Elevate Your Driving Experience: Why a Racing Bucket Seat is a Game-Changer
If you’ve ever experienced the rush of a track event in a car with stock seats, you’ve likely struggled to stay stable during aggressive cornering. Bracing your knees against the door or center console might seem like the only solution, but it quickly becomes physically uncomfortable and mentally distracting, pulling your focus away from driving and impacting your performance.
A racing bucket seat isn’t just an upgrade—it’s a game-changer for any driver serious about performance. Unlike standard seats designed for everyday comfort, bucket seats are engineered with precision to optimize control, stability, and safety at high speeds. Their snug, ergonomic design cradles your body, keeping you securely planted even under extreme lateral G-forces. With no need to brace yourself against the car, causing you to tense up, you can focus entirely on the task at hand: mastering the track.
Stability is at the core of what makes a racing bucket seat indispensable. By securely holding your body in place, it eliminates unnecessary movement and helps you maintain a consistent driving posture. This added stability translates to better control over the steering wheel and pedals, allowing you to execute sharp maneuvers and hard braking with precision. Not only does this boost your confidence behind the wheel, but it can also shave valuable seconds off your lap times.
Safety is another critical advantage. Built with high-strength materials like carbon fiber or reinforced fiberglass, racing bucket seats are designed to withstand extreme forces in the event of a crash. Many models are compatible with multi-point harness systems, ensuring you remain securely restrained no matter how intense the drive. Furthermore, standard car seats with integrated airbags can pose a risk on the track. A hard curb impact could inadvertently deploy an airbag, potentially startling you or even leading to a loss of control. With a purpose-built bucket seat, you eliminate these risks, allowing you to push your limits with confidence and peace of mind.
Finally, a racing bucket seat delivers a deeply immersive and connected driving experience. By eliminating distractions like discomfort and instability, it strengthens the connection between you and your vehicle. Every turn, acceleration, and braking maneuver feels sharper and more intuitive, transforming the way you interact with the car. Whether you’re chasing lap records or simply enjoying spirited driving, the difference is undeniable. Once you experience the precision, and confidence of a racing bucket seat, you’ll wonder how you ever drove without it.
As Marlon spends more time on the track and hones his driving skills, he’s ready to move from novice to dedicated enthusiast. To match this shift, it’s time for an upgrade—enter the racing bucket seat, a game-changing addition that will take his driving experience from fun to truly intense.
In this post, we’ll dive into the details of installing a racing seat—what’s needed for a smooth installation and exactly how to do it. While it’s not a particularly difficult task, there are a few nuances worth mentioning to ensure everything goes right the first time. That way, you won’t be second-guessing yourself or wondering why your seat is sitting slightly off-center or how to get those darn slider rails to bolt to the base.
Choosing the right seat?
There’s no shortage of seat styles and manufacturers out there, so Marlon was definitely spoiled for choice. But, unfortunately for him, his close-knit group of friends has some very specific ideals when it comes to picking a seat. At first, Marlon was all about the Momo Daytona Evo, but I had to gently break the news: with his current skill level and lack of other safety mods, rocking a halo seat would probably make him look more like a poser than a pro. And then, of course, Patrick chimed in with his usual “Recaro > all” in the group chat, so Marlon didn’t really have much to argue with!
Marlon ended up finding a great deal through Touge Factory, with free shipping on a Recaro Profi SPG seat. Sure, the Pole Position is the popular pick, but if you’re focusing on performance, the SPG is the better option. The Pole Position is much more “comfortable”—or, let’s say, more tolerable for daily driving or those long trips to the track. On the other hand, the SPG is much tighter, and you might feel like you need to be a little leaner to fit in it; at 5’5” and 165 lbs, Marlon does have to make sure he never misses the gym again. However, the SPG offers superior bolstering and is slightly deeper, providing better support during aggressive driving—though it can make getting in and out a bit more challenging.
Side note: If you’re a bit taller or heavier, there’s also a Profi SPG XL, which is wider than the Pole Position and provides larger guys with the same increased bolstering and more track-focused design. Marlon, however, went with the regular Profi SPG, which is definitely on the thinner side.
It’s also worth noting that the Profi SPG is slightly taller than the Pole Position, which raises the harness strap holes a bit, making it more suitable for people wearing a HANS device. Again, this is just another example of how the SPG is more track-focused and enthusiast-friendly, compared to the more “run-of-the-mill” Pole Position, which might be better suited for someone who frequents more cars-and-coffee events than track days.
The Profi SPG also features a more structured, braced seat back (for lack of a better term), in contrast to the smooth, uninterrupted back of the Pole Position.
