On Monday May 10th, 2021, I purchased my Civic Type R and by Tuesday May 11th I had already begun improving it.
There are many things I love about this car! Some that I like, others I can tolerate, but some stuff just had to go.
First thing on the list that had to go was, the corny red striping on the ground effects kit around the whole car. Originally, I planned to leave the red pin striping on because I had intended on picking up a Mugen front under spoiler along with the side steps. When installed, the Mugen bits would cover the red pin striping and life would be good.
Then I found out how backordered and long the wait was for these parts. I decided since the red striping was just a vinyl decal, the next best thing would be to peel the red pin stripping off the car. (If anyone knows anyone or anywhere that has the Mugen front under spoiler and side steps IN CHAMPIONSHIP WHITE and in stock, please let me know (((NOT USED)))
Sure, some might cringe at the thought of defacing such a JDM Gem. Hell, I’m sure some of you might even consider this a bold blasphemes move. Truth be told this had to be done and it needed to be done ASAP. I couldn’t stand the way it made the car look like a Kia, a generic “sport” model, or just some other car that was sold with false excitement. This was a Civic Type R! It doesn’t have anything to prove. Besides, I’m not one of those people that will only have this car with plans to keep it sealed up in a bubble and sell it for double the price in 10 or 20 years.
Before I did the dirty deed, I called on Ever for some advice. I was going to see what he thought was the best way to remove it without having to deal with much sticky left over residue. For those that don’t know, Ever works for a vinyl graphics company. From 2014-2018 Ever applied the vinyl stripes to just about every Shelby mustang sold, even the Hertz edition ones. Needless to say, Ever is my go to for anything vinyl or adhesive.
Below is the last time you’ll ever see the car with that hideous red stripe.
Before I could even get the camera out, Ever had already started to peel it off. Below, take note of how he is not only lifting the sticker away from the car but also pulling slightly towards himself. He says that when done this way the vinyl is stretched as it is pulled away from the car. This allows for the adhesive to get degraded somewhat since it is being stretched at the same time. And allow the stripe to be removed without fear of leaving any residue. He cautions to not pull so tightly that you snap the vinyl “it only takes a little amount of tension.”
Below you can see how there is absolutely no residue left.
I had to give it a try myself. Below you can see how it will become curly from the tension that is applied. It’s almost like when you used to help you mom wrap Christmas presents and you would make the ribbon curly. You can also see below how there is the small white balls of adhesive residue left on the striping and not the car.
De striping the car is so damn quick and easy (when using the method mentioned above) that before I could even finish my driver’s side ground effect, Ever had already completed the front bumper, passenger side skirt, and nearly the whole rear. I was only able to catch him removing the final inches.
Using the “Ever technique” there was not one millimeter of residue left anywhere on the car. No need for me to use any chemical, goo gone, or WD-40. Below you can see how much better the car looks without that hideous red stripe. It’s too bad the wheels have the stripe painted on, if it was vinyl, it would be gone as well. Some have stated that the red stripe on the wheels makes them look like real rotas.
On that Monday as I drove the car off the lot, it didn’t take me more than 2 mins to remember that these cars came with artificial engine sounds broadcasting through speakers. Yes, that’s right, Honda thought it would be a good idea to try and make your drive in the car, a more enjoyable experience by adding fake engine noises as you row through the gears. I understand why Honda did it, or at least I think I do. The K20c1 is probably the worst sounding engine Honda has ever produced. If it wasn’t for Nissans VQ35DE holding the title for worst sounding engine ever, the K20C1 might have taken the crown as the worst sounding engine EVER! This is the only reason I can produce as to why Honda would pump artificial engine noises through the audio system.
Another bad on Honda, this sound couldn’t be turned off in any of the settings. UGH, no way was I going to be able to live with this. I took to the internet and found out there is a small box behind the dash that housed the electronics for the fake engine soundtrack. Apparently, all you must do is unplug this and there will be no more fake sounds. I can also confirm, there will be no other downsides, such as warning lights or CEL’s. Just a nice and quiet cabin with 100% organic sounds.
Below I will go over the steps for gaining access to and unplugging the artificial sound maker.
Start by opening you glove box. With a gently squeeze in each side of the glove box so you can get it to swing all the way down.
Once the glove box swings all the way down to the floor you will gain access to the screws holding the hinges of the glove box to the lower frame of the dash. Remove the screws and move the glove box out of the way.
Next take a plastic interior tool and pry off the side cap of the dash where the door closes against. This will give you access to all the screws needed to remove the black plastic trim that is left after removing the dash. The glove box light will need to be unplugged form this before you completely remove the plastic trim.
