About eight months ago, Marlon and I lowered his BRZ using Swift Springs. Since then, he’s noticed some minor rubbing in the rear during suspension compression over larger bumps. This issue is primarily due to his aggressive wheel and tire setup: 18×9 +42 with 245/40 tires and not enough rear negative camber.
As many of you know (the avid blog readers), since lowering his car, we’ve been focusing on increasing the amount of negative front camber. This adjustment has been a priority because it’s arguably more crucial than the occasional slight rubbing he was experiencing in the rear.
To avoid getting into the details and repeating everything we have already said in the past two blog posts (I don’t want to piss off the fervent readers). If you’re new here, you can read about the front-end camber issues we faced, which were caused by tire-to-strut rubbing due to his aggressive wheel and tire setup, by clicking the links below (if you’re interested). If you’re only here for the Rear LCA install How-To and review because you care nothing about expanding your BRZ/86 knowledge, then please, just skip the three links below.
And our first attempt to remedy the front camber (or lack thereof) situation.
ANNNNDD Finally, the solution to our front camber woes.
First, let me clarify that the slight rubbing issues Marlon was experiencing in the rear were due to the outside shoulder of the tire making slight contact with the plastic splash shield at the rearmost top part of the wheel arch. Typically, this isn’t a major concern and probably wouldn’t lead to any significant wear or damage over time—aside from potentially wearing down a small portion of the plastic splash shield, which is mostly cosmetic.
Nevertheless, since Marlon’s car is essentially brand new, there’s no reason to tolerate any rubbing issues, especially when a straightforward solution like adjustable rear lower control arms is available.
The BRZ/86/FRS platform features a MacPherson strut suspension up front and a multi-link system at the rear. This design imbalance results in minimal negative camber gain in the front when lowering the car, while the rear can acquire 2+ degrees or more of negative camber depending on how low you go. This is due to the inherent characteristics of the multi-link suspension. Whether using springs or coilovers, lowering the car further exacerbates this rear camber issue the lower you go, with the front remaining relatively unchanged from its factory setting. That is why we were first chasing more negative front camber before moving around to the rear.
A multi-link suspension system gains negative camber when lowered due to the geometric changes in the suspension’s linkage angles. Here’s a breakdown of why this happens:
- Linkage Geometry: In a multi-link suspension, several control arms and links work together to control the wheel’s motion. When the vehicle is lowered, the angles of these control arms change, which can cause the top of the wheel to tilt inward relative to the bottom. This results in increased negative camber.
- Roll Center and Suspension Geometry: Lowering the car changes the suspension’s roll center and affects the camber curve. The suspension was designed to provide specific camber angles at a given ride height, so lowering it alters these angles, often leading to more negative camber.
- Suspension Design: Many multi-link suspensions are designed with a certain amount of camber gain built into the system. When the car is lowered, or the suspension is loaded in a turn, this camber gain becomes more pronounced, causing the wheel to adopt a more negative camber angle thus increasing the overall grip you have.
In summary, lowering a car with a multi-link suspension system affects the angles and geometry of the suspension components, resulting in increased negative camber. This effect is inherent to the design and function of the suspension system.
But what if you want more negative camber in the rear, or oddly enough, maybe you want less to help preserve tire life on your daily driver. Well, unfortunately, you can’t directly adjust any camber settings (front or rear) on these cars from the factory. Arguably, your camber will change ever so slightly by adjusting the toe or shifting around the subframes. But if you’re looking to DIAL IN your rear camber, whether it be to increase or decrease it, you will need to install some sort of adjustable rear lower control arm (this is specific to the BRZ/GR86 chassis and is not a blanket statement for all makes and models out there).
Behold below, the beauty of the Verus Engineering Rear Lower Control Arms.
Minimal assembly is required, involving threading the spherical bearings into the control arm. This is a straightforward process and should not deter you in any way from choosing these arms.