It’s not as common as it used to be, and it’s even less of a concern if you’re buying from a reputable online store like Touge Factory. However, there are still sellers out there—particularly from regions like China and Taiwan—trying to pass off counterfeit Recaro seats.
How to Verify the Authenticity of Recaro Seats
- Serial Number: Look for a serial number on the bottom frame of the seat. Genuine Recaro seats will have a serial number that can be verified through Recaro’s customer service.
- Material: Recaro seats often feature distinctive materials, such as black Avus or tan textured fabric, on the bottom of the seat. Fake seats may lack these unique materials.
- Sticker or Label: Genuine Recaro seats include a sticker or label with details like the seat’s origin (e.g., Recaro North America) and shipping information.
- No Wood or Springs: Authentic Recaro seats do not use wood or springs in their construction. These materials are often found in counterfeit seats.
- Check the Seller: Verify the seller’s reputation and authenticity. Purchase only from authorized Recaro dealers or reputable online retailers.
- Price: Be cautious of prices that seem too good to be true. Genuine Recaro seats are expensive, so an unusually low price could indicate a counterfeit product.
- Visual Inspection: Carefully inspect the seat’s craftsmanship, stitching, and overall quality. Genuine Recaro seats are known for their exceptional build quality.
Additional Tips for Verification
- Contact Customer Service: Reach out to Recaro’s customer service with the serial number to confirm the seat’s authenticity.
- Authorized Dealers: Use the Recaro website to find authorized dealers and trusted online retailers.
- Seller Reputation: Research the seller online and read reviews from previous customers to ensure reliability.
Final Advice
Always exercise caution when purchasing Recaro seats, especially from third-party sellers. Prioritize authenticity and quality to ensure your seat meets safety standards and provides the high-performance experience Recaro is known for.
The installation:
As we begin, it’s clear that Marlon’s car is, well, beyond filthy. This is thanks to a big off at his last track day a week ago, and being a busy guy, washing the car afterward wasn’t exactly at the top of his to-do list. He’s more focused on keeping the wife and family happy so he can get back out on the track. You know what they say—happy wife, happy life! So, let’s keep the “wash your damn car” comments to a minimum.
First things first: Since we’re dealing with electrical plugs—specifically an SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) connector—you must disconnect the battery before proceeding. This is basic safety, and it’s non-negotiable. If you don’t already know how to disconnect a battery, you probably shouldn’t be messing around with installing a seat in the first place.
Here is what his stock seat looks like.
Since this is technically a sports car, Subaru did add some bolstering to the stock seat, but it’s nowhere near enough needed for track use.
To remove the stock seat, start by tackling the rear seat bracket bolts. Slide the seat all the way forward to access and remove the two 12mm bolts securing the seat to the chassis.
ONE.
TWO.
With both rear bolts removed, now move to the front. You’ll have to slide the seat all the way to the backmost position to allow for the easiest access.
Three.
Four.
Once you’ve removed all four seat bolts, you’ll need to disconnect three plugs before you can remove the seat.
- Seat heater.
- SRS sensor.
- Seat belt sensor.
First, to make the process easier, activate the lever to adjust the seat back and fold it into a more acute angle. This will help the seat fit through the door opening more easily. Next, I used a rubber wheel chock to prop the seat up, making it easier to access underneath and disconnect the three sensors. This minimizes frustration by eliminating the need to balance the seat with one hand while trying to maneuver electrical connectors with the other.
When removing the seat, it’s crucial to pay close attention to the position of the metal brackets. A small misstep can lead to serious damage—these brackets can easily tear into or scratch your steering wheel, plastic interior pieces, or, worse, the door jamb or side skirt. Take your time and be cautious to avoid costly mistakes. I also recommend using thick old blankets in the door jamb area for added peace of mind. Fixing plastic interior pieces is far less troublesome and costly than having permanently removed the paint from your door jamb or putting deep scratches in your side skirt that mock you every time you open the door to get in.
With the seat now removed, you can see the wiring harness with three plugs. These are the plugs we needed to disconnect before taking the seat out.
SRS one is yellow as is all SRS wiring throughout the car. and the other two are white and off white (milky)
To complete the installation, we’ll also be splicing in a BRIDE side airbag canceller. While it’s not strictly necessary, it will prevent the SRS light from staying on permanently. It’s inexpensive and super easy to install, making it a no-brainer. Personally, I have a quirk about unnecessary dashboard lights being illuminated, so I always opt for this step.
Here’s a closer look at the orientation of the plugs on the bottom of the seat.
