Let’s first cover: What are sway bars and what purpose do they serve?
The Good:
When it comes to enhancing your vehicle’s handling and stability, few upgrades offer as significant a performance improvement as an anti-roll bar (also referred to as a sway bar or stabilizer bar). This key suspension component plays a crucial role in maintaining control and enhancing the driving experience. Whether you’re a daily commuter or a performance enthusiast, installing an anti-roll bar offers a range of benefits that can transform how your vehicle behaves on the road.
One of the main functions of a sway bar is to reduce body roll during cornering. When a car takes a turn, weight shifts to the outside wheels, causing the body to tilt or “roll.” This makes the car feel unbalanced and less controlled. A sway bar connects the left and right sides of the suspension and resists this motion, keeping the vehicle more level. By reducing body roll, sway bars also improve the connection between your tires and the road, increasing grip and enhancing handling. This makes the car more responsive and predictable, especially during quick maneuvers or sharp turns.
Sway bars also contribute to improved vehicle stability and comfort. By evenly distributing weight across the tires, they help prevent understeer and oversteer, ensuring the car remains balanced in challenging driving conditions. Additionally, they reduce lateral motion, keeping the car level and improving passenger comfort on curves or uneven roads. Sway bars can be customized to suit various driving styles, offering flexibility for those who prioritize either performance or ride comfort. Best of all, they are a cost-effective upgrade that delivers immediate and noticeable results without requiring major modifications to the vehicle’s suspension.
Whether you’re aiming to enhance your car’s handling, improve cornering stability, or make daily driving more responsive, a sway bar is a valuable upgrade. Its ability to reduce body roll, improve tire grip, and balance weight distribution makes it an essential upgrade for anyone seeking better performance and control. For those who value stability, comfort, and responsiveness, the sway bar is a simple yet powerful addition to any vehicle.
If you’re considering upgrading your suspension, a sway bar might just be the perfect place to start. It’s a small change that makes a big difference—on the road and beyond.
The Bad:
While sway bars offer significant benefits, they do come with a few downsides that should be considered.
Firstly, ride comfort on uneven surfaces can be compromised with sway bars, as they connect the suspension on both sides, transferring forces from one side to the other, making the ride feel stiffer and less comfortable—especially on rough or uneven roads. Additionally, overly stiff sway bars can limit a vehicle’s ability to absorb bumps and curbs on the track, potentially making the car more unsettled while also transmitting more NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) through the chassis, particularly over uneven surfaces like lane markings or bumps on the street.
Another downside is that overly stiff sway bars can reduce traction on rough surfaces or during aggressive driving or heavy braking. If the bar is too stiff, it may restrict the suspension’s ability to absorb bumps, leading to reduced tire contact with the road—particularly during mid-corner impacts. This can result in a loss of grip, which is counterproductive to performance and safety.
Finally, improper usage or tuning can negatively affect handling balance. A sway bar that is too stiff or not properly matched to the rest of the suspension components can introduce understeer or oversteer, diminishing the vehicle’s overall handling dynamics. It is important to choose the right sway bar setup based on the vehicle type, driving conditions, and personal preferences.
A general rule of thumb is:
- Stiffer Front Bar: Reduces front roll but increases understeer.
- Stiffer Rear Bar: Reduces rear roll but increases oversteer.
Because of this, it is a very common practice for FWD owners to only upgrade to a larger rear sway bar, which helps get the car to rotate more. This is a good thing on a FWD car because that rotation helps combat understeer caused by the front wheels trying to not only turn but also deliver the power.
Balance is critical depending on your car’s drivetrain (FWD, RWD, AWD).
It’s important to remember that there’s no one-size-fits-all sway bar setup that works perfectly for every car or driver. There are countless variables to consider—tire size and compound, alignment specs, spring rates, staggered or square wheel/tire setup, and the type of driving you’re planning to do. Whether it’s spirited canyon runs, track days, or autocross, your ideal setup will depend on these factors. So, keep all of that in mind when trying to mimic someone else’s build. Just because a specific setup works well for someone else doesn’t mean it will work for you.
A common misconception likely originated in the late ’90s and early 2000s, when many enthusiasts were modifying cars that weren’t designed for performance. These vehicles often came with undersized sway bars—or no rear sway bar at all—so upgrading them became not only common but necessary to improve the car’s performance.
