It’s been almost two whole years since we last turned a wrench on Ever’s K24 S2000 project. But, like an awkward text from an ex, we’re back at it again—because some habits (and projects) just never really die!
I have to admit, Ever has a habit of not seeing things through to completion, so I’m genuinely surprised that we’re keeping this dream alive. He typically takes projects to about 75% completion before losing interest, abandoning them, or moving on to a new hobby, often selling off his old projects for next to nothing. I’ve started calling him the “75%’er” because it seems like he rarely follows anything through to the end—except for his NSX, of course.
That car is his forever car, and for good reason: it’s undeniably one of the greatest cars ever made. No other vehicle captures such raw emotion or delivers the exhilarating crescendo of its 90° V6 engine screaming toward 8,000 RPM. With its analog controls and minimalist design, the NSX offers a pure, connected driving experience—a harmonious trifecta of performance, sound, and simplicity that remains unmatched since its debut.
A timeless classic, the NSX embodies the essence of driving like no other car. While many manufacturers have created tributes to Ayrton Senna, this was the first car in which he played a pivotal role in development. Some might even say that Senna’s spirit lives on in its DNA. If you don’t understand why that’s so special, do yourself a favor and look up his name—you’ll see why the NSX, like Senna, is a legend.
So, for the past two years, Ever’s S2000 has been sitting in my garage—abandoned, unloved, and neglected. The main reason? In early 2022, he sold his house in Las Vegas and moved to the middle of nowhere in Snowflake, Arizona, which I’ve humorously dubbed Bumfuck, Arizona. Now, most people would take their projects with them to their new homes and continue working on them, but Ever isn’t exactly “most people.” He chose a remote house that can only be reached via a mile-long dirt road (yes, that’s the driveway). If you want a good laugh and to see I’m not exaggerating, just Google map Snowflake, Arizona, and then head about an hour northeast to appreciate just how remote his new home really is.
Now, you might be wondering, “Why not just trailer the car and keep it in a garage on the property to finish the project?” But when it comes to Ever, nothing is ever that simple. He doesn’t have a typical garage—what he has is a two-sided shed that’s more of a glorified shelter for tractors, tools, and machines. It’s not exactly secure—two of its four walls are missing, the floor is just dirt, and it’s practically a wildlife sanctuary with owl nests, rattlesnake holes, and even mouse communities calling it home. It’s hardly the ideal setup for storing, let alone working on, a car of this caliber.
Before his S2000 took up permanent residence in my garage, my trusty K20-swapped EG used to call it home. But ever since the S2000’s engine took a permanent vacation at his last track day a few years ago, it’s been shacking up at my place, patiently waiting to complete a K24 swap. Meanwhile, my EG and his NSX are on an extended vacation at his parents’ house in Las Vegas. At this point, the S2000 has basically claimed squatters’ rights!
Here’s a glimpse of his parents’ garage. This is a recent photo taken at the beginning of October 2024 when he visited town and we did the rear subframe drop on his S2000.
Describing his NSX as ‘neglected’ would be an understatement—at this point, I might have forgotten he even owned one. It hasn’t been started in over two years, let alone experienced the excitement of the open road. My poor EG is facing a similar fate, as it hasn’t so much as fired up in nearly two years either. I had been storing it at a friend’s garage while Ever’s S2000 was at my place going through stage one of its build (before the engine blew), and then relocated it to Ever’s parents’ garage after the RDOT F20C engine catastrophe.
When Ever was in town this time, we realized it was high time to give his NSX some much-needed TLC and take it for a few exhilarating laps on our favorite “fun” roads. But before we could do that, we had to wake my EG from its long hibernation. To our delight, the battery still had enough charge to bring the car back to life, all thanks to the smart tender I had kept hooked up during its slumber.
Leaving a car battery connected to a tender for over two years isn’t a concern—provided you’re using the right type of tender. A high-quality ‘smart’ battery tender or maintainer is designed to monitor the battery’s condition, charging it only as needed to prevent overcharging. These smart tenders can remain connected for months or even years, as they automatically switch to maintenance mode once the battery is fully charged.
