have an impact gun.

And the rears as well.

Your car should now resemble what Marlon’s looks like. Both front and rear wheels removed and the hood popped.

We started at the front because the front struts are usually more difficult (well, on FF cars they can be). We began by removing the 12mm bolt securing the brake line to the strut and then using a flathead screwdriver to unclip the ABS sensor wire from the strut. The sensor can remain plugged in; it just needs to be unclipped from the strut since we are pulling that whole piece out.

Then remove the upper 17mm nut from the sway bar end link where it attaches to the strut.

Because Marlon’s car is brand-new, we can just zap off the nut with an impact. But on older cars, cars that have more miles, or live in wetter climates, you may need to use the 17mm combo wrench paired with a 6mm Allen key to prevent the end link from spinning as you try loosening the nut. It’s worth noting that with the nut removed, we weren’t able to remove the end link from the strut due to interference with the chassis.

Next, loosen the x2 19mm nuts that secure the knuckle to the strut. Remember to loosen the nut while holding the bolt head in a fixed position; this makes loosening them much easier. Read below for the reasoning. In the picture below, you can see how I’m using the combo wrench to hold the bolt head, and the socket wrench to do the loosening.

When servicing a vehicle, and particularly when dealing with suspension components like struts and knuckles, mechanics will often find it easier to hold the bolt head fixed and turn the nut rather than the other way around. Here are the reasons why loosening the nut can be easier than loosening the bolt head:

1. Load Distribution: The friction between the bolt head and the component can sometimes be greater than the friction of the threads under load. Thus, holding the bolt head fixed and turning the nut reduces the chance of the bolt turning in its housing, which could potentially damage the component or the bolt.
2. Access and Positioning: In many cases, the nut is more accessible than the bolt head, allowing for better leverage with a wrench or an impact gun.
3. Corrosion and Binding: The threads of a bolt can become corroded over time, making it more difficult to turn the bolt head. Since the nut is more exposed, it may be less seized than the bolt head, which is often countersunk or covered.
4. Torque Tension: Sometimes the bolt is installed with a locking compound or may have been over-torqued during installation, causing it to be extremely tight. Loosening the nut can be easier because once it breaks free, it turns more freely than the bolt, which remains stationary in the component.
5. Thread Direction and Friction: When turning the nut, it moves along the threads of the bolt, which can be lubricated to allow for easier motion. The bolt head, however, does not move along the threads and may have more resistance due to friction against the component it is securing.
6. Bolt Head Damage: The bolt head may be damaged or stripped, making it difficult to get a good grip with tools. The nut is less likely to be damaged in this way since it’s typically only engaged when being tightened or loosened.

The upper nut is removed.

Spinning off the lower nut.

Both upper and lower nuts removed, and now the bolts can be slid out.

With both bolts removed, the knuckle should now be able to detach from the strut. (Yes, I still have the ABS sensor clipped to the strut. Remember, this is my first time lowering one of these. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯)

Below you can see how we just barely couldn’t sneak the endlink stud out.

But once you remove the knuckle from the strut, you can then pull the strut outboard slightly, which will allow you the extra bit of clearance to sneak the end link out of the strut.

With the brake line bolt, unclipped ABS sensor, end link nut, and two bolts that secure the knuckle to the strut removed, there should be nothing else holding the strut in place except for the three 12mm nuts on top (inside the engine bay).

Now you can move up top and remove those X3 12mm nuts. Be careful though because as soon as you remove the last nut the whole strut will fall off the car. Be sure to either have a helper hold it or (if you’re doing it solo) make sure you hold on to the strut with one hand while you loosen with the other.

The strut assembly was completely removed. You can also see how we did, in fact, unclip the ABS sensor wire from the strut, but not before realizing it was still clipped to the strut as we tried removing it from the car. LOL.

This is what the strut will look like when it is removed.