Over time, this notion has been passed down to newer generations of car enthusiasts, fostering the belief that sway bar upgrades are always necessary. However, modern performance cars tell a different story. Today’s vehicles often come equipped with well-engineered suspension systems from the factory, making them capable track-ready tools with minimal modifications.
I’m not arguing against sway bar upgrades—however, for modern performance-oriented vehicles, they may not always be the first priority when enhancing performance. As we’ll explore below, installing only a front sway bar on Marlon’s car ended up negatively impacting his performance rather than providing the intended benefits. (we will get more into that later)
Arriving at Marlon’s house and a little bit of backstory:
Once again, due to scheduling constraints, we find ourselves at Marlon’s fastidiously clean and well-maintained garage. By the time I arrive, the car is already on quick jacks with the wheels removed. That’s just Marlon—always so thoughtful and considerate of my time, wanting to get as much done as possible before I arrive so we can dive straight into the task. I truly appreciate his attention to detail, though removing the rear wheels wasn’t entirely necessary for this job. Oh well, at least it makes for a better picture, right?
From the moment I arrive at Marlon’s garage, I can’t help but feel inspired to take photos. The lighting here is simply perfect for capturing great shots—whether it’s the position of the car or the tidy, well-organized surroundings. It’s one of those spaces that naturally lends itself to photography (especially compared to my dim and cluttered garage), making it hard to resist snapping a few pictures before we even dive into the task at hand.
Whether or not I was at fault for slightly misleading Marlon is beside the point. What matters is that he ended up only purchasing an aftermarket front sway bar while keeping the rear sway bar stock after I suggested not to upgrade both the front and rear. I’ll admit that my car knowledge is primarily based on Hondas, particularly front-wheel-drive (FWD) models, so I applied what I knew to Marlon’s situation.
Since I mostly track FWD Hondas, where the typical approach is to upgrade only the rear sway bar, I recognized that this wouldn’t be the correct setup for Marlon. Drawing from what little front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (FR) chassis knowledge I’ve gathered from Pat, who heavily tracks his S2000, I realized his setup might have been more applicable. Pat upgraded his front sway bar to an aftermarket one and reduced his rear sway bar size, swapping the OEM AP1 rear sway bar (27.2mm) for the smaller OEM AP2 rear sway bar (25.4mm).
My theory was that Marlon didn’t need a rear sway bar upgrade because making the car more oversteery wouldn’t be beneficial—drifting isn’t faster. Since Marlon was determined to upgrade a sway bar, I thought Pat’s setup might be more applicable, so we decided to go with just a front sway bar. However, I overlooked a crucial detail: the S2000 has a short long arm (SLA) double wishbone front suspension, while the BRZ uses a MacPherson strut front suspension. These two setups have entirely different dynamics, which I failed to account for. (see there I go not even following my own advice about one-size not fitting all)
Hindsight being 20/20, this might not have been the best advice I could have given Marlon. But in my defense, I didn’t even want him to get any sway bars in the first place. I told him that, with his car’s lack of modifications and more street-oriented RT615K tires, upgraded sway bars weren’t necessary until he made more significant grip improvements and went with coilovers for stiffer suspension. But as I mentioned above, people who modified cars—especially econoboxes—during the late 90s and early 2000s, like Marlon, have this strange fixation on treating sway bars as crucial upgrades for newer cars, when in fact they aren’t.
Originally, because I had driven Marlon’s car in its stock form when he first got it and quickly noticed it was pretty tail-happy, I knew he didn’t need a rear sway bar. If anything, a front sway bar might have helped balance the car’s handling by introducing some understeer to counteract the tail happiness. So we just agreed to disagree and found common ground in only purchasing a front sway bar. The key point here is that I drove his car when it was completely stock, with fewer than 600 miles on it and the stock 215 width tires. After lowering it and installing wider wheels and tires, which provided more grip than the stock ones, the car’s dynamics had clearly changed.
Fast forward to after we lowered and installed the aftermarket wheels and tires on Marlon’s car. By this point, he had completed three track days—one at Spring Mountain Motorsport Ranch and two at LVMS on the outside road course—where he consistently complained about slight understeer. Keep in mind, this was before we even installed the front sway bar. Our first step in addressing the understeer issue was to increase front camber and dial out some of the rear camber naturally introduced by the multi-link suspension as the car was lowered. By increasing the amount of negative front camber, I hoped to enhance grip in turns, while reducing the amount of negative rear camber would decrease grip during throttle application exiting turns, helping to mitigate the car’s tendency to plow through corners.
