Billy
If you’re like me or any of my friends, you’re probably obsessed with the EVS Tuning GTLM Aero Mirrors. Look, we love to roast people around here for turning their daily drivers into racecar wannabes—but when it comes to aftermarket mirrors and big brake kits, this is where we make an exception. Let me explain why below.
First up, BBKs. I’m a sucker for some serious big brakes. When someone drops that kind of cash on a set, it’s usually because they need it—like they’re tracking their car hard. Sure, there are those show-car folks slapping AP Racing brakes on their garage queens just to flex, but let’s be real: those people aren’t pretending to be functional—they’re in it to show off, and that’s the whole game in that scene. Your average enthusiast chasing clout on social media isn’t shelling out for high-dollar brakes that scream “motorsport” unless they’re legit or at least on their way to being legit. So, nine times out of ten, I’d bet someone with a BBK is hitting the track more often than they’re posing at a Cars & Coffee and likely has a low follower count on social media.
Second, aftermarket mirrors—not just caps or blue-tinted stick-ons, but a full swap to a whole new unit. Yeah, you could again argue show cars rock aftermarket mirrors too, but that’s only to keep up with the competition, hear me out. Like BBKs, most regular enthusiasts aren’t dropping big money on mirrors that don’t do a damn thing beyond looking cool. In fact, they’re often a downgrade: worse blind spots and tougher to see out of. Out of all the mods you could pick, mirrors are arguably the least functional. Here at FunctionTheory, we should hate them on principle. But you can’t deny it: aftermarket mirrors completely transform a car’s look and truly set you apart from the herd. Those are the two exceptions I’ll always make. Chances are, if you spot someone with a big brake upgrade or aftermarket mirrors—better yet, both—and they’re not a show car guy, they’re more likely to swap track day war stories with you than brag about their parking spot at the last C&C meet.
I’ve been hooked on the EVS GTLM Aero Mirrors since they dropped, not just because they look fucking sick or are damn near identical to the mirrors on modern GTLM race cars. But because it’s refreshing to see a whole different approach in design to aftermarket mirrors. What’s cooler than having racecar parts on your own car? For years, Craft Square owned the aftermarket mirror game. They dominated Super GT, touring car series, and endurance racing back in the early 2000s. JDM enthusiasts loved them, using them to perfect that “racecar” look. But around 2010, as aerodynamics started dictating performance more than ever—think swan-neck wings shaking up the dark arts of downforce—race teams began hunting for mirrors that were more cutting-edge to squeeze out every ounce of performance.
Don’t get me wrong, Craft Square’s minimalistic design aged very well. Their smaller, sleeker profile cut wind resistance compared to stock mirrors, and that compact shape gave drivers a better view of track limits and apexes. Even today, they’re still relevant—older enthusiasts have passed down the obsession to a new generation, keeping the trend alive. But racing doesn’t stand still. In the relentless pursuit of lap time’s, teams pushed for even more refined mirror designs—enter modern aero mirrors.
Aero mirrors, like the ones EVS emulates, are designed to interfere with airflow as little as possible. They reduce drag and optimize airflow for stability and efficiency. Their shape and mounting—often higher and tighter to the body—have evolved through wind-tunnel testing and real-world racing data, like what you’d see in IMSA or Le Mans prototypes.
For me, that’s what makes the EVS GTLM mirrors so sick: they’re not just a style flex; they’re a nod to where motorsport tech is today. And just as race cars evolve, so must the enthusiasts who try to imitate them.
To put it simply, just as traditional wings were replaced by swan-neck designs—which are now all the rage among enthusiasts—the “Aero Mirror” will likely follow the same path, gradually replacing the tried-and-true Craft Square design as the new must-have trend.
I bet you’re asking yourself, if these mirrors are so sick, why did I choose to go with the Spoon mirrors on my Type R over the EVS GTLM Aero Mirrors?
Sadly, the way my FK8’s mirror mount is apparently too special for EVS to bless with their glorious GTLM Aero Mirrors. Meanwhile, the 2023-and-up Type R crowd—those smug FL5 owners—get to bask in the aero glory. (Is this the universe telling me to trade up, or just another kick in the shins?) So here I am, stuck living vicariously through my buddies as they slap EVS mirrors on their S2000s and BRZs like it’s no big deal. The second I heard Evasive was making Aero Mirrors for the BRZ chassis, I basically bullied Marlon into buying them—“You have to, they look so sick you’d be doing a disservice to the community by not!”—and, as you’ll see below, they absolutely don’t disappoint.