In fact, these arms come with EVERYTHING you need to install them on your car. And as you can see, they truly are a thing of beauty.
These control arms are available in two styles: A spherical 3-piece High Strength PTFE Line Rod Ends inboard mount for maximum performance (this is what Marlon got), or a polyurethane inboard mount for reduced noise, vibration, and harshness, making them suitable for people who are allergic to NVH.
Precision-engineered from 7000 series aluminum using CNC machining for superior strength-to-weight ratio. Designed through rigorous FEA, bench testing, and real-world validation, these components are ideal for both street and track applications
7000 series aluminum is superior for automotive applications due to its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio. This makes it ideal for components where weight reduction is crucial without compromising performance. Key reasons for its superiority include:
- High Tensile Strength: 7000 series aluminum alloys, especially when heat-treated, offer tensile strengths comparable to many steels, making them highly resistant to deformation under stress.
- Lightweight: Compared to steel, 7000 series aluminum is significantly lighter, reducing overall vehicle weight and improving fuel efficiency.
- Fatigue Resistance: This alloy is well-suited for applications that involve repeated loading and unloading, such as suspension components.
- Durability: Its strength and toughness make it resistant to wear and tear, ensuring long-lasting performance.
- Corrosion Resistance: While not as corrosion-resistant as some other aluminum alloys, 7000 series aluminum can be treated or coated to enhance its resistance to corrosion.
These properties make 7000 series aluminum a popular choice for components like suspension arms, control arms, and other structural elements in high-performance vehicles.
These are the lightest aftermarket lower control arms available (as claimed by Verus at the time this article was written in September 2024), weighing in at 2 pounds and 10 ounces per side. They are nearly a pound lighter than OEM units.
Let’s begin the installation process. First off, I just want to say that this has been the easiest modification we have installed on the car to date. It quite literally should take you no more than an hour to complete, from jacking the car up in the air to lowering it back on the ground. This is not specific just to these arms; I’m sure all other rear LCAs are just as easy to install.
I would honestly give this install process a 2/10 on the difficulty scale. As you see below as we go through the process, it’s truly that simple. If you’re a novice DIYer, just do one side at a time, leaving the other side stock so you can reference it if you need reassurance on how things go back together.
Start by jacking up the rear of the car using the rear differential as a jacking point, as indicated in the Subaru manual. Once the car is sufficiently elevated, position jack stands directly in front of the rear wheels on the double-thick pinch seam of the chassis
Once the car is raised and securely supported by jack stands, you can remove the rear wheels.
The picture below is what it should now look like.
We will only be documenting the driver-side (left-side) install process. Just apply all the same steps to the right side there is no difference other than everything being mirrored.
To remove the rear lower control arm you will need to loosen X4 bolts. You will need both a Combo Wrench and socket (or two separate combo/ratcheting wrenches). Basically, what I’m saying is that you will need a tool to hold the bolt to prevent it from spinning as you loosen the nut.
Three are seen below:
- The far left is the 17mm that secures the knuckle to the lower control arm.
- The center one is the 17mm that secures the strut to the lower control arm.
- The far right is the 14mm that secures the sway bar end link to the lower control arm.
And the fourth one is all the way to the right just next to the exhaust pipe. This is a 17mm that secures the lower control arm to the subframe.
Boom, this is what it will look like with the arm removed. Everything can just hang; there will be no additional stress on any components because the knuckle is still connected via three other mounting locations.
Now that you have the OEM lower control arm off the car, you can now set the Verus one to the factory arm length just to get the alignment as close as possible so you can at least drive your car to the alignment shop.
I don’t care how exactly you measure this, you MUST get an alignment after completing the installation.
Below you can see how I have used two different bolts to try and line up both arms so their lengths are closely replicated.