You will need to remove the seatbelt buckle from the seat and attach it to the provision on the new seat bracket. Unfortunately, the buckle is secured with a nut that holds it to a stud permanently attached to the factory seat rail. This means you’ll need to have sourced your own nut and bolt to secure the buckle to your new seat bracket.
Marlon, following our guidance has chosen to go with PCI seat rails. We use PCI on many of our cars and they have always worked flawlessly. I’m even using them on my FK8.
Now, I’m sure some of you might be wondering why we didn’t go with a fixed bracket setup. While it’s true that a fixed bracket can offer more stability, is lighter, and reduce the chance of seat movement in the event of a crash, we’re not too worried about it for our purposes. A fixed seat bracket keeps the seat securely in place, which is great for consistent control during aggressive driving. In contrast, sliding brackets, even if they allow for the slightest movement, could maybe affect your posture and stability when cornering or braking hard ( but this is a stretch). Plus, in the event of a crash, a fixed bracket is less likely to shift, providing better protection. A sliding seat, on the other hand, could potentially move, compromising safety.
But let’s be honest—it would take a pretty massive impact to actually cause a sliding bracket to fail or shift significantly. So, while fixed brackets have their benefits, they’re not a must-have for Marlon (or any of us, really). Sliders are convenient because they let you adjust your seat position for track days, then dial it back for comfort on the way home. They also make it easy for different drivers to hop in and out, whether you want a second opinion on the track or just need a break and want to relax while someone else takes the wheel on your long drive home.
To start, you’ll need to attach the sliding rails to the base using the hardware provided in the PCI kit. Important note: DO NOT fully tighten the bolts that secure the rails to the base just yet. Keep them loose so you can adjust the rails during the test fit of the seat brackets and seat. Keep in mind that every seat has slightly different overall widths where it attaches to the brackets. If you tighten the rails completely, you may not be able to fit the seat properly between them. Forcing the seat into place could lead to scratches on the seat, so it’s best to leave all the bolts slightly loose for now.
Also, you’ll need to slide each rail individually forward and backward to access the bolts, making it easier to thread the nuts onto them. I use a larger flathead screwdriver to release the rail slider and move the rail. This can be a bit tough, so try to use a longer tool for better leverage.
Next, use the custom low-profile hardware (the unique two bolt fasteners) included in the PCI kit to loosely attach the side brackets to the rails. Sliding the rails forward and backward will again be necessary to access the holes in the rails that the low-profile hardware secures. Again, be sure to use the tool of your choice to manually slide the rails back and forth.
Another important note: the PCI Bracket and rail kit (and most other brands on the market) doesn’t come with bolts to secure the seat to the rails, so you’ll definitely need to source some before starting this process. Thankfully, a few days prior to installation, I had asked Marlon to procure bolts, or else we might not have been able to install the new seat— and with our shitluck, likely discovering this after removing the factory seat. This is yet another reason to pre-assemble everything outside of the car, including fastening the seat to the brackets.
Voilà! Here’s the whole setup mocked up. Keep in mind that all nuts and bolts are only hand-tightened or barely snug at this stage, as we’re only test-fitting the seat in the car. Chances are, you’ll need to make some adjustments to the seat height, angle, or position/offset—whether shifting it left or right—using the three different mounting provisions on the PCI base.
Initially, we mounted the seat using the center holes on the base. However, during the test fit, we noticed the seat was positioned too far to the left, leaving barely any clearance between the seat and the door panel when closed. Additionally, Marlon immediately pointed out that he wasn’t centered with the steering wheel, which made his reach feel awkward and unnatural. We also realized we had been a bit ambitious with how low we mounted the seat, especially given Marlon’s height of 5’5″.
This required completely removing the seat from the mounts and unbolting the sliding rails from the base to move them over to the right by one hole, ensuring the seat would be more centered when mounted.
Ideally, you’d want to mount your seat as low as possible to lower the overall center of gravity. However, since this car is still driven on the street and visibility in blind spots is important, we did have to move the seat up one more hole, but it still ended up being lower than the stock seat even in its lowest position.
(Whoops, that bulky blanket on the roof we were using to protect the door jamb and side skirt isn’t ideal for taking good photos.)
That’s better.
With the test fit complete and the seat positioned in its desired mounting location, we can now tighten everything down with the seat removed from the car, and then move on to installing the SRS airbag canceller before permanently mounting the seat into the car.
As mentioned earlier, to prevent the SRS light from appearing on your dashboard, you’ll need to install an airbag canceller. These are inexpensive and easy to install. The purpose of the canceller is to trick the car into thinking the airbag plug is still connected to the OEM seat, when in fact it is not.