So, the battery was good to go… but after sitting un-started for ages, the fuel injectors were another story. They had gotten gummed up from the fuel as it turned into varnish. When the engine asthmatically came to life, it was barely running on two cylinders—sputtering along like it had forgotten how to be a car. Luckily, after some minor coaxing, the other two injectors finally decided to join the party, and the car settled into an idle without me having to stand there manually nudging the throttle body.
And finally, of course, the two-year-old gas in the tank had all but turned to varnish, leaving barely enough octane to fire off a Model T Ford, let alone a high-compression JDM DC5 Type R K20A. This meant I wasn’t about to take this thing out to crack any VTEC. Nope, all this thing was going to do was back out of the garage and then pull back in. If I were going to actually try to drive it around, I would have just drained all the gas out and put in some fresh 91 octane.
Once my car was out of the way, we turned our attention to his NSX. We slid the quick jacks under it and jumped straight into changing the oil that had been sitting stagnant for the past two years. For those who might not know, oil can lose its viscosity over time, especially when exposed to oxygen or contaminants like moisture and dust. And given how valuable C30 engines are, we weren’t about to take any chances—especially with only 53k miles clocked on this incredible machine. We treated it like the rare JDM gem it is.
After changing the oil, we quickly discovered that his battery was dead. Apparently, he hadn’t been as smart as I was with the battery tendering. We managed to jump-start the car with his truck, but the battery was so far gone it wouldn’t hold a charge. So, off to Advanced Auto we went—where he’d originally bought the battery, and where it was still under warranty. They swapped it out for a new one, and the best part? No charge! Talk about classic Ever luck.
Lastly, just so you don’t think we skipped the most crucial step, we did drain the two-year-old gas from his tank. We went the ‘creative’ route by disconnecting the fuel return line from the regulator and running a long hose from the regulator into a gas can. Then, we started the car, and all the fuel that would normally bleed past the regulator and return to the tank was now flowing directly into the can. Now, I won’t claim this was the most efficient solution—it took about 20 minutes of idling to get it done—but hey, it worked. There are definitely faster ways to drain the tank (like remotely or manually powering the fuel pump to push it out), but given that his parents’ garage is seriously lacking in tools, this was the simplest setup we could come up with.
Now that you’re up to speed on the dramatic saga that led to a two-year break from working on his S2000, let’s take a stroll down memory lane with the last four posts about his K24-swapped S2000. This will give you a better sense of the sheer magnitude of this ‘no bolt left unturned’ rebuild—honestly, if we put this much effort into a treasure hunt, we might just unearth Davy Jones’ lost loot!
You’d better catch up on all those posts if you want to truly appreciate the monumental effort and high-quality parts that have gone into this rebuild so far. Not only is there a wealth of ‘priceless’ information meticulously detailed (because who doesn’t enjoy a good deep dive?), but the sheer effort required to publish these gems is nothing short of heroic. Seriously, you owe it to yourself—and to us—to dive in and absorb it all. Don’t be the one who misses out!
Ok, so you saw the header picture of this post, and if it wasn’t obvious, we’re dropping the rear subframe and installing a bunch of Spoon goodies, a completely refreshed/upgraded AP2 diff, Hasport diff bushings, and removing the charcoal canister and all associated lines (since he’s going to be running an AEM Infinity standalone).
Because it’s been a few years since we last worked on the car, we decided to pull out all the parts and take inventory of everything he has—both what’s already completed and what still needs to be done.
In the pictures, you’ll see two prop shafts—one from an AP1 and one from an AP2—because we’re swapping to an AP2 differential. This means we also need to replace the prop shaft with the AP2 version since Ever’s car is an AP1. Additionally, we’ll need to swap the transmission flange to an AP2 flange as well (check out the pictures below).
There’s actually no real necessity to swap from an AP1 to an AP2 differential, but we have to do it because Ever accidentally ordered a refreshed/upgraded AP2 one (classic Ever move!). If you’re putting an AP2 diff into your AP1, make sure you have an AP2 prop shaft, an AP2 transmission flange, and a set of X12 AP2 prop shaft bolts, at the very least. You should also closely follow the steps listed below.