Once you’re satisfied with the overall length of the new arm, remove the bolts used to line them up, cinch down the lock nuts (2 per arm) to ensure the arm length doesn’t change during installation, and lastly, install the X2 black misalignment spacers. If you’re using a spherical bearing type LCA, don’t forget this step. It’s unlikely that you’ll miss this step because there would be excessive slop in the arm where it mounts to the subframe, which would be a clear indication of an error during reassembly. However, it’s still worth mentioning, especially if this is someone’s first time installing an aftermarket part.
To prevent damaging the threads and causing a catastrophic failure, it’s essential to have the same amount of thread showing on both the rod end and the threaded adjuster. If you adjust one more than the other to achieve your desired arm length, the threads may strip/rip out due to insufficient engagement.
Proper thread engagement refers to the length or depth at which the threads of a bolt or screw are engaged in the corresponding threads of a nut or tapped hole. Ensuring proper thread engagement is crucial for the integrity and strength of the fastening. Here are the key points to consider for proper thread engagement:
- Depth of Engagement: The general rule of thumb for proper thread engagement is to have engagement depth equal to 1 to 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt or screw for steel fasteners. For aluminum or other softer materials, deeper engagement might be necessary, typically around 1.5 times the diameter.
- Full Thread Engagement: Ensure that the entire length of the bolt or screw is fully threaded and that the threads are in good condition. Partial engagement or damaged threads can significantly weaken the joint.
- Consistent Length: When adjusting components, make sure both ends of the threaded fastener have approximately the same length of engagement. This ensures that stress is evenly distributed across the threads.
- Thread Condition: Threads should be clean and free from dirt, rust, or damage. Damaged threads can lead to cross-threading, stripping, or breaking under load.
Ensuring proper thread engagement helps to maintain the strength, safety, and longevity of the assembled components.
This will all make much more sense to you when you are actually at this step in the process with your own arms. Remember also that the larger threaded nut is a reverse thread, so it’s lefty tighty, righty loosey as opposed to the traditional lefty loosey, righty tighty rule that we all recite frequently when working on our cars.
Voila! The arm simply bolts right back on. Just make sure not to fully tighten any of the bolts until all of them are in place and the suspension is at ride height (more on this below)
And my goodness does it look fucking sick.
To finish the installation, you’ll need to torque all the bolts. However, since the knuckle, strut, and end link are all still rubber bushings, you’ll first need to jack up the suspension to its ride height. Once the suspension is at ride height, you can begin torquing down all the bolts.
When tightening suspension bolts, it’s essential to do so with the car at ride height, and here’s why:
- Prevents Bushing Preload: Suspension components, particularly those with rubber bushings, are designed to operate within a specific range of motion. Tightening the bolts with the suspension at full droop (extended) or fully compressed positions places undue stress on the bushings, leading to premature wear and failure. By tightening them at ride height, the bushings are in their neutral position.
- Ensures Proper Alignment: Tightening bolts at ride height ensures that the suspension geometry is correctly set, maintaining the intended alignment settings. Misalignment can cause uneven tire wear, poor handling, and increased stress on suspension components.
- Reduces NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness): Properly loaded bushings ensure that the car’s ride quality remains as designed. Incorrectly torqued bolts can lead to increased NVH, making the ride uncomfortable.
- Safety and Performance: Ensuring that suspension components are torqued correctly at the appropriate height ensures maximum safety and performance. It prevents unexpected behavior such as unpredictable handling characteristics, which could be dangerous.
In summary, to maintain the integrity and functionality of the suspension, enhance ride quality, and ensure many miles of life, it’s best practice to tighten suspension bolts with the car at ride height. I generally jack up the suspension until that side of the car begins to slightly lift off the jack stand, and then I fully tighten the suspension bolts.
To keep Marlon’s car in pristine, factory condition and avoid any signs of modification, I’ve taken great care to protect the suspension. I used a hockey puck as additional padding between the metal jack and the suspension. This level of attention highlights my commitment to top-notch workmanship. Always remember—don’t be a hack!