To remove the spring, you will need to loosen the bolt that holds the strut top mount. But before you do this, you will need to use spring compressors to take the stored energy from the spring away from the strut mount. The spring has so much stored energy in it that removing it without compressing the spring can cause serious injury and/or collateral damage to surrounding cars/people/houses.

Below, the spring compressors attached to the spring, and have now effectively captured the spring’s energy, releasing the tension that would normally rest on the strut mount, allowing you to safely remove the strut mount. On the BRZ/86, due to the coil spacing of the spring, compressing the spring entirely is a challenge, but as you can see, I’ve managed to tighten down the spring compressors to their limits to accomplish this. The coil gap is exceptionally narrow, making it tricky to position the spring compressors (the type I’m using) at the topmost and bottommost coils where they would ideally go. It’s imperative to acknowledge the immense tension present in the spring compressors; they are as dangerous as a charged bomb. Careful handling in this state is paramount to your safety.

The ridiculously tight gaps in the wound coil spring created a nightmare scenario, far worse than what anyone could have foreseen. Clearly, this was one culprit behind the unbearable drag-out of the project, stealing hours into the wee morning. The act of finding the sweet spot for the compressor tangs, to ensure the pressure was even (not to mention safe), turned into an epic ordeal.

Next, you will need to employ the use of a specialty-style socket called a “pass-through” or “go-through” socket. I just picked this cheap one up from Harbor Freight because it will only be needed for four nuts (one on each strut) during this whole project, none of which require that much torque. The “pass-through” of it allows for an Allen key to prevent the shock shaft from rotating as you try to loosen the nut.

With the nut removed you can now remove the strut mount.

Then the coil spring isolator or “spring seat” can be pulled off with the spring.

Below you can see all the separate pieces.

Now with the compressors removed. *PRO TIP; Be careful when removing the compressors, make sure to loosen them evenly and precisely because there is still a lot of energy stored in that spring.

At this point, I should be showing you a picture of the new Swift spring reinstalled on the strut but for some reason, I don’t have any pictures of it. I can only assume it’s because this install was throwing just about every challenge it could at us and I tend to stop taking pictures when I’m getting frustrated.

• The first challenge that took a lot of time was tediously positioning the spring compressors on the spring to allow for adequate compression to relieve the tension off the strut mount so we could safely remove the bolt.
• Second, normally when you install a lowering spring, you don’t need to compress it to get the strut mount back on and the bolt started. This is because the new lowering spring usually has a shorter overall length. However, that was not the case with this install. So not only did I have to go through the tedious process of precisely positioning the spring compressor tangs for removal, but I had to do it all over again for the installation too, TWICE! (because both sides of the car)

It’s essential to distinguish between the two bolts that attach the knuckle to the strut. Take note that the bolt with a more robust, thicker shaft is designed for the upper hole of the strut/knuckle assembly, while the slimmer bolt is meant for the lower hole. The fit is specific: the thicker bolt will only accommodate the upper hole. A common mistake during reinstallation is to mix up the bolts—if you’re struggling with the lower hole, check to ensure you’ve selected the correct bolt for that position.

For clear guidance, I have added a picture of where the camber bolt goes in relation to the car’s suspension. Make sure to insert the camber bolt into the bottom hole.

Figure one: shows the orientation of how the small tab and cam lobe should align during installation.

Figure two: illustrates how if the large tab is pointing outward, the camber will be negative, and if the large tab is pointed inward, the camber will be positive. These are, of course, just the two extreme settings of either negative or positive. There is still adjustability to allow dialing in for even camber numbers on both sides. To make minute adjustments in camber, make sure the upper bolt is loosened, and the camber bolt is loosened, then place a wrench on the bolt side of the camber bolt and rotate to get the desired camber spec.