So if it wasn’t obvious, in this blog post we will be going through the process of installing EVS GTLM Aero Mirrors on Marlon’s BRZ.
We started our morning around 10:00 AM, just after Marlon dropped his son off at school. By the time he arrived at my house, I had already made the executive decision to make the installation a bit smoother by keeping his car out of the garage and instead backing it into the driveway. This decision made a big difference for a few key reasons.
First, my driveway has a slight incline, so backing the car in meant the doors would naturally stay open rather than fighting against gravity if we had pulled in forward. This small detail made the install much smoother, as we didn’t have to constantly hold the doors open while working.
Second, working outside the garage in the driveway gave us significantly more space to move around the car. Inside the garage, we would’ve been limited by walls, toolboxes, and storage clutter—not to mention Ever’s K24 S2000, which was hibernating in there. With the car in the open, we had full access to the doors without worrying about hitting anything, allowing us to remove the door panels with ease.
Making that executive decision ultimately made the entire process far more comfortable and efficient. Instead of squeezing into tight spaces or working at awkward angles, we had room to maneuver, lay out tools, and access everything we needed without obstruction. However, while working outside gave us plenty of space, it also came with a downside—the harsh morning sun.
With no walls or overhead cover to diffuse the light, the strong sunlight created harsh shadows that made it tough to capture great photos. The extreme contrast washed out details in some shots while making others too dark where shadows fell. It was a constant battle trying to find the right angles to avoid glare and uneven lighting.
That said, it wasn’t an impossible hurdle to overcome. With some patience and a bit of repositioning, we managed to work around the lighting challenges and still got some solid shots. It just took a little extra effort to get the right angles and adjust for the harsh conditions, but in the end, it didn’t slow us down too much.
In my opinion, the BRZ’s OEM mirrors aren’t that bad or an ugly design, but for sure Aero Mirrors are going to look a lot better.
Starting off, you’ll need to remove the door panel—not because the mirror unbolts from behind it, but because you need to unplug the mirror’s wiring harness. Yep, that’s the only reason the door panel has to come off (on both sides).
As you’ll see later, the mirrors actually unbolt from the outside of the car. By removing a plastic trim piece at the base of the mirror, you’ll gain access to the three bolts needed for removal.
To remove the door panel successfully, you must first take out three Phillips head screws hidden behind two separate plastic covers.
In the photo below, you’ll see where to pry up and remove the first of the two plastic covers.
With the cover popped off using a flathead screwdriver, you’ll now see two of the three Phillips head screws that need to be removed.
Use a screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws. Space is tight, so I’d skip the bulky drill or impact driver—they could damage the door panel if the chuck rubs against it while spinning, given the awkward angle parallel to the panel. The screws aren’t long anyway, and as I always say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You don’t want to scuff up your door panels over something this avoidable—nothing kills the mood faster than turning a simple mirror install into a regret-filled door panel repair or replacement.
The third and final screw hides behind the door handle, as shown below. Just like before, carefully pry off the plastic cover to reveal the last Phillips head screw that needs to come out.
Again, we used the old-fashioned manual screwdriver, mainly because we didn’t have an electric one within arms reach. However, if you did have one, you could use it here, as there’s nothing the drill head (chuck) would rub against due to its perpendicular positioning relative to the door panel.
Once you’ve removed all three screws, place your hand where Marlon’s is positioned below. It’s the only spot with enough material to grip and start peeling the panel off the door.
He grabs it with both hands and gives a quick, sharp tug, popping the first couple clips free from the door with ease.
From there, work your way clockwise around the bottom of the door panel, popping off the other clips.
Once you’ve freed the panel along most of its outer edges, slide your hand toward the center to release the remaining clips. Reaching in like this prevents snapping the plastic, especially near the clip mounts. Newer cars make it easier—the door panel’s plastic is less brittle and more forgiving. On anything five years or older, though, take care: that plastic gets crack-prone where the clips lock it to the door.