- Do Not Disturb the Diff Flange: When installing an AP2 differential, it’s important not to disturb the flange on the differential itself. This ensures proper alignment and function. This means that you shouldn’t simply swap your diff flange from the AP1 diff onto the AP2 diff. This will result in a whole heap of issues that might not immediately show up but will definitely become a problem sooner than later. There is a specific amount of turning torque that needs to be set, and this isn’t easily done.
- Prop Shaft Compatibility: You will need an AP2 prop shaft because the bolt holes are different sizes. The AP1 uses 8mm bolts, while the AP2 uses 10mm bolts. The AP1 prop shaft won’t accommodate the larger AP2 bolts since it has smaller holes.
- Transmission Flange from an AP2: To connect the AP2 differential to an AP1 transmission, you should also get the AP2 10mm bolt hole flange for the AP1 transmission. This ensures that the differential can be properly mounted without issues.
- Bolt Specifications:
- AP1: Uses 8mm bolts for both front and rear, with different lengths (the rear bolts are longer).
- AP2: Uses 10mm bolts for both front and rear, and they are the same length.
- Avoid Improper Bolt Use: While it might be possible to use the smaller AP1 bolts through the larger AP2 differential holes, it’s not advisable. The diameter and length differences can lead to improper fastening and potential failures. Using the correct bolts ensures that everything is secured properly and operates as intended.
Fortunately, our good friend Pat is not only an S2000 expert but also has a wealth of extra parts on hand, including an AP2 prop shaft.
Arguably one of the neatest modifications we are doing is a long-time discontinued Spoon high-capacity diff cover. Ever was lucky enough to come across this on YAJ and scored a real unique “period correct” part for his car.
Spoon Sports High-Capacity Differential Cover:
The Spoon Sports High Capacity Differential Case for Honda S2000 AP1/AP2 (2000-2009) is designed to increase oil capacity to 2200cc, addressing the need for high-quality lubrication and reduced oil temperature during hard driving. This upgrade aims to prevent tooth surface rupture of the gears by maintaining a lower oil temperature, even under intense running conditions.
Key Features:
- Increased oil capacity to 2200cc
- Improved lubrication state for high-performance driving
- Reduced oil temperature for gear longevity
- Modified wall thickness and high rigidity for enhanced overall case strength
- Improved tooth contact and reduced backlash
- It’s Fucking Sick!
This high-capacity differential cover is a direct replacement for the OEM unit, requiring no modifications to the stock mounts. However, you do lose the convenient rear jacking point.
Spoon uses a factory differential cover, which they modify by cutting a hole in it. They then fabricate a thin, flat basin to increase the overall capacity of the differential fluid.
To get this thing onto the new (but second-hand) AP2 diff, the first step is pulling the diff mount studs out of the AP2 housing. We’ll need those studs for the Spoon diff cover.
This is easily accomplished by way of a ratchet and 8mm socket.
First, manually break all four loose, then switch to an electric ratchet to speed up the removal process.
Two are removed.
Now on to the last two.
With all four now removed, you can see why using an electric ratchet is a good idea—there’s a lot of threading involved.
AP2 diff cover now has all four studs removed.
Remember, this is the refreshed AP2 diff we’re installing, and we’re swapping on the Spoon diff cover. So, once again, we need to remove the studs from the stock cover and transfer them to the Spoon cover.
Now see us threading in the studs we just removed from the OEM diff case into the Spoon case.
Pro tip: Use some Loctite for peace of mind. We couldn’t find specific torque specs for these 4 studs, and since it’s a steel stud being threaded into an aluminum cover, it’s very easy to strip the threads, so be careful. We used the max torque from the electric ratchet and then gave it about an additional 90° turn. However, please exercise caution—it’s dangerously easy to pull the aluminum threads out of the case, so use your best judgment.
Once again, we use the electric ratchet to speed up the threading process.
Spoon cover is now ready to be mated to the AP2 diff.
Next, you will need to tap out the output shafts on each side of the diff to allow the diff cover to be removed once all the bolts have been taken out.
These only require a few light taps to pop out.
WHEEE! there is goes.
Now, rotate the diff and work on the other side.
