Z BOIS - FunctionTheory

The drifting world is littered with S13’s and S14’s, it is pretty much the go to for drift cars. While i know this is for good reason’s Cheap, parts are readily available, proven chassis, everyone is or knows someone that is knowledgeable about them. But what happens when we look to maybe have a car that is a bit (for lack of better words)not crappy, and maybe you have already honed your skills. Why not look to the Z33 this chassis it is perfect for the once a “drift kid” now an adult that still wants to drift but maybe wants something a bit more sophisticated. Lets use LIMITBREAK for instance, just in the last 6 months 3 of the groups members have gotten Z33’s so naturally LIMITBREAK being predominant drifting car club it would only seem natural that these guys would be ditching their S13’s for a Z33, as they age like a fine wine so does their taste in cars and driving styles. I know most people would be scared to wreck a z33 chassis and i would agree with you but knowing that the LIMITBREAK guys are pretty seasoned when it comes to drifting this seems like perfect next step. Im very happy to see that they have gone this direction, i love the way Z33’s look, the simplicity of the N/A 3.5 liter v6, strong drive terrain, and the way they can look so simple even though there is tons of upgrades done to them. it also seems that you can get the for less than the cost of a stock S14 so they are kinda a no brainier. *let me just say that there are still plenty of nice S13/S14 builds out there but its just refreshing to see other chassis being utilized.

Below i have some pictures from Dalton installing his Parts shop max comp coilovers, rear Parts shop max toe/camber arms, and Pete installing his Parts shop max max super angle kit, Hotchkis front and rear sway bars. Pete has also previously installed Parts shop max comp coilovers and rear parts shop max camber/toe arms.

this is kinda write up slash how to slash might as well take some pictures for the blog.

The rear is pretty straight forward especially if you are removing the stock rear arms that the coil spring once set in. you can switch to a full coiler and leave the stock rear lower arm in minus the coil spring. but it would be best to just do adjustable toe rods and camber arms all at the same time. one thing that trough me off at first was the bolts to unbolt the top of the rear shock are actually nuts that are in the actual wheel well instead of having to lift the rear hatch and get at them from the inside like many other cars, this one you just take off the rear wheel and follow the shock up and you’ll see the two nuts to unscrew.

he wanted to take the wheels off his S13 ( which is for sale) so currently the car is running 17×9 +12 square set up no spacers. with a 245/45

As it sits with a 205/50 in the rear and 19s up front ( unsure of the front tire specs

As it sits with 17×9 up front with 245/45 and 17×9 rear 205/50

the front might prove to be a little more challenging, the simplest way we did it ( might be other ways) but disconnected the swap bar end link form the LCA and the pop off the lower ball joint, separate the spindle from the lower control arm, before you do that unbolt the lower bolt that holds the shock to the lower control arm. it will be easier to pull the lower arm away from the spindle. once all separated un bolt the 3 bolts under the hood to drop the strut out. then to reinstall simply reverse the order in which it came out. at this time we also put on new inner tie rods with the small ring style spacers where it threads into the rack itself just to add a few more degrees of steering lock.

this was the finished product, 17×9 +12 all around 245/45 up front and 205/50 in the rear. As of now he has 245/45 all around and raised the rear a tad.

Now lets move on to Petes…

Pete is installing Parts shop max, Max angle kit for the Z33. he want to keep the car registered and still drive it on the streets, so he wanted to keep steering rack dust covers since the stock one were obvoulsy too short we went to a local off road shop and bought some rubber shock boots that ended up working quite well as you will be able to see in later pictures.