You can click the links below to catch up on what we did thus far to mitigate his understeering woes.
Despite installing all of the parts and getting his front camber to -3.0 degrees and reducing his rear camber to -2.5 degrees, we still weren’t able to fully resolve the understeer issue. At his last two track days (now 5 track days in with the OEM front sway bar), Marlon still noticed some persistent understeer. Unfortunately, Marlon had purchased the Eibach front sway bar many months prior to making any of the other modifications mentioned above, but we just hadn’t installed it yet. I felt bad knowing he wanted to install the sway bar, but I also knew that simply adding the front sway bar wouldn’t fully address the understeer and would likely make it worse.
Knowing this, I figured we could make it a good teaching moment for him. By installing the front sway bar without making any other changes to the car, he would gain a better understanding of the impacts—both positive and negative—of installing a large front sway bar. So, with just a few weeks before his next track day, we set a date and time for me to head over and assist with the installation of the aftermarket front sway bar.
The Installation:
Marlon chose the Eibach adjustable 25mm front sway bar, which increased the size by 7mm from the OEM 18mm sway bar. While I know there are other options on the market with smaller increases that might have less impact on understeer, we ultimately went with the Eibach bar because it felt like the right choice at the time.
In hindsight, exploring other options like the Whiteline front sway bar might have been worthwhile. The Whiteline bar is available in 20mm and 22mm sizes, each with two adjustment settings, making it a strong alternative. Additionally, Perrin offers two front sway bars: a 19mm bar with a 25% and 72% increase, and a 22mm bar with a 130% and 218% increase.
Looking back, my lack of BRZ-specific knowledge was evident in the sway bar choice for Marlon. However, as I’ve mentioned in previous posts about upgrading his car, I’m incredibly grateful for his patience and understanding when I might lead him astray. In the end, these experiences help us both grow as enthusiasts, expanding our knowledge and learning through hands-on trials.
The kit comes complete with everything you’ll need for the installation, including step-by-step instructions, which pretty much render my DIY process unnecessary, lol. But I’m still going to do it anyway because I will provide a much more detailed insight compared to their vague five-step process.
Let’s begin the uninstall of the OEM bar process.
First you’ll need to remove all the under panels/splash shields.
And not just the aluminum one, but also the carpet-style one further back on the car as well. You will need this out of the way so you can access the bolts to remove the sub-frame assemblies.
Next, you will need to pop off the clips and remove the small plastic splash shields on the back side of the wheel well.
Then start by loosening the bolts that secure the triangular-style brackets to the sub-frame.
With the bolts removed, you can now remove the thin steel triangular pieces on each side.
Here is what it looks like with it removed.
Then you’ll move on to removing the sub-frame assemblies that the sway bar bolts to.
There is one bolt hidden under the plastic undertray which can be accessed by easily pulling the tray down after you pop the plastic clips out of it.
Now with all the bolts removed from both sides, only then the entire assembly will come out as one big piece.
However, One step I forgot to mention is that we simply unbolted the end links where they attached to the strut, as it made access much easier because the 17mm nut that secures the end link to the strut faces outward. This will make more sense when you’re working on your own car—you’ll see how it’s just more ergonomic to access the end link where it bolts to the strut.
Full transparency: This approach wasn’t as helpful as we initially thought. While it seemed easier at first, reassembly still required us to lie on the ground and maneuver a wrench into a tight space to attach the end link to the new sway bar. Ultimately, this meant disconnecting the end link at both ends, doubling the effort and not really saving us any time or labor.
In hindsight, if we had opted for the more cumbersome method initially—disconnecting the end link at the lower mount (where it attaches to the sway bar) while leaving the upper mount attached to the strut—we would have saved time by only needing to unbolt one nut on each sway bar end link.
For anyone planning a sway bar installation: disconnect the end link at the sway bar mount to save time and effort. Sometimes, what seems like the harder path initially is the better choice overall. As the saying goes, low-hanging fruit isn’t always the sweetest.
Apologies for jumping around, but here’s a picture of the end link mounting location on the strut where we disconnected it. While this seemed like the easier option at first, it ultimately wasn’t the ideal solution.