Once all the clips are free, grip the panel like Marlon does below and lift straight up. The top edge hooks into a lip on the door, so unhook it there before pulling the panel fully off.
With the door panel free from the door, unplug a few wires next.
The first is the connector for the windows and locks.
The second is the door courtesy light.
Once both connectors are unplugged, you’ll have enough maneuverability to shift the door panel aside. We skipped detaching the door release cables from the handle—there’s enough slack to rest the panel on the ground without touching them. You’re only pulling the panel off to reach the mirror’s wiring harness. Once that’s disconnected, you can snap the panel back into place if you choose.
Next, step outside the car and use a plastic pry tool to pop off the lower mirror cap, revealing the three 10mm bolts holding the mirror to the door.
A plastic pry tool is essential. A metal screwdriver could slip and scratch your car’s paint—sure, you might have steady enough hands to use a screwdriver, but why risk it when plastic’s safer?
Here’s a better look at what you’re trying to achieve. Don’t worry too much about preventing damage to the lower caps; they are only 10 bucks brand new from Subaru and are not painted from the factory. CLICK HERE for link to OEM part.
With the plastic cap popped off you can see the three 10mm bolts.
Just like we did in the interior, go easy with an electric tool here—the spinning head/chuck could graze the mirror and scuff the paint. Not a disaster, honestly, since you’re ditching these mirrors anyway. Still, keep them pristine for when you inevitably slap the OEM ones back on to trade this heap for the 2025 GR Supra Final Edition. Nothing says ‘responsible car guy’ like a spotless handoff to the dealer for maximum trade-in value. wink
No need to stress too much about damaging the upper mirror caps—it’s not the end of the world. But if you do mess them up, don’t sweat it—they’re only $36, paint-matched straight from Subaru. You can CLICK HERE to order a replacement; just remember to pick your car’s color when you do.
To ease access to the lone 10 mm bolt, fold the mirror in for a straighter shot at it.
Make sure you’re gripping that mirror tightly when you remove the final bolt—you don’t want it crashing down and shattering, cursing you with seven more years of bad luck. You’ve already got enough misfortune from rolling the dice on that Boxer-engine BRZ; no need to tempt the gods any further.
You’ll notice below that the plug wrapped in red tape is the one to disconnect from the interior door side—Subaru seems to use red tape to mark the mirror’s wiring harness.
Now just pull the mirror’s wiring harness through the door and out the other side. We opted to leave the door panel off in case there were any hang-ups while pulling the mirror’s harness out. But having gone through it now, the wiring harness slides through easily without needing any help. So, like I mentioned earlier, you could technically pop the door panel off, unclip the mirror harness, and reinstall the panel right away. Or, for peace of mind, leave it off until you’ve finished the whole install—the choice is yours.
There you go—one Subaru BRZ mirror off. It’s really that easy.
Here’s the mounting spot. Clear out the years of dirt and debris first—spray the door area with a quick-detail spray and wipe it down with a damp microfiber towel to avoid scratches.
Next, you’ll want to install the so-called “weather stripping” that came with the mirrors. Honestly, it’s just cheap foam tape—let’s not kid ourselves. They couldn’t be bothered to source a decent material that might actually stand a chance against the elements. This flimsy junk will rot away in no time, especially if your car’s stuck outside taking a beating from the weather.
It wasn’t clear whether the weather stripping should go on the mirror base or the door, since the kit came with no instructions—aside from how to assemble the mirrors. That left us guessing the best way to stick it on. We found that applying it to the door worked easiest.
Now we are ready to assemble the mirror and install it on the car. Use the supplied hardware and some blue Loctite to attach the mirror base to the mirror stand. That’s what I’ll call it!
Use an Allen key to secure the two supplied hex bolts. Since no torque specs are provided, I relied on my experience to judge how tight they should be. Keep in mind, though, that the mirrors are made of magnesium, a lightweight metal that’s also brittle. Magnesium’s low density—about two-thirds that of aluminum—makes it great for reducing weight, but it’s prone to cracking under stress. Another issue is that steel screws are much stronger than magnesium. Under clamp load, the softer magnesium can gradually deform and flow away from the fastener, potentially loosening the joint over time.