Unfortunately, I only have the below cell phone pictures of us using a rudimentary process to “dial” the camber bolts, ensuring we not only achieved maximum camber but also that both sides were as close to even as possible. Because, after all, what good is a track car without heaps of negative camber? Don’t panic; we weren’t foregoing the proper alignment. He was going to get a real alignment a few days later, but I just wanted to ensure that it was as close to even as possible before he left my house. It’s also worth noting that yes, when lowering a car, especially a McPherson strut one, the toe will be out of spec, and you will need to schedule an alignment ASAP, even if you didn’t mess with any camber settings. P.S. I also have the correct tool to measure and dial camber. Unfortunately, the wheel needs to be on to utilize it. (see picture of my tool below)

Ok anyway, I’m going to tell you a trick for how to achieve MAX negative camber without having to get coilovers. As per instructions, you are going to install the camber bolt in the lower strut/knuckle hole. Then you’re going to take the thinner lower bolt and install it in the upper hole (don’t even install the thicker bolt). Because the bolt has a thinner shaft, it will also allow for some movement in the upper hole, allowing you to get even more negative camber. If you’re not looking for MAX camber, then just reinstall the thicker shanked bolt in the upper hole (its original location).

Achieving MAX camber is done by:

• First, set the camber bolt to its maximum amount of negative camber (this is why we used the bubble level), and don’t fully torque the camber bolt yet.
• Second, make sure the thinner OEM strut/knuckle bolt is installed in the upper hole.
• Third, you can push inward on the upper part of the rotor, and you’ll notice the knuckle moves further inboard due to the slop in the upper hole from not using the thicker bolt.
• Fourth, keep pressure on the rotor and begin to snug the upper bolt to lock in that max camber. Torque the upper bolt to 114 lb/ft. and the camber bolt to 97 lb/ft.

Other torque specs for the front are:

• End link nut; 34 lb/ft
• Brake line hose; 24 lb/ft
• X3 strut mount bolts inside the engine bay; 17 lb/ft
• Single nut that holds the strut mount to the shock (the one that needed the pass-through socket); 41 lb/ft
• Reclip in the ABS sensor wire to the strut.

Let’s jump to the rear of the car now… The “easier” end of the car. Starting off, you’ll need to gain access to the upper strut mount bolts. This is easily done by removing the trunk mat, popping out some clips, and peeling away the interior panels on both sides of the car.

Below are the four clips on the passenger side. (there are also four on the driver’s side too)

Now we jump to the driver’s side, and you can see what I mean by “peeling” away the interior panel. It does not need to be completely removed; you can simply pop out the 4 clips per side to allow the panels to peel away.

Side note… Depending on the year/make/model you don’t even need to mess with the panels as you can access the upper strut bolts by simply removing the trunk mat. However, that was not the case for us.

With the upper 14mm strut mount nuts removed, we can now move to the underside of the car. You are going to need to remove the 14mm sway bar end link nut/bolt and the 17mm strut nut/bolt.

First start off by removing the 14mm nut/bolt that attaches the end link to the rear lateral link arm (rear lower control arm)

Then remove the 17mm nut/bolt that connects the strut to the rear lateral link arm.

Once you have loosened and removed both of those bolts, you should now be able to have a helper push downward (with conviction) on the brake rotor/rear knuckle assembly. This will take the pressure off the strut and allow you to grab it as high as possible and then pull it towards yourself, effectively “dislodging” it from the chassis and easily sliding it out.

Your strut should now be removed from the car. You can now utilize the spring compressor again as we did for the front to remove the energy stored in the strut mount. Again, you will also need to use a pass-through socket in conjunction with an Allen key to loosen the single upper strut mount nut.

The rear is much, MUCH easier than the front to get the spring compressors on and use. It only takes a small amount to compress the spring enough to remove all tension from the strut mount.

Viola!

Here it is all reassembled and ready to go back on. Well… Almost ready. As you can see, I forgot to reinstall the shock dust boot. ARRRRRGH! This is just another example of how these little hiccups dragged the night out into the wee hours of the morning. Yep, that meant I had to again remove the upper strut mount and then slide the dust boot on.