Ok so now we have the whole sway bar assembly completely removed and on the floor.
You will need to unbolt the sway bar from both the driver’s side and passenger side sub-frame assemblies. Each side has one nut and one bolt, making a total of four pieces (two bolts and two nuts) to remove in order to free the sway bar. These are 12mm and 14mm socket sizes.
Begin by flipping over the whole thing.
This will provide visibility and access to the nut that secures the sway bar to the sub-frame assembly via the D-bracket.
To make this easier, Toyota/Subaru has provided an access hole in the frame assembly.
Slap an extension onto a compact 3/8″ impact gun and zap that thing off.
Now, do the same on the other side.
Then flip the entire frame assembly back over to the position it was in when we initially removed it from the car.
And you’ll see the bolt that secures the D-bracket to the sub-frame assembly.
Grab the same tool you used to unbolt the nuts, and now remove the two bolts (one per side).
Now the sway bar should be completely removed from both the left-hand and right-hand frame assemblies.
Clearly, the new 25mm Eibach bar is much larger than the 18mm OEM one.
Now we can begin preparing the new bar for installation. Start by applying a generous amount of grease to each bushing, which comes included in the kit.
Yes, this grease is very tacky and unpleasant to get on your hands, as it often ends up on your clothes, permanently staining them. However, applying generous amounts of grease to any areas where the sway bar and bushings come into contact is essential, as it helps prevent squeaking and creaking during suspension movement. Failure to apply enough grease may not be immediately noticeable, but issues could arise after a few months of driving—depending on the climate and how frequently you drive. There’s nothing worse than having to re-grease the sway bar bushings just a few hundred miles after installation. Of course, no matter how much grease you apply initially, regreasing the bushings will still be necessary down the road—typically between 3-5 years or 20k-40k miles after installation.
As you can see above, we’ve applied grease to the bushing. Below, you can see that we’ve also applied it around the entire sway bar, where the bushing will live the rest of it’s life.
It’s extremely important to ensure the bushing is installed on the correct side, as they are asymmetrical and must be oriented properly. As you can see, the bushings have a flange/standoff machined into them, which helps provide the correct amount of spacing.
As shown below, the flange/standoff on the bushing should face towards and rest against the sway bar lateral lock. Unlike other brands that use bolt-on lateral locks, Eibach has welded theirs directly to the bar, ensuring a precise and secure installation. Installing lateral locks isn’t particularly difficult, and this shouldn’t necessarily be a key factor in choosing an Eibach bar over another brand. However, I wanted to highlight these differences to help provide a clearer understanding for those new to the process..
Sway bar lateral locks play a crucial role in maintaining the performance and reliability of a vehicle’s sway bar system by preventing lateral movement along its mounts, which can occur during aggressive driving, cornering, or on rough terrain. This ensures the sway bar remains properly aligned with the suspension, enhancing handling, stability, and safety, particularly during high-speed or aggressive maneuvers. By reducing unnecessary stress and wear on bushings and mounts, lateral locks help extend the lifespan of these components and improve overall suspension reliability. They are especially beneficial for performance and track vehicles, off-road applications, or any scenario where sway bar drift could compromise handling. Many OEM sway bars—such as the one you just removed—include lateral locks from the factory, demonstrating that modern cars are designed with performance in mind from the outset. This further supports my argument that newer vehicles may not always require immediate sway bar upgrades. However, every car can benefit from sway bar modifications; it’s simply that some vehicles may not warrant these upgrades until further along in your modification journey and only when pushing your car harder on the track.
Again, the picture below illustrates how the machined flange/standoff of the bushing should face and make contact with the sway bar lateral lock, while the outboard side of the bushing lacks a flange/standoff.
And this is the other side. Again, just emphasizing that the flange/standoff of the bushing should be facing and making contact with the lateral lock.
Once you’ve properly greased both bushings and the sway bar where the bushings will be seated, you can now bolt the new bar onto the frame assemblies in the reverse order of how you removed the OEM bar.
It’s imperative to install the new sway bar in the correct orientation. This means ensuring the right-hand (RH) and left-hand (LH) sub-frame assemblies are not mixed up and avoiding installing the sway bar 180° off. To prevent any mistakes, we took the precaution of keeping each piece oriented exactly as it was when removed, making sure all RH and LH components remained on their respective sides during disassembly.