Now, there are a few ways to install this, and I’m probably going to go with the most controversial method. But if you read a little further, you’ll understand the reasons behind my madness.
I’m going to use a Scotchlok-style connector to install the canceller. Now, I know the popular opinion is that Scotchlok connectors are trash and that you’re a hack if you use them. But that’s mostly due to operator error—people using them in situations they were never meant for, having them fail, and then rushing to the internet to preach about how terrible they are. Naturally, this sparked a full-blown elitist smear campaign, with everyone acting like they’ve reached some superior level of wiring wisdom and are too good for them. But in reality, these connectors do exactly what they’re supposed to do and can be really handy when used properly. But hey, don’t let that stop the internet from looking down on you, it will be our little secret.
Scotchlok connectors are often considered unreliable for several reasons:
- Poor Electrical Connection: While Scotchlok connectors are designed to make a quick connection without stripping wires, they can sometimes create a weak or inconsistent electrical contact. This happens because the metal connector only makes partial contact with the wire, leading to potential resistance or poor conductivity.
- Damage to Wires: The way Scotchlok connectors work is by piercing the insulation of the wire when you close the connector. In some cases, this can cause damage to the wire or lead to corrosion over time, especially in environments with moisture.
- Corrosion Risk: If the connector isn’t properly sealed, moisture can enter, leading to corrosion. This corrosion can degrade the connection and cause electrical issues, particularly in automotive or outdoor applications.
- Inconsistent Quality: The quality of Scotchlok connectors can vary depending on the manufacturer and the materials used, leading to variability in performance. Some lower-quality connectors might not make a solid connection, leading to failures.
- Not Ideal for High-Current Applications: Scotchlok connectors are generally fine for low-current, low-voltage applications, but they are not ideal for high-current systems, where a more secure, soldered or crimped connection is preferred.
Scotchlok and other ‘Insulation Displacement Connectors’ (IDC) definitely have their issues, but so does everything when operator error is involved, and these problems are almost always the result of mistakes during application. Whether it’s choosing the wrong part, picking the wrong wire gauge, using the wrong tool, or simply being too lazy to apply proper strain relief—there’s no shortage of ways to mess it up
The key here is that these connectors require a ‘parallel’ clamping force to work properly. But of course, people think your average run-of-the-mill pliers will do the job, and surprise, they don’t. Instead, they misalign the wire guide, mess up the contact, and essentially destroy the connector’s integrity. Using basic pliers to apply IDC/Scotchlok connectors is like trying to fix a leaky pipe with duct tape—sure, you can do it, but it’s not going to last.
When used correctly, though, an IDC/Scotchlok connector makes a secure connection and keeps the stranded conductors intact. But hey, who has time for that when it’s easier to sound cool and like you know what you’re talking about online by saying SolDeRiNg iS BeSt and you’re a peasant if you don’t.
Everything I’ve mentioned above is true, but like most things in life, there’s always a time and place for them. I’m not suggesting these connectors should be used for wiring harnesses, ECUs, critical sensors, fuel pumps, or anything else where intermittent power loss could cause catastrophic damage to your car. However, for low-voltage, low-amperage, non-vital electrical connections, they will work just fine.
And lastly, but probably the most important reason for us choosing to go with Scotchlok connectors over butt connectors or the ever-popular soldering is that Scotchlok connectors allow us to keep his wiring harness intact by not having to cut off the plug to splice the canceller inline in the harness. This allows him to easily reinstall his seat and completely return his car to stock form when it’s time to trade in the BRZ and upgrade to the Final Edition A90 Supra… Hey, a guy can dream, right.
After that long-winded justification for using Scotchlok connectors, I’m sure some of you are still worried, especially since we’re using them on the SRS system, fearing premature airbag deployment due to a bad connection or improper installation. But don’t fret—by installing the canceller, all we’re doing is tricking the car into thinking your stock seat is plugged in and that you’re sitting in it, so the side curtain airbag will deploy if you crash. Without the canceller, the side airbag wouldn’t deploy in a crash because the car wouldn’t register someone sitting in the seat. If the Scotchlok connector does develop a connection issue, the worst that will happen is the SRS light will illuminate on your dash. If that happens, you can easily access the wiring harness and canceller, and just install another Scotchlok connector.
Before installing the Recaro seat, we’ll weigh both to determine the actual weight savings. Below, you can see a better picture of the OEM seat, which you can compare to the Recaro images above.
Here is Marlon’s weight: 165.5 lbs.
Here is his weight while holding the complete OEM seat, including rails, brackets, and sliders, minus the seatbelt buckle installed on the PCI bracket: 203.6 lbs.