We’re being somewhat careless about how they fly out and land, but we’re not too concerned since one of them was damaged during shipping anyway. Therefore, we’ll use the output shafts from the AP1 differential that’s currently in his car. These output shafts are fully interchangeable between the AP1 and AP2, as there’s no difference between them.
Next, move on to the bolts that secure the diff cover to the diff. Use a 12mm socket on these.
With all of them now loosened, we can switch back to the trusty electric ratchet to quickly remove them.
All the bolts are the same length except for two. It’s important to ensure you don’t use one of the longer bolts in a shorter hole during reassembly.
Now, using a dead blow hammer carefully tap evenly around the cover to remove it.
Once the Hondabond seal is broken, you can wiggle the cover back and forth to remove it. Just be careful not to use a screwdriver or any other metal pry tool to break the seal, as you could scratch or damage the mating surface, potentially causing sealing issues and leaks later on.
Now the cover can easily be removed from the diff.
With the cover off, we can finally relax knowing he wasn’t scammed when buying the diff. Not that we’re saying Team Kelly Racing are scammers, but you know how it goes with Marketplace purchases… Thankfully, we can clearly see the stud conversion on the differential bearing caps. Phew!
Close up of what I’m talking about. Normally there are bolts that hold differential bearing caps on.
By converting the bolts to studs, you not only increase the strength of the clamping but also eliminate the tolerance gaps in the bolt holes, which prevents the bearing caps from shifting outward under extreme load.
Watch the video below to better understand why upgrading to studs is beneficial, and to see what other improvements are included with the upgraded diff. If you’re keeping your S2000 NA, this is a great, economical way to upgrade your diff.
Ever managed to find a Team Kelly Racing modified and refreshed AP2 diff on Facebook Marketplace. It would have been great if he had found a Team Kelly Racing AP1 diff to purchase, but we’ll just gloss over that. Either way, we’re now certain that his entire drivetrain is good to handles the added torque of the K24 swap
Plus, it’s very clean inside too.
Here is what the diff looks like all taken apart.
And with the Spoon cover for comparison.
Next, all the seals in the differential he purchased were new. So, we simply transferred them from the OEM cover to the Spoon cover.
These just pop in with minimal force, or with some light persuasion using a seal driver tool. Be sure to lubricate the cover where the seal goes in with some oil, as this will help it slide in easily without binding and potentially tearing the seal.
Now, with both seals in place, you can move on to spreading a thin layer of Hondabond onto the mating surfaces to ensure a leak-free seal. Before applying the Hondabond, though, make sure both mating surfaces are thoroughly cleaned for the best possible seal. You can use a plastic razor blade to easily remove the old Hondabond. Remember, a stitch in time saves nine.
Now we are ready to install the Spoon cover onto the AP2 diff.
We don’t have a tool to properly secure the diff in a vise. So, we’re using some lumber to prevent it from tipping. This helps as we slide the case on.
The tolerances are tight, so it’s important to evenly slide the cover on to prevent any binding or damage. Once aligned properly, it should slide on easily—don’t force it.
Once properly installed, flip the diff over and start hand threading in all of the diff cover bolts.
Thread all 10 bolts in manually. Then, cinch them down in a star pattern. Tighten them to a final torque specification of 19 lb-ft.
Next, we removed the old, used Spoon magnetic drain bolt that came installed in the diff cover and swapped it with a brand-new one I had lying around. I kept the old, patinaed one because first-generation Spoon parts are great collector’s items.
And that’s a wrap for day one. We spent the last few hours of the afternoon prepping the AP2 diff for installation, which we’ll tackle first thing tomorrow morning. Below is what it looks like all put back together after installing the Spoon cover.
Lastly, let’s talk about these Hasport diff mounts we’re about to install. We went with the 62A urethane because, as much as this is a ‘track car,’ it still has to endure those endless stretches of highway to the tracks in California. I know this is ‘FUNCTION’ theory, after all—but we’re in our forties now and like to enjoy a little peace and quiet on the way there. These mounts are already going to transmit enough noise from the diff to the chassis that we might feel like we’re at an EDC festival. And opting for stiffer or solid mounts? That’d be like cranking the volume up to 11 on a tinnitus remix. I can’t imagine your eardrums would be on board with that—they’d probably sue for emotional distress.