Here I am retightening the singular 17mm nut that secures the strut mount to the strut after reinstalling the dust boot.

Once you have made sure you have ALL the parts of the strut reassembled correctly, you can now slide the strut back into the chassis and loosely hand thread all the nuts/bolts back on. The X2 14mm nuts in the trunk, the 17mm strut bolt/nut, and lastly the 14mm end link bolt/nut.

Before the final torque is applied, it is important to make sure that you jack up whichever corner you are torquing so that the suspension is at ride height. Below is a list of reasons why this is important. **** It should be noted that our front end, featuring a MacPherson-style suspension, is exempt from this requirement due to its design. This design does not require the suspension to be preloaded before torquing.****

Torque specs for rear:

• X2 14mm top mount nuts to chassis. 22.4 LB/FT
• 17mm strut nut/bolt to lower control arm 89 LB/FT
• 14mm end link nut/bolt to lower control arm 33.2 LB/FT

When installing or adjusting most suspension components, it is crucial to tighten the bolts at ride height because the suspension components are under load in their natural operating position. At ride height, the weight of the vehicle compresses the suspension, setting it to the typical conditions it will experience while driving.

Tightening suspension bolts at ride height ensures that:

1. Bushings and Joints are in Neutral Position: The rubber or polyurethane bushings in suspension components are positioned in the way they will be when the vehicle is on the ground. This prevents unnecessary stress or torsion on the bushings when the vehicle is set down, which can lead to premature wear or failure.
2. Suspension Geometry is Accurate: Critical angles such as camber, caster, and toe are precisely set. Tightening components with the vehicle in the air can lead to inaccurate suspension geometry when the car is lowered back to the ground.
3. Ensures Proper Functioning: Certain suspension parts, like control arms or sway bars, function within a range based on where they naturally sit at ride height. Tightening them in the air could either limit their range or pre-load them, altering handling characteristics and potentially leading to a less comfortable ride or reduced performance.
4. Longevity of Components: Keeping bushings and joints in their neutral state while at rest ensures they are not unduly twisted or compressed when the vehicle is at rest, thus extending their usable life.
5. Avoids Binding and Stress: Incorrect loading of suspension parts can lead to binding, which can cause undue stress on components, leading to premature wear or even damage.

For these reasons, many mechanics and manufacturers recommend supporting the vehicle’s suspension at or simulating ride height (using a lift or jack stands) before final tightening of the suspension bolts. This method ensures the suspension is in a natural position, which will result in accurate alignment settings and longer-lasting components.

Close-up of those beautiful EVS chromoly lug nuts. Torqued to 88.5 LB/FT

Below is what it looked like back on the ground. Keep in mind that we haven’t even rolled the car back and forth yet; this is fresh off the jacks and on the floor, and it still needs to settle. We are exhausted (especially Marlon, who began his day clocking in for work 22 hours prior). It was also nearly 4:00 AM! WHAT A NIGHT.

Embarking on the journey of lowering this car for the first time was a road filled with discovery and learning. The extended duration it took wasn’t a reflection of a lack of mechanical skill; rather, it was an investment in mastering a new skill. As with any first attempt at a complex task (not that this one was complex), it’s about learning the intricacies and nuances, not just rushing through it.

It’s important to emphasize that the time invested will pay dividends in efficiency for future projects. Having navigated the process once, the acquired knowledge and hands-on experience have significantly enhanced my capabilities. I am now equipped with valuable insights that only come from direct involvement.

The next time I decide to take on the task of lowering a BRZ/86, there will be a stark contrast in time management. I can easily see completing another one in only about 2-2.5 hours tops! With each BRZ/86, the process will become more streamlined, showcasing the benefits of continuous improvement and practical experience.

Throughout this post, I’ve detailed a series of nuances we expertly navigated and mastered. Each challenge presented a unique learning opportunity, quite distinct from anything I’ve experienced with other cars I’ve worked on before. These intricacies have honed my expertise and expanded my professional skills—dare I say, making me an expert on this chassis?