With the driver’s side mirror assembled, we head back out to install the pièce de résistance.
Hot damn are we excited! As he positions the mirror closer to the door we are beginning to get a good idea of what it will look like and both of us can’t stop smiling because of how good it’s going to look.
Carefully line up the three holes in the mirror’s base with the threaded holes in the door. Then manually start all three bolts to ensure you don’t drop or damage the new mirror or the door’s paint.
Threading the single bolt shown in the picture below is tedious because there’s not much room. The mirror stand is non-modular and makes for a tight squeeze.
With that singular bolt now manually threaded in, Marlon can move on to the two foremost bolts.
Tighten all three bolts evenly to ensure the mirror base plate sits flush against the door.
The only tool I had that fit the single-bolt side was a standard Allen wrench, which meant tons of turning. But with the mirror stand blocking it, you couldn’t rotate more than 190 degrees before having to yank the wrench off and reset. Plus, the supplied bolts are long, and since they’re button-head hex bolts, twisting them by hand is a no-go. So, you’re stuck tediously cranking that Allen wrench the whole way.
Don’t worry, the mirror base plate fits snugly to the contours of the door lines. The bolts just weren’t snugged down when this picture was taken.
Below, you’ll see what I mean. The aerodynamic shape of the mirror stand sits so close to the bolt that a ratchet with a hex socket can’t fit, slowing you down. You can’t even flip the Allen wrench upright to manually spin the bolt faster.
With the three bolts snug but not fully tightened—just evenly secured—you can see how much tighter the gap between the mirror base and the door already looks. Don’t worry; it gets even better, as you’ll see later in this post.
As he tightens the top forward bolt, that gap starts to vanish completely. You’ve got to give Evasive props for nailing such a tight fit, especially along the door’s body line.
Now look, there’s not even a gap, and it looks better than the OEM mirror fitment.
So sick!
We couldn’t resist—we had to gently close the door before fully securing the panel, just to sneak a proper look with the door fully closed!
Ok, we may have spent a little too much time savoring how sick the car looked with the new mirror on, but okay, that’s enough—let’s keep going.
Now it’s time to resecure the door panel. First, check that no white clips are still attached to the door—if any are, remove them and snap them back into their spots on the panel. Next, reconnect both harnesses you unplugged earlier. Then, lift the panel up onto the top lip where it rests, and gently but firmly press around the edges to lock each clip into the door. Make sure they’re all fully seated (some light taps with your fist may be necessary), or you’ll be cursed with rattles once you hit the road.
Then, once you are certain they are clipped in, you can secure the three screws that were previously removed.
and don’t forget to put the plastic trim covers back over the screws.
You can just make out Marlon’s ear-to-ear cheesin’ grin as he stares at the mirror through the window, practically buzzing with delight. The satisfaction with these bad boys is downright thrilling—pure, unbridled euphoria. Perfection. It was everything he had hoped for and more.
I was dead set on capturing the sheer magnificence of these gorgeous mirrors—their sleek lines, flawless finish, and that racecar feel they give the car. But the shot fell flat thanks to a messy, contrasting background that just didn’t play nice. Instead of letting those beauties shine against a clean, complementary backdrop, the cluttered chaos behind them stole the focus and dulled their glory.
HMMM, maybe changing the focal range would help? Better, but still not great.
Maybe if I reframe the shot.
Eww, I don’t even know what this one is.
Darn Marlon and his car with that blinding, reflective paint job. Angie’s Fit and the trash cans lined up for pickup keep yanking your focus away. Sometimes, though, you’ve just got to roll with what you’re dealt. Sadly, we chose to swap the mirrors outside the garage, which made snagging a truly jaw-dropping shot of them a real hassle.
This one works great, though. That dark, even background creates a perfect contrast, fully showcasing the mirror’s beauty.
This shot captures some real emotion too, and it absolutely nails the spotlight on that carbon fiber mirror housing. Too bad my rookie self caught myself in the reflection—way to go, amateur photographer.
While I was trying to snap some killer photos of the driver’s side we’d just finished, Marlon had already jumped to the passenger side, tearing through the removal process faster than a one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest.