Here’s the next morning. Since we were dropping the entire subframe, we needed all the space in the garage. That meant pulling my Type R out to make room and repositioning the S2000 closer to the center.
The amount of dust that builds up is directly correlated to how much you ignore it, as if the dust is silently judging you every time you say, ‘I’ll deal with that later.’ It’s like the dust is saying, ‘You had one job, and I’ve just been waiting for you to notice me.’ The more you neglect it, the worse it gets—like a rebellious teenager, but instead of stealing your car keys, it’s quietly claiming your car and staging a protest in the form of dust.
By the time the sun finally decided to rise, we had the car perched on four jack stands, and let me tell you, the excitement was absolutely palpable—like, if enthusiasm were a tangible thing, we’d have been swimming in it! After a two-year hiatus, we were practically bursting to get our hands on his car again. This was THE moment we’d been anxiously waiting for, as if the fate of the universe depended on us wrenching on this thing. Rigby, however, doesn’t seem to share our excitement. (Rigby is my dog, by the way.)
This was it—this project wasn’t going to fizzle out like so many of his past ones had. No, we were in it for the long haul. We were sticking to our guns, determined to prove that splurging on all these pricey parts wasn’t a complete waste of money. We were actually going to see this thing through to the end! And once it’s done… well, with everything on the car refreshed, it’s going to last for years—or at least, that’s the plan. Fingers crossed!
We started by removing both rear wheels.
Then, moved on to removing the exhaust.
Underside shot of unbolting the exhaust.
With the exhaust now completely removed, the subframe can now easily be separated from the chassis.
Next, we decided to remove the brake calipers and hang them out of the way. A quick heads-up: you’ll still need to disconnect the rubber or stainless steel brake line (whichever you have) where it meets the chassis hard line. We chose to pull the calipers off because, frankly, the e-brake cables were more trouble than they were worth. It was easier to just unbolt the two caliper bolts holding them to the knuckle than deal with the hassle of the e-brake cables.
A little zip-zap with the electric ratchet, after initially breaking them loose with a manual ratchet, makes light work of unbolting the calipers.
Caliper can now slide off and be hung out of the way. (you’ll see a little further down how we hung it)
Now, unbolt the wheel speed sensor used for ABS.
Then unbolt the X2 10mm bolts that secure the sensor wiring to the upper control arm.
One.
Two.
Next, we removed the lower shock mount bolt.
Next, you’ll need to undo the brake line where it connects to the hard line. There’s no way around this, so be prepared to bleed your brakes after reassembly.
To prevent all of the brake fluid from draining out, I purchased these tapered silicone rubber plugs from Amazon—such a simple solution.
The passenger side is prepped and ready to go, so now it’s time to move to the driver’s side and repeat the same steps we just completed. You can see how the brake caliper is hung out of the way.
But before we make the switch, let’s take a moment to admire all that ‘junk in the trunk!’
Now we are onto the drivers side.
Now that everything has been removed and disconnected from the driver’s side, we’re ready to begin unbolting the subframe.
There are a total of 6 bolts that secure the subframe to the chassis. X4 19mm and X2 17mm
These bolts are bound to be a pain to break loose, especially if you’re in a moist climate. But lucky for us, we’re living in the Mojave Desert—the driest place on Earth! If you’re not so fortunate and rust is your constant companion, make sure to soak these bolts—not just the heads, but the threads where they meet the chassis—in Kroil (Google it) a few hours before attempting to remove them. Otherwise, you might end up snapping them, creating a whole new mess and turning this project into a much longer ordeal—weeks, maybe even months!
Once you’ve successfully broken all 6 bolts loose, take a jack and place it under the diff at the designated jacking point. Don’t lift the car off the jack stands, but apply enough pressure to take some of the load off the subframe bolts so you can remove them all.
The picture below should provide a clearer view of the jacking point I’m referring to.
With the jack in position and enough pressure applied to prevent the subframe from falling and crushing Ever, you can use an impact gun to make removing the 6 bolts a piece of cake.