Once the plastic is removed you will have full access to the grey plastic box that makes all the artificial sounds. Simply unplug the only plug that goes into the unit. I know it seems like there is a lot of wires that are a part of that plug and I’m sure, like me, you are thinking that there is no way there are that many wires needed to make fake engine noises. Well apparently, there are, like I stated early there are no downsides to unplugging this. Everything in the car still works as it did form the factory, no warning lights, no CEL’s (Check Engine Lights), and all LKAS and ACC works flawlessly.
Below just for reference I have pictured the plastic trim that needs to be removed along with the glove box. (not pictured is the small side dash cap that is simply pried off)
For those that might be weary of dismantling their brand-new automobile or are intimidated by how much must be removed to gain access. Rest assured, this is very easy, and it would be challenging to mess anything up. It’s merely a few screws and clips.
Just make sure you plug back in the glove box light before you reinstall everything. I forgot, and I had to take it all back apart again.
The last of the three things that needed to be done was, removing the chrome “CIVIC” emblem from the rear hatch. Thankfully, there isn’t many chrome accents on this car and Honda was kind enough to make them all black or some dark color. Well, that is except for the chrome CIVIC emblem on the hatch. This is strange because Honda made the “TYPE R badge in a black chrome color. This means that, coming direct from factory there are non-matching badges on the rear of the car, one chrome, and the other black chrome. I don’t claim to be the most fashion savvy person, but I do know what it takes to make a civic look tasteful, and in this case, chrome is not going to fly.
Pictured below you can see the contrast between the chrome and black chrome.
Below I’ll go over the quick process of “de badging” the Civic emblem.
Starting out, ensure the area around the emblem is totally clean, free from all dirt and debris. I would suggest removing the Civic emblem right after you have washed the car. It’s best for the car to be clean or at least the area to be clean, so when you are working in that area you are not scratching the paint as you rub off the left-over adhesive.
Now that the area is clean, take some fishing line, or floss and gently work it between the letters and the body of the car. The fishing line is “cutting” the adhesive. Slowly move the fishing line back and forth in a sawing motion to help it get through the adhesive backing. *Pro tip: If your ambient temp is lower than 80 degrees F, make sure you have the rear of the car sit in direct sun for about an hour to make the adhesive more malleable and easier to work with.
Now, making sure the car is out of the sun, take either goo gone (or similar citrus product) or WD-40 and spray it on the adhesive left on the car. Let that soak for 10 ish minutes. Using a microfiber towel, take one finger and rub only on the adhesive. It will slowly start to ball up, as it does it will start removing the rest of the adhesive. Take your time here and make sure you are not pushing too hard or rubbing directly on the paint (it’s ok if you rub a little bit on the paint, just try your best not to). This will help ensure no damage to the clear coat or the paint.
If you still have some residual left you can repeat the process, starting with soaking it with the chemical of your choice, waiting a few min, taking a clean microfiber using one finger again rub specifically on the left-over adhesive.
Try not to use your fingernails to pick, or any other plastic scraper style tool. The paint/clear coat is easily damaged that way.
I also prefer to stay away from those eraser wheels that you use in conjunction with a drill to remove pin stripes or other major adhesiveness from cars. These tend to remove too much clear coat, or even burn/discolor the area.
I prefer the look of not having the civic emblem at all. Everyone already knows it’s a civic, for this reason I’m choosing to go sans emblem. However, if some of you prefer to have a civic emblem on your Type R, you can purchase the Limited-edition Type R civic emblem that comes in a black chrome color and matches the Type R badge perfectly.
Here is the part number for that emblem: 75722-TGH-R00. Prices range from 12-22 bucks for it depending on who you order it from. Below you can see what it looks like compared on a Limited-edition Type R (not my photo)
Before:
After:
And some B roll photos.
Annnnnnd some Rigby pictures because he loves being in the garage with me.
I realize this post might have been somewhat of a “click bait” post (considering the title of it). I promise though, there are actual installs and real product reviews coming up in the next few blog posts about the Type R. Like I mentioned in my last FK8 post, I have already done many things including: Swift springs, Hasport RMM, clutch delay valve delete, spoon clutch line, spoon air filter, radium CCV catch can, acuity shifter cable bushings, and SPC rear camber arms.
I still plan on doing exhaust, getting wheels and tires, down pipe and possibly a halo bucket seat. (in the near future)
Incase you missed the first post about how I acquired the Type R, you can click the link below to read all about it.
Thank you for checking out the blog and reading all about my Civic Type R adventures. If you have any questions about this post or any others, please feel free to reach out via email: Billy@Functiontheory.com Instagram: @Functiontheory or simply comment below and I will get back to you. Also, if you are in Las Vegas and have a Type R, lets meet up! I would love to meet some of the other local Type R owners and possibly help them install parts on their cars. HIT ME UP!