Rest assured, every single part we touched remains pristine, completely unscathed. Not one bolt was compromised, no component suffered harm, and as a result, everything operates with the flawless precision of a brand-new car. Our diligence paid off; patience might have tested us at moments, yet maintaining composure and proceeding with deliberate care was our guiding principle—and it led to impeccable results…

Understanding some of the hurdles we previously mentioned in this post, let’s shift our focus to the most significant obstacle we faced that night. Interestingly enough, it wasn’t the installation process that presented the greatest challenge. Instead, we found ourselves confronting a rather unexpected issue: It was, in fact, Marlon’s aggressive choice of wheels and tires that brought us this intriguing fitment conundrum that I will now go through in excruciating detail in the hopes that you, the reader, may also endure some of the pain we faced while reinstalling the wheels expecting to conclude the install process.

Again, due to my lack of experience with this chassis and Marlon’s “few hours” of ‘gram surfing, we both clearly had no idea what the optimal sizing for a good wheel/tire setup on the BRZ/86 chassis was. Admittedly, I did tell Marlon that he needed AT LEAST 245 tires and if he got anything smaller I was going to call him a poser. I mean, for goodness’ sake, my daily driver has 245s on it!

If you’re interested in learning more about my daily, you can click the link here.

Let’s rewind to that epic evening, the one where we amassed enough man-hours to qualify for a full-time job at an auto shop, all while bestowing Marlon’s BRZ with a simple set of lowering springs. After successfully wrangling all four corners into submission, we turned to the “easy” task of reuniting the wheels with the car. Having just finished the install process on the rear springs, we slapped those rear wheels on so smoothly, that you’d think they were magnets finding a fridge. Though we were deliriously tired, we were high on the anticipation of what the car would now look like with all these new goodies installed. We laughed and smiled as we moved up to the front. We were both as giddy as schoolgirls dating Johnny Football Hero, as I went to snug down the lug nuts before lowering the car back to the ground. Unfortunately, our smiles and giddiness dried up quicker than Lake Mead because as I went to rotate the wheel, I noticed it was “stuck” and wouldn’t rotate. “Uh oh, something is not right,” I immediately thought to myself.

(to help make the rest of this story less boring, I will strategically place some current pictures of what Marlon’s car looks like after the springs had settled and he had gotten his alignment to help keep your attention)

Why was the wheel not rotating? Deep down, I had a sneaking suspicion… I had encountered this only once before on my daily drive of all cars, and it was because I was trying to fit those meaty 245s on it, LOL. My heart sank as I reached my hands behind the wheel only to confirm what I had been thinking… Yep, you, the reader, might have already guessed it. Because Marlon’s tire was so wide, being a 245, and we had maxed out the negative camber via the bolts where the knuckle connects to the strut, the tire was making contact with the spring perch part of the strut. As the lug nuts cinched the wheel down more and more, it became harder and harder to rotate until it couldn’t rotate anymore.

There was no way around it. If he drove like that, it would just wear through the brand-new tire and cause him to spin off the road and die. I didn’t want to be the person responsible for Marlon’s slow, painful death. So, off the wheel came. My first attempt to solve this was to simply undo my “hack” for MAX camber by removing the thinner bolt from the upper hole and reinstalling the proper thicker bolt that was supposed to be in the upper hole. By doing this, we would be getting slightly less negative camber, but at this point, it was our best option. Bing, bang, boom and we were ready to test fit again, this time with slightly less camber.

Nope, still rubs… and rubs hard. At this point being nearly 3 am, rather than fiddle-fart around with adjusting the camber bolts and having to take the wheel back on and off each time to see if we gained enough clearance from minutely adjusting the bolts, I just opted to remove the camber bolts altogether and put the stock lower bolt back in. That was the last hope; if the tire still rubbed, even slightly on the strut, we would have to swap the Apex wheels for the OEM ones just so he could get home.