Once all six bolts are removed, you can slowly lower the jack, and the subframe will come down with it. It actually stays pretty balanced if the jack placement on the diff is decent.
It’s worth mentioning that the charcoal canister has a tangle of plugs and hoses that need to be carefully removed to avoid damaging anything before lowering the subframe. If you’re not careful and accidentally damage something, you’ll likely end up with a Check Engine Light (CEL) when you fire the car back up, so take your time with all the connections. Since Ever is switching to a full standalone ECU, he won’t need any of those sensors or lines hooked up, so we just RTL’d them!
Lastly, don’t forget the two bolts securing the e-brake cables to the front part of the subframe. If you miss those, you’ll be scratching your head, wondering why the subframe won’t drop down, all while getting hung up on those stubborn e-brake cables.
With the subframe now on the ground you can begin by removing the metal panel on the top.
With that panel removed you can now more easily see what you’re doing.
With a closer view, you can see the charcoal canister directly in front of the driver’s side axle and the associated junction of connectors.
Here you can see Ever fiddling with it, trying to get everything removed.
Next, we’re going to unbolt the axles from the output shafts. By doing it this way, we can avoid messing with the large 36mm axle nut on the outboard side.
With all the bolts removed, you can now move on to the differential mounts that secure it to the subframe.
There are two mounts on the front side of the subframe. To remove them, we opted to undo the two 14mm bolts per side, which made it easier to gain more space for removing the differential mount brackets. This way, we could transfer the brackets to the new AP2 diff. Differentials are heavy and cumbersome to work with, so the key is to position them in the most ergonomic location to make the process easier.
There are two mounts at the rear of the subframe. For these, we simply removed the single nut, which allowed us to slide the differential out. Later, we could address removing the four bolts per side that secure the actual mounts to the subframe.
You can also see that we left the jack under the diff to keep it in place as we remove the bolts from the mounts. As shown below, we’ve already removed the four 14mm front bolts and the two 17mm rear bolts. Now, we can simply pull the diff forward, allowing it to roll with the jack while the subframe is restrained, and it will easily slide out of the rear mounts.
VIOLA! the diff is now removed.
Here it is more clear to see what we unbolted to remove the diff.
You will need to now begin the process of transferring over the diff brackets from the old diff (we just removed) to the new (to us) diff.
A couple of ugaduggas and you should be good. But if you want the actual torque specs, I’ll post them all below.
Below, you can see us using the impact gun to remove the bolts securing the diff brackets to the old diff.
The 1/2inch impact makes light work of this.
Below, you can now see Ever lining up the diff brackets onto the new diff.
With the brackets now secured you can move on to removing the factory diff mounts.
And installing the new Hasport mounts. It’s worth noting that we didn’t fully tighten the diff brackets or the Hasport mounts. This gives us some wiggle room when reinstalling the diff into the subframe, as the tolerances are much tighter with the aftermarket mounts.
The diff is now all prepped and ready to go back to its home in the subframe.
But first, we need to remove the factory diff mounts from the subframe and replace them with the new Hasport mounts.
X4 14mm bolts secure each side.
The electric ratchet didn’t have enough umph so we brought out the big guns!
With the bolts removed the mounts easily fall out of the subframe.
We opted to keep the sway bar attached to avoid removing one more component; however, this made it a bit challenging to access two of the 14mm bolts on the bottom of the mounts. While you could have easily reached them with a shallow 14mm socket on a ratchet, Ever wasn’t interested in that extra effort. Instead, he risked it all by using a slight angle of attack with his socket and zapping them off. It’s a risky move for an amateur since there’s a higher chance of rounding out the bolt head, but it’s nothing a pro like Ever can’t handle.
Okay, the Hasport mounts come with all the hardware necessary for installation. There are four hex head bolts for the two front mounts and eight regular bolts for the two rear mounts.
Now start installing the two rear mounts into the subframe.
Due to the added vibrations from the stiffer mounts, we recommend using thread locker (Loctite) on all the bolts for both the front and rear mounts.
Eagle-eyed readers might notice that Ever forgot to install the exhaust hanger on the inboard side of the passenger-side mount.