As Marlon went to the assembly table (the back of my Type R), I ran back to snap a few more of the assembly process.
I love how well these are packaged—the custom foam inserts are a nice extra touch to ensure these beauties arrive at your house just as flawlessly as they left Evasive. Evasive does brag about packaging the mirrors in-house to guarantee quality.
Pro tip: The bases fit onto the mirror stands either way, so double-check you have the right orientation before securing them with the two supplied hex bolts.
All assembled and ready to mount on the door. Don’t forget to add some Loctite to the two bolts securing the base to the mirror stand.
I probably should’ve moved my daily out of the driveway so we didn’t have to walk all the way around the BRZ—man, that door is dangerously close to dinging my car door.
Here’s Marlon again, lining up the three holes and starting to thread that tedious single bolt.
Just like the other side, thread all three screws in evenly to ensure the base sits flush against the door.
Looking good!
Time to give all three bolts their final tighten to our preferred level. Remember, no torque specs are provided, so we’re leaning on my experience again.
HURRY UP MARLON! I want to see what the car looks like with both Aero Mirrors installed.
Again, back over to the driver’s side to try and capture the beauty of it.
OMG! We’re so close; he just needs to reinstall the door panel, and then we will finally see the fruits of our labor (or really, his labor).
Since I didn’t catch it on the first side, I wanted to show you what I meant about checking for any white clips still in the door. See below how we’re using a specific tool to pop out the clips left in there.
These are the clips, and they all need to be fully secured back into the door panel slots before you reattach the panel to the door.
Again, here are two more clips that stayed in the door and didn’t come out with the panel when it was pulled away from the door.
And again, see the tool that makes removing them a breeze.
Now that all the white clips are removed from the door and back in their slots in the door panel, you can reattach the panel to the door and finish this installation. But first, make sure you’ve reattached the wiring harnesses you unplugged, then reinstall the three screws and the plastic trim pieces that cover them.
Wing buddies!
Okay, hurry up and close the door!
AWWWWW YEAAAA! Is that a fire-breathing GT3 racecar sitting in my driveway, or just my friend’s mildly modified BRZ? I can’t tell, and honestly, my neighbors can’t either—send help!
Man, I’m so jealous they don’t make these for my FK8. I’ve heard some people have managed to slap the universal ones onto their FK8s, but I’m not about to mess with all that retrofitting nonsense—I just want it to work without the hassle.
And a quick impromptu photoshoot on my street.
Don’t worry, I’ve already given Marlon plenty of flak for slapping on that ginormous rear wing without any front-end aero tweaks to balance the car out after adding that huge thing.
From this angle, though, I gotta admit it does look really good.
The mirrors only come in two colors: black or silver, all with a clear-coated dry carbon fiber housing. Since Marlon’s car is dark grey—or, as the fancy folks call it, Magnetite Grey Metallic—he wasn’t sure which to pick. Either would have looked sharp, in my opinion, but he went with silver, and it contrasts nicely with the car. It really brings out the aero design’s intricate details on the stand and makes the carbon housing pop as a killer focal point. Sure, black might have been a sleek, understated vibe, but these mirrors deserve to shine—hiding their sexiness in black just wouldn’t do them justice.
All said and done, these mirrors were hands-down the easiest—and dare I say, most thrilling—thing we’ve installed on Marlon’s car yet! If you follow the blog, you know any mod on this beast usually drags us through at least eight hours of chaos—my lack of experience with this chassis, those difficult-to-access parts, or the inevitable hunt for missing bits that should have come with the aftermarket parts. So, this? A total game-changer. I could happily install these things all day long for the rest of my life. Unfortunately, that can’t be said for most everything else we’ve done to his car thus far.
Even with an impromptu photoshoot thrown in, we blasted through it in just under two hours—pausing to snap pics of the steps, which usually slows us to a crawl, and still finishing with time to spare. I’m telling you, if you’re gunning for it, you could knock both sides out in an hour flat—it’s that easy! The door panels practically pop off, a shocking breeze compared to the usual headaches this car dishes out for aftermarket installs. We were enthusiastic the whole time.