Thankfully, removing the camber bolt and installing both OEM strut bolts back in their respective holes, granted us barely enough room… BARELY, I mean at this point we were using Marlon’s debit card to measure clearances between the tires and the spring perch of the strut. So that was it, around 6 hours after starting, manual spring compressor debacles, and umpteen times of having to remove the front wheels to make camber adjustments to allow Marlon’s meaty tires and aggressive wheel sizing to fit. I now felt confident enough for Marlon to make his way home. In the end, Marlon didn’t even need to order those camber bolts because they aren’t even currently installed on his car. The camber bolts weren’t utilized because after getting a laser-guided alignment, there simply wasn’t enough room to increase the negative camber due to the small amount of clearance between the tire and strut.

The unfortunate downside to not running the camber bolts is Marlon’s alignment specs… (see below)

After getting a professional alignment, the front has .2* of negative camber, which, let’s face it, is pretty much zero, especially with a MacPherson-style strut. Then the rear has negative 2.2* camber, which would be perfect if the front had negative 2.5-3.0*.

Keep in mind that a multi-link style suspension is designed to gain negative camber naturally as the suspension is compressed or as the car is lowered. This is why a multi-link rear suspension makes for such a great handling car and is precisely the reason for the pronounced negative camber at the rear. It’s important to note that the vehicle comes without any built-in rear or front camber adjustability, which is exactly why aftermarket rear lateral links (lower control arms) are such a popular modification for this car. They provide a much-needed avenue for introducing rear camber adjustment, which is necessary for most enthusiasts after lowering their car who are wanting to decrease the amount of negative camber to help preserve their tires, or even increase the amount of negative camber to either assist in fitting really aggressive wheel/tire sizes or in getting an even more aggressive track spec alignment.

For the rear of Marlon’s, even if we had a way to adjust the camber, we wouldn’t be able to dial out some of the negative camber because the aggressive wheel/tire combo already slightly rubs on medium-large dips/bumps in the road. If anything, we need rear camber adjustability to gain more negative camber to prevent the rubbing he is experiencing. But adding more rear negative camber when the front has basically zero is asinine.

Remember too, that in order to get Marlon’s aggressive wheel/tire to fit, we removed the camber bolts, thus preventing any sort of camber adjustment in the front, which is why he pretty much has zero degrees of negative camber in the front. Again, this is not an optimal alignment spec, especially for one who is going to be driving more spiritedly than normal.

Obviously, having too much negative rear camber and pretty much zero camber in the front is going to hurt the car’s performance, causing all sorts of understeer. IMO, a good “street” spec alignment would be somewhere in the ballpark of negative 1.8-2.2* in the rear and negative 2.2-2.8* in the front. This would perfectly balance tire preservation and performance.

If you were looking for a good place to start for a track spec alignment I would start with negative 3-3.5 degrees in front and negative 2.5-3.0 degrees in the rear.

Marlon’s current alignment specifications are completely unacceptable. Associating with someone whose car has been modified for improved handling, yet lacks even a single degree of negative front camber, is out of the question. The car stands as a testament to a “track-inspired” design, yet it conspicuously fails to deliver the performance enhancements you would anticipate from such modifications. It’s quite disappointing, to say the least.

Since that unforgettable night, Marlon and I have embarked on a definitive mission to master the intricacies of wheel and tire fitment for this chassis. We’ve now dedicated countless hours to research, dissecting every detail to understand our missteps, find a solution, and ensure it never happens again.