We now pull out the trusty electric ratchet again to quickly thread all the bolts in. Once again, we didn’t torque them to spec; instead, we relied on our experience to determine how tight to make them. However, I’ll post a picture with all the torque specs below.
Now tip the subframe upward like so.
Doing this will make it easier to slide the diff into the rear mounts.
With the diff now slid in, you can carefully begin threading in the bolts for the front mounts. Again, make sure to use some Loctite, and be cautious not to force the bolts in, as this could lead to cross-threading or stripping. This is why we left the front diff brackets and mounts loose enough to allow for some wiggle room, since there isn’t much play with the stiffer aftermarket mounts.
Go slow at first, and once you’re sure everything’s threaded correctly, grab the electric ratchet to quickly zip those bolts in. We’re already knee-deep in manual labor here, so using the electric ratchet saves us from adding extra manual labor on top of our manual labor!
Now the diff should be secured into the subframe. Again, we didn’t torque the front mount bolts; we just used our built-in arm torque wrench to cinch them down.
Now lay the subframe back down flat on the ground and install the X2 17mm nuts that secure the diff bracket to the rear mounts.
Also, take a look at the nifty exhaust hanger sitting at the bottom of the picture.
We now move on to reinstalling the axle spacers and tightening all 12 bolts to the output shafts.
And again, no torque specs here just experience.
At this point, we realized that we didn’t install the exhaust hanger.
This wasn’t the end of the world because you only need to remove the two inboard 14mm bolts, then place the exhaust hanger bracket flat against the rear mount and reinstall the two 14mm bolts.
With that error corrected, we have successfully completed the diff installation.
Now, it’s time to move on to the other Spoon goodies. Since we already installed Rigid Collars in the front, it only makes sense to add them to the rear as well.
See the 6 empty spots where the front Rigid Collars were removed?
These are a very straightforward install.
Make sure to use the anti seize provided by Spoon.
All six Rigid Collars are now in place and the whole thing is ready to get mated back to the chassis.
Sure, it would’ve been super baller to go all out with an ASM rear-reinforced subframe with added gussets, or even a J’s Racing subframe for that extra strength. Heck, we could’ve at least gone with a weld-on gusset kit, or at the very least, deep-cleaned the subframe and given it a fresh paint job. But with Ever only in town for five days, my Type R needing the garage back by sundown, and family time taking priority, we did what we could with what we had. If Ever somehow manages to rip out the control arm mounts from the subframe (though that’s highly unlikely at his skill level), we’ll revisit subframe reinforcement and clean it up down the road.
For now, our main goal is just to get the project finished and get him back on the track. It’s been a few years since his last track day, so the priority will be shaking off the rust—no personal bests on the horizon just yet! We’ll probably spend the first few track days working out the kinks and making sure everything’s reliable after the long downtime, the “heart transplant,” and all the other major changes we’ve made to the car.
Also, as promised, here are all the torque specs.
Now it’s time to jack up the subframe and bolt it back into the chassis. Due to the Spoon cover, we ran into some difficulty jacking up the subframe because you can no longer use the diff as a jacking point. So, we used a 2×6 to rest on the subframe itself. This did make the subframe a bit off-balance when lifting, but thankfully, there were two of us. Doing it solo would’ve been a real pain. With a stock diff cover, this project can be done on your own, but that cool Spoon cover adds a whole new level of complexity.
With the subframe now bolted in, you can really see how low that Spoon cover hangs!
Now it’s time for some more Spoon!
Yep, a Spoon Sports lower cross beam bar. Now, surprisingly, this was actually a necessity because the OEM bar had been ripped off the car by the previous owner. We figured there had been some kind of crash where they went up and over a curb, or maybe, in its past life, this car was hellaflush stance nation low. So, ever since Ever became the owner of this car, there hasn’t even been an OEM lower subframe bar.
But the crash wasn’t bad enough to bend the subframe, because the new bar bolted up perfectly. This was definitely something we were worried about in the back of our minds. We knew the bar had been ripped off because the bolts and remnants of the OEM one were still attached to the subframe.
And the final Spoon goodie of the day.. The Spoon center brace bar.