Lastly, his weight while holding the Recaro with all attached brackets, rails, and sliders is 198.7 lbs.
So, let’s do some math to make it clear for everyone. 203.6 (Marlon’s weight holding the stock seat) minus 165.5 (Marlon’s weight alone) gives us a total of 38.1, meaning the OEM seat weighs 38.1 lbs.
And then;
198.7 (Marlon’s weight holding the Recaro seat) minus 165.5 (Marlon’s weight alone) gives us a total of 33.2, meaning the Recaro weighs 33.2 lbs.
- OEM seat: 38.1 lbs.
- Recaro Seat: 33.2 lbs.
Wow, the overall weight savings is only 4.9 lbs? That’s honestly surprising, especially considering how light the bare Recaro seat was on its own. I’m sure we could’ve saved more weight if we had gone with fixed brackets instead of sliding rails, but as we’ve mentioned before, having sliders is just so convenient!
Sure, weight savings is nice, but this modification should focus more on the stability it provides, improved driver positioning, and a lower overall center of gravity. Anything beyond that, like weight savings, is just icing on the cake.
Here is is installed in the car.
The iconic white lettering.
Looks great and feels even better knowing that he’s progressed his skills to the point where a fixed-back racing bucket became a necessary upgrade.
Here’s a glimpse of how much lower the seat could be mounted. If Marlon weren’t so vertically challenged, we’d really be able to take full advantage of that sweet, sweet lowered center of gravity.
Despite Marlon’s ‘vertically challenged’ status, we still managed to mount the seat lower than the stock one—even with the OEM adjustment cranked all the way down! It was still a win, as we got to take advantage of a lower center of gravity. But if we went any lower, Marlon would’ve had a hard time seeing over the dashboard!
Installing a racing bucket seat is a legitimate game-changer. Even in a stock car, the benefits are immediate and undeniable. But let’s be brutally honest: if you’re new to HPDEs, only plan on hitting the track once or twice a year, and couldn’t care less about improving your lap times—just chasing clout to say you “track” your car—you’re wasting your time. A racing seat isn’t for posers. Save yourself the effort and stick to sitting comfortably in your stock seats while pretending you’re part of the scene.
And then we have the worst offenders: the “motorsport-inspired” wannabes. If this is you, stop lying to yourself and everyone else. You’re not fooling anyone. Slapping a racing bucket seat into your show pony that never sees the track doesn’t make you cool—it makes you look like a desperate try-hard. Every real enthusiast can see right through your cringe-worthy attempt to fake legitimacy. On top of that, racing seats are miserable for daily use. They’re uncomfortable, inconvenient, and make getting in and out of your car a chore. Bonus points for how quickly you’ll destroy the bolsters with your clumsy exits.
There are plenty of other seat upgrades you can do for your show-stopper, daily driving, clout-chasing build. You could go with rare JDM or UKDM OEM seats, upgrade to seats from a higher-end make or model, pick any other reclinable aftermarket seat, or even get your current seats reupholstered in something over the top like alligator skin. And hey, why stop there? Go all out and outfit your car with a BDSM chair if attention is all you’re after.
Seriously though, a fixed-back racing bucket should be reserved for true enthusiasts—people who actually push their cars to the limit and need the functionality, not just the look.
Here’s the harsh truth: a racing bucket seat isn’t a badge of honor. It’s not a participation trophy for pretending to care about motorsports. It’s a functional tool for serious drivers who demand performance—not a cosplay prop for Instagram. So unless you’re hitting the track regularly and actually using the equipment for its intended purpose, do us all a favor and keep your delusions of motorsport grandeur to yourself.
If my last few paragraphs offended you, it’s probably because you saw yourself in them. But trust me, that wasn’t my goal. I wrote it that way to help guide those who might be a little off course. Social media has a way of spreading misleading ideas about what you “need” to be cool or legitimate as an enthusiast.
I want you to know that it’s perfectly okay to be passionate about cars without having a fixed-back racing seat or ever setting foot on a track. Being a car enthusiast isn’t about checking off a list of trendy modifications—it’s about enjoying your car in a way that makes sense for you. Don’t feel pressured to follow the crowd or prove yourself with gear that doesn’t suit your build or lifestyle.
As always, thank you so much for taking the time to read my ramblings. I know they can come across a bit sharp at times, but I promise they come from the best intentions. I just tend to take a firm tone to really drive the point home. If you have any questions, comments, criticisms, or just want to say hi, please don’t hesitate to reach out! You can email me at Billy@FunctionTheory.com, message me on Instagram @FunctionTheory, or simply leave a comment below—I’ll be sure to respond.