Regarding the bolt orientation, I prefer the clean look of the bolt heads facing toward the rear of the car. However, due to the drive shafts, I can’t adjust the orientation of the OEM bolt at the subframe. Trust me, I have a keen eye for detail. I chose to leave the OEM bolt at the subframe as it is rather than repositioning the other three bolts because the new bolts are more visible and the OEM one, even on the passenger side, is less conspicuous.
You will reuse the inboard bolt and nut from the OEM arm, which are both 17mm. However, the supplied hardware is slightly different in size from the OEM parts. The two larger bolts are 16mm, and the two larger nuts are 18mm. The single smaller bolt is 15mm, and the single smaller nut is also 15mm. The larger bolts are used for the knuckle and damper mounting points, while the smaller bolts are for the anti-roll bar.”
The three M12 (larger) nuts/bolts should be torqued to 59 lb/ft.
The singular M10 bolt for the end link should be torqued to 28 lb/ft.
GOOD LORD! These things are SUUUUUPER SICK.
Real quick I just want to go over why we ended up choosing to go with the Verus LCA’s over the many other arms currently on the market. First I will go over the many options available, and then I will explain why we decided on the Verus ones.
The SPL LCA arguably has more track-oriented performance advantages compared to other arms on the market. It enables not only camber adjustment but also allows for fine-tuning motion ratios by adjusting the lower strut mount. This versatility easily allows you to dial in your car for specific tracks by effectively changing the suspension’s characteristics. Furthermore, the LCA also provides multiple end link mounting points, allowing you to optimize sway bar rates without the need for an aftermarket sway bar, all while utilizing a PTFE FK bearing.
However, there has been growing concern within the track community about the potential for SPL arms to break. These reports aren’t just rumors; they’re based on firsthand experiences from reputable sources. SPL is aware of these issues and has acknowledged them. While I’m uncertain if a redesign is in the works, the risk was simply too great for us, especially given the number of well-documented incidents and potential consequences. Plus they also use 6061 series aluminium which isn’t necessarily a deal breaker as this is still a very strong grade of aluminum… it’s just not 7000 series.
The Cusco LCA: This is probably the most common one that you see and while there aren’t many (if any) complaints about this particular LCA, it just lacks the refined look achieved by many other brands on the market. Plus, the slotted washers for the different strut mounting locations of specific chassis is a bit strange and, dare I say, look a bit cheap? I’m sure they work just fine, but being that the LCAs are easily visible from anyone driving behind you, it’s nice to have some cool bling to show off. And in this case, the “Cusco Blue” isn’t doing you any good when trying to set yourself apart from every other build out there. While the Cusco arms offer solid performance and quality, their steel construction adds weight. In the world of racing, reducing unsprung weight is crucial. Although they may not have the aesthetic appeal of CNC’d aluminum arms, the Cusco arms do provide a good balance of performance and affordability.
SPC does make an aftermarket arm that allows for camber adjustability, but it is made from the same stamped-style steel as the OEM arm. The SPC LCA is really aimed at the consumer looking for a cheap way to adjust camber and that’s it! The camber adjustment comes from a “cam bolt,” which isn’t the most reliable way to adjust camber, especially if you’re a devoted track enthusiast. Most likely the “cam bolt” is going to “self-adjust” from increased lateral forces experienced from high-performance driving.
Whiteline also makes two steel versions. One that is stamped steel like the OEM one and allows for camber adjustment by way of a “cam bolt” much like the SPC. However, unlike SPC, Whiteline also offers a heavy-duty one. This one is also made from steel but does allow for camber to be adjusted via a threaded rod end like Verus, SPL, Cusco, Wisefab, Parts Shop Max, etc. Unfortunately, both Whiteline models are aimed at the price-conscious consumer and they lack sex appeal. Again, neither the SPC nor the Whiteline are going to deliver maximum performance and reliability on track primarily due to the materials used to produce them and the market they are aiming to appeal to.