I love how some Spoon parts come with the certified badge. The only catch with this one is that when it’s installed, the badge faces upward, so you can’t even see it if you’re under the car.
Anyway, bing, bang, boom—there it is. A Spoon hat trick. Or a quartet, if you include the unseen Rigid Collars.
Looks pretty cool, huh?
I don’t care what anyone says—this diff cover is fucking sick! It’s a rare piece of JDM history that reflects the passion and innovation of Japanese automotive design. For decades, JDM parts have been celebrated for their unique styling and engineering excellence, often becoming coveted collector’s items. This diff cover not only enhances the performance of the vehicle but also represents a significant era in car culture, where enthusiasts sought to push the boundaries of performance and aesthetics. It’s a testament to the craftsmanship and dedication that has shaped the JDM landscape over the years.
And while it does hang a bit lower than the stock diff, as you can see below, it looks like the rear bar might hang just a tad lower.
Ever’s car is pretty low too.
And there it is, folks—we’ve finally got the car back on the ground and ready to roll! Honestly, I don’t know why it took us two years to get here, especially considering we knocked it out in about eight hours of total work in a single day. Let’s just say procrastination and lack of motivation are slippery slopes. It’s like falling out of your workout routine and gradually gaining weight. At first, it seems fine, but then you work out less, the weight creeps up, and suddenly, finding motivation feels impossible. You convince yourself that you just can’t squeeze in 30 minutes a few times a week because life is so busy, yet your screen time stats reveal 3–4 hours a day lost in the endless rabbit holes of the internet, hunting for your next dopamine hit, while your attention span rivals that of a toddler. And all the while, you reassure yourself that the dad bod is in, and hey—everyone loves a ‘husky’ dude these days, right?
Honestly, one of the biggest challenges we faced was the fact that he lives six hours away in Bumfuck, Arizona, and only visits a few times a year. While that distance felt like a significant obstacle, it turned out to be more manageable than we thought. During those eight hours spent working on the car, we took our time, savoring every moment together. We weren’t rushing; we were just enjoying each other’s company and doing what we love best: working on cars and talking shit about each other—or cringe YouTube sellouts.
What’s the most powerful takeaway? Never, ever lose your passion and drive for what you love. Yes, life will sometimes demand that you set it aside to deal with other responsibilities, but stoking that inner fire is what ignites your motivation to thrive—whether in your career, your personal life, or any pursuit you choose. The moment you let that passion slip away or doubt your ability to return to what you love after a break, you begin to fade as a person, succumbing to the all-too-familiar grind of adulthood. Don’t let it become a monotonous cycle of eating, sleeping, working, family, and repeating. Break free. Fight to keep your passion alive, and let it be the driving force that propels you forward!
Well, folks, here we are – after a two-year break, we’ve rekindled the fire to finally get this project across the finish line! But, to be real, don’t hold us to any set timeline – it’s easy to get sidetracked when there are so many other priorities around here, and with Ever being 400 miles away, well, that doesn’t help either. That said, I’m feeling a lot more hopeful now that we’ve just cleared the last big hurdle with the K24 S2000 project. The remaining tasks are definitely more manageable. The wiring harness/AEM infinity install doesn’t require me to reposition the car around the garage, no need to jack it up to finish the radiator plumbing, and thankfully, bolting on the header should be a breeze. We’re on the right track, and I’m excited to see it through!
I’m genuinely grateful for the handful of you who take the time to read my musings on life, personal challenges, car projects, and my honest thoughts. This blog isn’t about making money or trying to be the best. It’s about friendship, honesty, and staying committed. It’s about one person doing his best to help preserve some integrity in the car scene and make sure its passion is channeled in the right direction. Let’s stop doing it for the ‘Gram and start doing it for ourselves.
As always, I appreciate any feedback, comments, questions, or concerns—really, any kind of interaction at all. It’s a tough pill to swallow sometimes, but hearing from you keeps me motivated to keep writing. If I can help even one person rethink building a track-inspired car and actually get out there to use it on the track, that’s enough to keep me going. Your feedback means more than you know. Hit me up! Email me at Billy@Functiontheory.com, @Functiontheory on Instagram, or just comment below, and I will get back to you.