Huge thanks to Evasive for engineering these beauties to install so perfectly—no fuss, just pure joy. The quality and craftsmanship? Absolutely stellar—I’m blown away. Yeah, the weather stripping’s a bit meh, but come on—these are race car parts! Keeping the elements out isn’t normally a concern on cars that only see the track. We’re just grateful to have such a smooth win for once!
Hold up! You didn’t seriously think these mirrors wouldn’t have a single downside, did you? Well, buckle up—I’ve got some bad news. Even though Evasive engineered these pretty darn well for a small aftermarket company, they’re nowhere near engineered to the extent of your OEM mirrors and, without a doubt, are going to be a downgrade in overall functionality.
Here’s the rundown of what you’re in for:
- Vibration City: These things shake like an earthquake, especially once they get worn in. Some folks have even tried securing the glass to the carbon housing with tape to minimize the vibrations—yep, it’s that bad.
- Easy Folding: No matter how hard you crank that single hex bolt anchoring the housing to the stand, it’s still going to move. Give it time, and the mirror will skew just enough to drive you crazy, forcing you to reposition it over and over. But don’t tighten too much or you’ll crack your carbon fiber.
- Lost Tech Perks: Depending on your car model—sorry, Marlon—you might ditch those handy blind spot sensors. The heated mirror feature? Gone, too. Electronic adjustment? Nope, you’re going to need your passenger to adjust the mirror on their side for you. Not a dealbreaker, but it’s another little annoyance to weigh before you buy.
- Weather Stripping Woes: Like I said before, that “weather stripping” is a joke—think soggy foam, not a seal. Don’t even dream of hitting it with a pressure washer unless you want a swamp inside your door.
- Dreadful Visibility: Sorry, but if you’re someone who uses your mirrors as a crutch while driving, then I’m sorry to say, you’ll likely end up hitting something.
So yeah, these mirrors might look sick—but these quirks? They’ll make your life a living hell if you plan on using your car every day, say for, I don’t know, plebeian tasks like getting to and from work or running errands. But don’t forget: impracticality isn’t some petty flaw—it’s the goddamn cornerstone of fashion, a middle finger you wave with a smirk while the normies gawk. Who gives a flying fuck if you can’t see jack shit through them? You’re gonna roll up looking like a stone-cold legend, and that’s the damn end of it. Visibility? Screw that noise—it’s for suckers when you’re this outrageously fabulous.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read my blog post! I hope it was helpful and that you picked up a thing or two along the way. When it comes to aftermarket mirrors, I want to emphasize that the issues I mentioned—like poor visibility, shaking/vibrating, and the loss of safety features, electronics, and heating—are universal drawbacks you’ll encounter with any aftermarket option, not just the EVS GTLM Aero Mirrors. These trade-offs are simply part of the deal when you step away from OEM designs.
That said, I want to again justify aftermarket mirrors, and here’s why: despite their functional shortcomings, they bring a unique style that’s hard to resist. The EVS GTLM Aero Mirrors, in particular, stand out as a top-tier choice in the aftermarket world. They’re well-designed and high quality, far surpassing many other aftermarket options—though, to be fair, they still don’t hold a candle to the seamless integration, functionality, and luxury of OEM mirrors. But let’s be real: aftermarket mirrors are all about looking cool, and not everyone is willing to ditch the comfort and features of OEM mirrors just for aesthetics—especially when these stylish upgrades often come with a hefty price tag.
To sum it all up, even though it goes against the ethos and principles we hold so dear: aftermarket mirrors, when done right, are undeniably boss. And among them, the EVS GTLM Aero Mirrors take the cake. So, while I’d normally stick to the practicality of only doing “functional” modifications, aftermarket mirrors, for me and for all of my friends, get a pass just because it takes a special kind of commitment to want to rock aftermarket mirrors, especially if you’re using the car as your daily.
As always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, or just want to call me out for being a hypocrite, feel free to reach out via email at Billy@Functiontheory.com, DM me on Instagram @Functiontheory, or leave a comment below this post—I’ll get back to you!
PS: A post about Marlon’s massive wing, installing it, and celebrating his bold choice is coming soon. I’m crafting it carefully so Marlon stays my friend after I tease him about his giant wing—look, it’s a head-turner, and while I might not get his logic, it’s his car, his call. Honestly, I’m just stoked he’s pouring love into his car.