Voodoo13 LCA’s are a nice top-tier arm made of “high strength” aluminum (whatever that means). I wish they specified which aluminum grade they used, but since they don’t, I’m willing to bet they don’t use 7000 series. However, these arms do allow for motion ratio and sway bar rate adjustability as well as camber.
While Voodoo13 isn’t a prominent brand in the road racing community, they offer quality products and excellent customer support. Their angle kits, widely used in professional-level drift cars, demonstrate their capabilities. Plus, all of their stuff is made right here in the good ol’ U.S.A. However, these things look like they weigh a ton, and for the price, you could get much lighter ones.
Parts Shop Max: Where do I even start… Back in my drifting days, all the way back in 2009, Parts Shop Max was riding high on the cool factor because they sponsored Matt Powers, who was arguably the coolest drifter at the time—both in skill and swagger he just brought a whole new dynamic to the scene. This was also during the “BIG ANGLE” craze in drifting, and Max was cranking out innovative parts that made maximum angle accessible and affordable across various chassis. Naturally, all of this put Parts Shop Max on the map, especially because their parts were reasonably priced making them attainable by even the poorest of street drift kids. They quickly gained a cult following.
But let’s not kid ourselves: their stuff is made in China to some vague “Japanese Spec,” whatever that means. To be fair, the quality isn’t terrible and can handle a fair bit of abuse. I can vouch for that from personal experience—I’ve had their coilovers, links, E-brake, and downpipe on my 240SX back when I was drifting.
However, there’s one major gripe: Dan Greenback. If you’ve had the misfortune of dealing with the notorious “dickhead Dan,” you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. Maybe he’s mellowed out now that the company has grown, but I vividly remember visiting their old shop off Camino Ruiz and Miralani Dr in San Diego (not the current Escondido location) to get some parts (after driving all the way down there from Las Vegas) and dealing with his insufferable attitude. And let’s not forget Nate from the “Mattley Crü,” the Matt Powers fan club that was all just a bunch of Matt Powers’ buddies who were all about ’80s hair metal (hence the name). Nate was there that day when ol’ dickhead Dan copped an attitude with us (Nate also worked at Part Shop Max) and I can still remember it to this day, 15+ years later… Nate apologized to us on behalf of dickhead Dan as he rang us up for the parts we had driven down there to purchase.
On top of all that, Parts Shop Max is still tagged with that drifting stigma. Personally, I think track enthusiasts and drifters have even more animosity toward each other than the Bloods and the Crips. That’s mainly because I loathe drifting and anything that has to do with it.
Another objective feature of these arms is that they will automatically lower your car by either 25mm or 40mm, depending on which mounting hole is used for installation. They are designed for enthusiasts looking to significantly lower their vehicles, ideal for those in the stance scene. They are also made from heavy/bulky steel and come in at a price that is comparable to the SPC and Whiteline stamped steel ones which should tell you everything you need to know about them.
Wisefab: If you’re considering Wisefab components, chances are you’re a serious enthusiast or even a professional. While Wisefab products offer exceptional quality and performance, they’re often overkill for casual or even avid enthusiasts.
One thing to note is that Wisefab doesn’t sell individual components like just rear lower control arms. To upgrade your suspension with their parts, you’ll typically need to purchase a complete drop knuckle kit, which includes a range of components and can be a significant investment.
RS-R LCAs are not the first brand to come to mind… errr, maybe not even the fourth or fifth, when looking to purchase rear lower control arms for your BRZ/86. While RS-R, as a company, has a lengthy history in the production of aftermarket performance parts, IMO nowadays they seem to be focusing more on entry-to-mid-level parts with unique features but limitations. Their arms offer two knuckle mounting positions to allow for height adjustment, three damper mounting locations, and two end link mounting locations, providing tunability. However, they are made of steel, only come with polyurethane bushings, and lack a visually appealing design.