If you happen to mix them up and attempt to reinstall the sway bar incorrectly, don’t worry—it won’t fit, so there’s no danger of ruining your suspension. Instead, you’ll enjoy a complimentary lesson in humility, likely featuring a facepalm or maybe a theatrical tool toss for added drama. Once the moment passes, simply disconnect everything, swap the pieces to their correct positions, and reassemble. Simple enough, right?
See below how the OEM sway bar and the Eibach one are oriented the same way, with matching bends and curves that align perfectly.
A helpful trick we used to make the reinstall process easier was to hold off on attaching the end links to the new sway bar until everything else was bolted back onto the car. This approach is especially useful if you’re working solo and want to avoid unnecessary frustration. Attaching the end links beforehand could cause interference with other suspension components as you raise the sway bar back into place.
Since there were two of us—and I’m not exactly a hands-off journalist—I couldn’t resist jumping in to lend Marlon a hand. I kept the bar balanced, manually threaded a few bolts, and made sure he could take his sweet time double-checking everything. You know, because some of us just can’t resist “helping” when things aren’t being done exactly the way we want. I believe this is called experiential guidance?
Keep in mind, there are several bolt types and lengths, so be sure not to mix them up during reinstallation. A best practice is to keep them organized as you remove them from the car to ensure nothing gets mixed up when reinstalling. We torqued them to 55 lb-ft.
Below, you can see the sway bar is now completely reinstalled, including the triangular bracing plates on each side, which we torqued to 44 LB/FT.
Now, with everything reinstalled onto the car, we can proceed to remove the end links from the OEM bar. Since Marlon’s car is brand new (with less than 3,000 miles) and we live in a dry desert climate, a quick zap with an impact gun should easily shock loose the 17mm nut.
However, if your car is older, has high mileage, or you live in a moist climate (including high humidity), you may need to use a 6mm Allen wrench in conjunction with a 17mm combo wrench. There is a provision on the end link where the Allen wrench can be inserted to prevent the end link joint from spinning, allowing you to use the closed end of the combo wrench to loosen the 17mm nut.
With the end link removed, you can now transfer it onto the car. To make getting the end link back into the strut mounting location easier, here’s a tip: When working on the driver’s side, turn the steering wheel to the right, and when working on the passenger side, turn the steering wheel to the left. This will create a larger gap between the end link mounting location on the strut and the chassis of the car. If you don’t do this, you may become frustrated as you won’t be able to get the end link back in. (Refer to the picture below, showing the brake rotor turned to the right.)
BUUUUUT… if we had done it differently and left the end link attached to the strut, none of this would’ve been necessary. The end link would’ve stayed attached to the strut the entire time, and we’d only have needed to unbolt it at the sway bar ¯\(ツ)/¯
With the nut now threaded back on top and torqued to 44 LB/FT, we can move on to the bottom one.
Thread the lower nut on manually to get it started.
Then, switch to the magical electric ratchet to snug it down, followed by torquing to 44 LB/FT.
You’ll also notice that we are running the sway bar on the ‘softer’ setting because I knew there was already going to be too much understeer.
Below is a screenshot directly from the PDF of Eibach’s install manual.
Here it is all completely installed and everything bolted back together.
There’s just something about that bodyline—it’s like a perfect stroke of artistry, sculpted with both precision and passion. The way it flows so effortlessly, catching the light just right, makes it feel alive, almost like it’s in motion even when standing still. And that fender vent? Oh, it’s not just a vent; it’s a statement. It’s a bold exhale of confidence, blending form and function in a way that whispers speed and elegance all at once. Together, they create a harmony that’s not just visually striking but emotionally evocative—enough to quicken the pulse and leave you utterly captivated.
This picture isn’t about showing off a car here—I’m highlighting a truly enviable duo. It’s one thing to have a sick car, but to have two machines that exude style, performance, and personality? That’s next-level. Each car tells its own story, with its unique quirks and character, yet together they form a garage lineup that’s nothing short of legendary. Even when simply sitting side by side in the driveway, these two stand as a testament to automotive passion and impeccable taste.