What we have found is: (please keep in mind these statements are very general and there are many variables that go into fitment)

• A 235 tire is pretty much as wide as you can go if you’re keeping the offset between +30 to +42, the wheel width 9 inches or below, and you want to run more than negative 1.0* in the front and not use a Coilover. A 235 tire will also allow you to dial out some negative camber in the rear (if you purchase aftermarket lateral links with adjustability), thus allowing you to get a more balanced camber bias front and rear.
• If you want to run anything wider than a 235 tire, a lot of front camber, and/or a 9.5-inch wheel, you really should just invest in coilovers from the get-go. Not only are coilovers thinner in diameter than the OEM spring/strut setup, but they also usually have camber adjustability via a camber plate, which allows the whole shock/strut setup to move inboard as you increase the negative camber. This means that when increasing negative camber, the whole shock/strut/knuckle assembly moves as one, and the tire never gets any closer to the shock/strut. As opposed to adjusting the camber via a camber bolt which essentially makes the knuckle the pivot point, thus moving the wheel inboard without simultaneously moving the strut inboard, which is what caused our rubbing issues.

Take a look at this phone shot from that night—or rather, early morning when he returned home. Fucking sick, right? But let’s be real, with virtually no front camber to speak of, he’s merely kidding himself. It may look fierce, but it’s clear that substance needs to match style.

With the knowledge we currently possess regarding fitment on the BRZ/86 chassis, I would approach the situation with a different strategy from the start. Rather than recommending Marlon just get lowering springs, I’d go straight for the coilovers. Going this route from the start would have simplified the fitment process and provided the ability to achieve a more respectable amount of negative camber necessary to harmonize with the rear negative camber that we inherently acquired from lowering the car.

I can only hope that Marlon understands my intentions were good when I suggested the lowering springs for his car. The last thing I want is for him to pursue a small claims court case in an effort to recoup the expenses he’s now incurred from trying to make his car functional with lowering springs. I truly believed it would enhance his car’s performance and retain some comfort for daily driving, and it pains me to think that my advice might have led to any regrettable outcomes and financial disaster from us trying to make the lowering spring approach work. (as you’ll read about in upcoming blog posts)

Another reason you might want to go with coilovers right away is that any vehicle equipped with a MacPherson-style strut, whether at the front, the rear, or both, will require the same procedure to remove the spring using spring compressors as depicted in the post above once the complete strut assembly is removed from the car. Opting for coilovers right away will allow you to bypass all the fuss of messing around with spring compressors while trying to remove the old spring and install the new one on the strut. Ultimately this will streamline the install process and make it so even a novice mechanic can do it.

In conclusion, despite the challenges encountered during this installation, I’m grateful for Marlon’s trust in my abilities to work on his car. His confidence empowers me to broaden my expertise with this new chassis, which is a valuable opportunity for growth and development as an enthusiast and gives me the hands-on knowledge I need to provide my readers with.

Since discovering our rubbing issue that night (early morning), I’ve stayed true to my preference for using lowering springs and even ventured into trying some less conventional methods to increase negative camber. But, as I’ll share in an upcoming blog post, despite my earnest efforts to make the lowering springs work, Marlon’s car just isn’t achieving the desirable amount of negative front camber we’re aiming for. Because of this, I fully recommend foregoing lowering springs and going straight to coilovers with camber adjustability.

In hindsight, the decision to recommend lowering springs to Marlon wasn’t my brightest moment and is a mistake I deeply regret. While it did produce engaging blog content and a deeper understanding of the vehicle’s chassis, it ultimately proved to be a misguided endeavor due to a lack of experience on my part. A wiser approach would have been the immediate installation of coilovers. Such a choice would have not only streamlined the process, leading to a single conclusive blog post about improving the car’s handling but would also have showcased a more profound expertise. Additionally, it would have spared Marlon the unnecessary expenditures on alignments and supplementary components. Moreover, his vehicle’s performance would have benefited from an optimal setup right from the beginning.

Stay tuned, because come hell or high water, we are going to find a way to get Marlon the negative camber his car needs. As always, if you have any questions, concerns, hate, or just want to thank me for these long-winded blog posts, please don’t hesitate to reach out via email Billy@Functiontheory.com, Instagram @Functiontheory, or simply comment below on this post, and I will get back to you.