While RS-R has a long history dating back to 1968, there are other options in the same price range offering superior quality. Although RS-R LCAs have not been reported to fail under extreme conditions, their lack of popularity amongst the community may make them less appealing for road and track racing.
GKTECH is another company that primarily deals in the drifting motorsport scene, known for its high-angle kits among many other aftermarket parts. Their control arms are crafted from TIG-welded chromoly steel and come equipped with premium 5/8″ Teflon-lined pillow ball rod ends. These arms offer features like motion ratio adjustment and sway bar end link adjustability. Notably, they can lower the car by 25mm when using the second mounting location on the knuckle side of the arm.
GKTECH is often seen as the more budget-friendly alternative to Wisefab, which isn’t necessarily a drawback. Their focus on cost-effectiveness means they might make compromises to offer lower prices. On the plus side, their products are CAD-designed and FEA-tested, ensuring precision and durability. The TIG welding used provides a cleaner, more aesthetically pleasing finish compared to MIG welding.
However, a potential downside (IMO) is their use of a singular pinch bolt-style clamp to secure the rod end, as opposed to a jam nut or locking nut. While both methods have their pros and cons, the jam nut or locking nut is often considered superior for its overall cleanliness and sleek appearance. Overall, the cost saving on these comes down to their use of steel over aluminum and their rod end choice (however, they do offer a 12-month warranty on the rod ends and a lifetime warranty on the arms for manufacture defects. Hitting a curb is not a manufacture defect.)
ISC: These arms offer a top-tier design at a more mid-range price point. They’re made from 6061 aluminum, which, while not as strong as 7000 series aluminum, is still quite durable. The arms also feature two mounting options for the sway bar. However, like many independent enthusiast-driven brands nowadays, ISC designs its parts in the U.S. but manufactures them in Taiwan. A potential red flag is the sale of replacement pillowballs, adjusters, and hardware on their website, which raises questions about the longevity of these components. This suggests that while the aluminum arm itself will hold up, the hardware may wear out quickly, with tolerances degrading over time.
ISC offers a 5-year warranty on the arm but only a 2-year warranty on the pillowballs. As the saying goes, “Buy once, cry once”—after replacing worn-out hardware, you may end up spending nearly as much as you would on a truly top-tier arm. While the sub-$500 price tag for an aluminum arm is tempting, the moving parts may not withstand the rigors of track use in the long term.
Again, IMO, their hardware just screams China/Taiwan. They even make a statement on their website “At ISC we like to take a different approach, and not only provide full transparency, but we are also proud our products are self-manufactured in one of the best manufacturing countries in the world for the aftermarket automotive industry.” I’m not convinced by that logic, especially when there are so many other excellent options available from companies in the USA, Japan, and Europe. These regions are known for their manufacturing excellence and often surpass Taiwan in terms of product quality.
BLOX… NOPE, just no. BLOX is a terrible company that makes inferior products that aren’t built to last nor perform at any level above sitting in a parking lot and trying to look cool. Plus… these look damn near identical to the RSR ones…
Hardrace/Megan Racing: There’s long been a curious ambiguity around the Hardrace brand, and misconceptions continue to persist. When Hardrace entered the U.S. market in the early 2000s, it sparked a divide among enthusiasts. Some swore by Hardrace, while others are convinced it’s just Megan Racing in disguise. There seems to be no middle ground in this long-standing debate. I’m not here to settle it, but rather to offer some unbiased facts about the brand.
Personally, I’ve used several Hardrace suspension components over the years and even recommended them to budget-conscious friends. Neither I nor my friends had any issues with these products, although none of us kept them installed for more than a year before upgrading to other options.
One common complaint about Megan Racing is that their rubber or polyurethane bushings wear out quickly. Given the belief that Hardrace products are just rebranded Megan Racing, many enthusiasts are hesitant to try Hardrace, despite the attractive price point.