…It’s a good thing he got rid of that lame golden era FWD car, right?! (inside joke)
As mentioned at the beginning of the post , Marlon probably could have skipped installing this sway bar. On his most recent track day after we just installed the Eibach sway bar, he had Pat ride along with him to give him some pointers on improving driver mod. Pat’s overwhelming consensus was that there is too much understeer, which I anticipated. However, the whole experience has taught us a lot about the BRZ/GR86 chassis and helped both of us grow in understanding how to approach modifications across multiple platforms. Looking ahead, we’re planning to add a rear sway bar to balance the upgraded front, and we’ve come to realize that his car is evolving into a dedicated track car. With that in mind, a coilover upgrade is likely on the horizon.
Adjustable sway bar end links:
Speaking of modifications Marlon didn’t necessarily need, let’s talk about adjustable sway bar end links real quick because I’m sure some of you are wondering what they do, when they’re useful, and why we didn’t use them.
Factory cars typically come with fixed-length sway bar end links, which work fine for everyday driving but aren’t ideal for performance setups like racecars. In performance applications, the goal is to ensure the sway bar stays neutral (no tension), applying tension only when needed during cornering. Adjustable-length end links allow you to fine-tune the sway bar, preventing unwanted preload or tension when driving straight. Without them, fixed-length links can introduce unnecessary pre load or tension, leading to poor/degraded handling.
Adjustable end links are particularly important when substantially lowering a car. Lowering changes the sway bars’ angle, reducing its performance and travel while increasing the risk of interference with components like the drive shafts, subframes, and other suspension components. Adjustable end links restore the sway bar to the correct angle, ensuring proper movement and eliminating preload, which can otherwise lead to uneven suspension loads and poor handling, especially in high-speed cornering.
Typically, for cars lowered an inch or less, stock end links are sufficient to maintain the correct sway bar angle. However, when lowering more than an inch, the angle changes enough to affect performance, making adjustable end links necessary to prevent reduced travel, unwanted preload, or interference with other components.
Since Marlon’s car is only lowered by 1 inch—right on the borderline of needing adjustable sway bar end links—we decided to stick with the OEM fixed-length ones for now. When we first started modifying his BRZ, the plan was to keep things simple and focus on small, non-intrusive upgrades to maintain the comfort and reliability of his brand-new car. However, with each track day, it’s clear the car is transitioning from a daily driver to a dedicated track car, giving us the freedom to consider more aggressive modifications.
If you’re lowering your car on springs by an inch or less, adjustable end links aren’t a necessity—they’re more of a “nice-to-have” upgrade. You’ll likely be fine sticking with stock links. That said, if you’re chasing maximum performance and want every detail dialed in, adjustable end links are worth considering.
For cars lowered more than an inch, especially with coilovers, adjustable end links become much more important. They help maintain proper sway bar alignment, improve handling, and prevent interference with other components. But remember, adjustable parts are only as effective as their installation. Setting them up with incorrect preload or tension can negatively impact handling, making things worse than if you had just stuck with the stock links. Adjustability offers great potential but also increases the risk of mistakes, so it’s critical to get it right.
In conclusion:
As always, thank you so much for visiting the blog and following our journey with Marlon’s BRZ. Tackling a chassis I have no prior experience with—especially a RWD platform when I’m more familiar with FWD—has been a steep learning curve. The upside is that you get firsthand insights from our experiences, including the times we didn’t choose the most optimal modification path.
By the end of this process, undoubtedly will we have taken the long road to turning the BRZ into a more functional track car, but we’ll also have a clear understanding of which modifications were truly necessary, which ones weren’t, and what we should have done differently from the start.
I hope I’ve provided you with valuable knowledge to help you become a better enthusiast and truly understand which modifications are necessary and which aren’t. Remember, “building” a car isn’t about arbitrarily throwing parts at it to check items off a list. It’s about understanding what the car needs by listening to what it tells you while driving—through the feedback you feel in the steering wheel, the response when you apply the gas or brakes, and the overall sensations it provides. Keep in mind, what works for one car or driver might not work for another, so always consider your specific goals and driving style. The principle of “one-size-fits-all” doesn’t always apply when it comes to modifications.
Of course! If you have any questions, comments, concerns, feedback, or just want to say hi, feel free to reach out. You can email me at Billy@Functiontheory.com, DM me on Instagram @Functiontheory, or simply leave a comment on the post below—I’ll make sure to reply. I love hearing from you and enjoy helping others better understand things, so don’t hesitate to reach out!