I understand that information from sources like ImportGenius might be met with skepticism, as it doesn’t definitively prove Megan Racing and Hardrace are the same company. Some argue that even if they’re made in the same factory, they could be using different quality bushings. While that sounds plausible, it’s curious that despite these potential differences, the two brands’ products look nearly identical, right down to the sticker placement. If Hardrace truly produced a superior product, wouldn’t they want to differentiate themselves from a brand known for inferior quality?
As you can see below I have taken a screenshot from importgenius and highlighted some very interesting text.
https://www.importgenius.com/search/hardrace
I’m aware that many overseas manufacturers produce varying levels of quality for different brands. However, I can’t help but notice the strong similarities between Megan Racing and Hardrace products.
Regardless of what you believe, both Megan and Hardrace arms are made from heavy steel and are available in either rubber or pillowball options. Interestingly, both brands also offer two versions: a more basic arm and a more adjustable variant.
For me, there are simply too many other solid options in this price range to justify choosing Megan Racing or Hardrace, which is why I’d steer clear of both.
Check out the similarities below.
Hardrace:
Megan Racing:
Hardrace:
Megan Racing:
There are a few more brands available, but to avoid making this blog any longer than it needs to be, we’ll limit our discussion to the most widely recognized options. I feel confident that we covered everyone’s price range, material preference, and arm style above. If you can’t decide on an arm from any of the ones listed above… you might be in the wrong hobby.
Given my earlier focus on arm weight, I’d like to briefly discuss unsprung weight and the importance of reducing it. It’s worth noting that for control arms primarily designed for drifting and stance applications, unsprung weight is less of a concern than it would be for someone using them on a road course, which is why you see them being made out of steel, which also tends to make them more economical too. While this can be enticing, if you are primarily tracking your car, you should stay away from steel arms.
Unsprung weight on a car refers to the parts of the vehicle that are not supported by the suspension system.
- Wheels and Tires
- Brakes (discs, calipers)
- Axles
- Wheel hubs and bearings
- Suspension arms (if they move with the wheels)
Reducing unsprung weight is important because it improves a vehicle’s handling, ride quality, and overall performance. Here’s why:
- Better Handling: Unsprung weight refers to the mass of components not supported by the car’s suspension, such as wheels, tires, and brakes. Reducing this weight allows the suspension to react more quickly to road conditions, enhancing grip and responsiveness.
- Improved Ride Quality: With less unsprung weight, the suspension system can better absorb road imperfections, leading to a smoother ride.
- Faster Acceleration and Braking: This applies more towards wheel/tire/brake rotors. But less unsprung weight reduces the rotational mass of the wheels, improving acceleration and reducing the distance needed to stop the vehicle.
- Reduced Stress on Suspension: Lighter unsprung components put less strain on the suspension, increasing its longevity and efficiency. This pertains more to wheels and tires since they usually have the largest weight impact either in overall reduction by downsizing wheel size or increasing weight by adding larger wheels and tires.
In summary, reducing unsprung weight leads to more agile handling, a more comfortable ride, and improved performance overall. This is why having lower control arms that are made of fancy billet aluminum costs so much more than ones made from chromoly steel
Think about it like this…
Imagine you’re holding a spring with a weight attached to the end, and you move the spring up and down to simulate the behavior of a damper in a car’s suspension.
- Heavy Object: If the weight is heavy (e.g., a large brick), when you move the spring, the heavy object will be slower to respond to your movements, and the spring will take more effort to control. The weight will also continue to oscillate longer, meaning the damper has to work harder to stabilize it and stop it from bouncing up and down. This is similar to a damper trying to control a car with high unsprung weight, like heavy wheels and brakes. The suspension has to work harder, and the car may feel less responsive or harder to handle.
- Light Object: If the weight is light (e.g., a small ball), when you move the spring, the light object responds quickly to your movements, and the spring can stop the object’s motion more easily. The damper has less work to do to bring it to rest after a bump. This is similar to a car with low unsprung weight, where the suspension can more easily absorb bumps and keep the tires in contact with the road, leading to better handling and ride comfort.
In essence, the lighter the object (unsprung weight), the easier it is for the damper to control movement and improve performance.
The Verus arms were the perfect choice for us. They’re the lightest available, crafted from 7000-series aluminum, and engineered by specialists focused exclusively on high-performance automotive parts. Unlike companies with broader product lines, Verus is dedicated to creating components that deliver real performance gains. Though it’s a bit disappointing that they only offer camber adjustment, there’s likely a good reason for it. Manufactured in the USA, these arms ensure consistent quality and durability, making them an excellent option for track day enthusiasts.
We chose the Verus arms for several reasons, but it’s worth noting that if SPL hadn’t been linked to breakage issues—with substantial evidence supporting those claims—we likely would have gone with them instead. Although not the lightest option, SPL arms offer a great balance of tunability and weight. Hopefully, they’ll release a revised version soon to address the current breakage concerns.
With Marlon’s BRZ now dialed in with adjustable rear lower control arms, he can finally enjoy a fully optimized suspension setup. The minor rubbing issues are resolved, and the car’s handling should feel tighter and more predictable on both the street and track. For anyone looking to fine-tune their BRZ/86’s suspension and make the most out of aggressive wheel and tire setups, these rear control arms are a game changer.
Check out his current alignment specifications, which were achieved using the Verus front camber plates and Verus rear lower control arms. given the amount of negative rear camber he had to go with, we probably should have bumped the front to somewhere near -3.2.
While it can be argued that opting for a more affordable rear lower control arm can be a smart decision, especially if you’re primarily focused on street driving, let’s be honest—you don’t really need a $500+ arm unless you’re an avid enthusiast who demands the most from their lower control arm. The cheaper options offer decent functionality at a lower price point, providing adjustability to fine-tune your suspension and achieve that fitment you’re after without the added cost of premium materials like 7000 series aluminum and the sexiness of CNC machining. For many drivers, the slight weight difference or marginal reduction in performance won’t be noticeable in daily driving, and the use of polyurethane bushings ensures a smoother, quieter ride with less noise and vibration compared to the stiffer spherical bearings found in more expensive options. Ultimately, if you’re not pushing your car to the extreme on a regular basis, chasing tenths, or looking for a product that will last more than 10K miles, a more economical arm can offer great value by delivering “good enough” performance and camber adjustability that allows you to achieve the look you’re going for at the Cars & Coffee meets you frequent—all for a fraction of the price. And let’s be honest—”good enough” is exactly what most of you are looking for anyway.
Conversely, investing in a more expensive rear lower control arm offers numerous advantages that enhance your driving experience, especially if performance is a priority. Premium options typically utilize superior materials like high-grade aluminum, ensuring exceptional strength while remaining lightweight, which contributes to improved durability and handling. Precision engineering processes, such as CNC machining, guarantee a precise fit and enhanced performance, resulting in better grip and responsiveness, particularly during aggressive driving. Though the initial cost may be higher, the long-term benefits include reduced maintenance and replacement needs, as well as superior tunability for optimal suspension settings. Additionally, high-quality control arms are built to withstand the rigors of track use, providing peace of mind, instilling confidence, and as a cherry on top, contributing to your vehicle’s aesthetic appeal. Ultimately, choosing a premium lower control arm is a worthwhile investment for serious enthusiasts seeking to elevate their vehicle’s performance and handling.
As always, thank you for taking the time to read through my lengthy musings! I promise that, beneath the uninspired definitions and cheeky comments, you’ll find some valuable information to help you, the enthusiast, make an informed decision and successfully install upgraded parts on your car. If you have any questions, comments, “shade” you want to throw my way or want to learn more, please don’t hesitate to reach out via email at Billy@Functiontheory.com, on Instagram @Functiontheory, or simply comment on the post below, and I will get back to you.