Journey back with me, if you will, to the year 2000. I can still vividly recall the thrilling experience of playing Gran Turismo 2 and being wonderstruck by the unmistakable roar of the Spoon EK9 as it revved to the limiter while on the starting grid. It was a defining moment when I first encountered this sound pouring from the AI car as I readied myself for the start. I remember being utterly captivated and thinking to myself, “What in the world is that incredible sound?” It took me several laps to finally pinpoint the source of the mesmerizing noise to the Spoon EK9, which notably revved up to an astonishing 12,000 RPMs. Not only did the car reach mythical RPM levels, but it also proved to be a formidable contender against all other cars.
I was completely spellbound by the car, so much so that I made acquiring it in the game a personal mission. When I finally got my hands on it, I was immediately captivated by the Japanese tuning and realized that front-wheel drive econobox cars reign supreme. What began as a mere affection ignited by a video game flourished into an enduring passion that I still wholeheartedly embrace 23 years later. From that moment on, my heart belonged entirely to the realm of the FF Honda. No American muscle car could ever hope to sway me from this all-consuming passion: Japanese FF greatness.
The experience was deeply exhilarating due to the transcendental and awe-inspiring aura surrounding the Spoon name. Its majestic and almost divine presence left an unforgettable mark on my soul, evoking a profound reverence and admiration. The Spoon name soared to extraordinary heights, igniting a fiery passion within me that couldn’t be subdued. Its significance resonates deeply, infusing every fiber of my being with intense and genuine devotion.
Put simply, a car in a video game made such an impression on me that it quite literally shaped my future by showing me that a four-cylinder, front-wheel drive car that was designed to be as economical as possible was just about the most fun you could have not only in the game but in real life as well.
Unfortunately, 1, I didn’t own a Civic, 2, I had no clue where even to acquire rare JDM parts, and lastly, I was never going to be able to afford anything “Spoon” as I was still in high school and working part-time as a bag boy.
Despite everything, my newfound unwavering passion for Honda and Spoon Sports was a conviction that would endure until my last breath. Approximately a year later, I acquired my very own Honda Civic, a 1995 VX model, to be precise. Naturally, the affordability of Spoon parts remained beyond my financial reach.
In fact, it wasn’t even until 2015 (nearly 15 years later) that I received my first real Spoon part. It was a Spoon Sports K series valve cover… and I didn’t even buy it! It was a gift from my best friend, who knew how much I loved Spoon. Quickly, let me explain what I mean by the “real spoon part.” A real Spoon part is one that costs over five hundred bucks. Sure, I had Spoon thermostats, fan switches, magnetic drain plugs, oil, radiator caps, and shift knobs on many of my previous builds. Those are just novelty parts that people put on their cars to say they have Spoon parts. When you start to spend more than five hundred dollars, the impressiveness of the parts you have also increases because fewer people tend to have those high-dollar parts on their cars.
To be fair, most Spoon parts were not highly sought after because, for their price, they didn’t significantly increase power or offer radical performance enhancements compared to other more realistically priced brands on the market. This was because Spoon developed racing parts for cars that had to follow specific event regulations and rules. They prioritized reliability over extreme power, aiming to provide consistent and dependable performance because in order to finish first, first you must finish.
In the past five years, I have been fortunate enough to have a well-paying job and the ability to acquire some ‘real Spoon parts’ for my cars. However, I have still opted to purchase other parts rather than Spoon parts simply because I can’t justify the price. For example, I bought Regamasters for my FK8 instead of spending $1500 more to get Spoon SW388s when they are basically the same thing. Yes, the SW388s do have a slightly better offset than the Regas (SW388 is +40, Regas is +45), and the SW388s do have a unique black anodizing that saves a few ounces over the Regas, which are painted and clear coated. Basically, they are the same thing. Would I love to have SW388s? Hell yes! but I can’t justify that price difference. The $1500 I saved by getting Regas can be a set of tires. Anyone who frequently tracks their cars knows just how valuable a consumable like tires are.
Spoon parts are undeniably revered in the JDM community, but as most of you know, my focus is solely (for the most part) on functionality. That’s why I love a good Spoon part, but I haven’t opted for a complete “Spoon catalog” car. For instance, Hasport produces superior performance-enhancing motor mounts compared to Spoon. Additionally, A set of Carbotech brake pads will offer you even better on-track performance than the Spoon pads at nearly half the price. Goodridge offers a quality SS brake line that performs just as well but at a significantly lower price point than Spoon. Furthermore, in most scenarios, a Koyo radiator provides all the necessary cooling benefits at a quarter of the cost of a Spoon radiator. Lastly, the Spoon stiff plates job can easily be replicated by a much more economical Cusco brace.
However, when it comes to parts such as baffled oil pans, brake calipers, specialized bracing, unique aero/body components, and high-quality chromoly lug nuts, etc… most other companies can’t rival Spoon regarding reliability and design effectiveness.
Alright, alright, I’m sure you get it by now… I’m infatuated with Spoon, but not to the point of amassing irreversible debt.
Enough rambling; let me explain why I got the Spoon wing and go through the installation process.
Since its inception, Spoon has consistently led the way in distinctive styling and design, particularly in the realm of aero parts. Take, for example, the legendary Spoon carbon roof spoiler (duckbill wing) and front lip for the EG/EK model Civics. These two components undoubtedly stand as the most imitated and reproduced parts of all time, cementing their status as essential elements of any high-caliber build during the early 2000s. Heck, our forefathers of JDM, FF-Squad, were rocking Spoon parts before the turn of the century.
Unfortunately, In the early 2000s, the thought of owning a genuine Spoon wing or lip seemed like a distant dream, so I had to settle for not having those parts because I prioritized motor swaps over real Spoon parts. However, now that I’m in a much better place financially, the time feels right to finally make my teenage dream of owning an authentic Spoon wing a reality. The Spoon wing will forever and always hold an iconic status, carrying with it a legendary aura. No matter what the future holds for my FK8, having a Spoon wing proudly displayed in my home will be akin to owning a piece of art, evoking joy and pride in the knowledge that I could afford such an incredible piece. It will also serve as a wonderful reminder of good times and those beginning days when all I could do was dream about Spoon parts. Moreover, as we all know, Spoon parts retain their value incredibly well, often increasing in price due to their scarcity. So, it’s a worthwhile investment, too… follow me for more financial advice!
Another reason I chose the Spoon wing was to deviate from the typical look of most FK8s out there. I was quite literally one Mugen wing away from looking like everyone else. With my lowered FK8, Regas, and Mugen lip kit, my car already resembled countless others. It’s MY car, and I have the right to customize it however I want, right? But it irked me that it was so generic. I was slowly turning into those “FK8 Starter Pack” or “You Have Good Money But Not Good Taste” memes. Sure, I had my reasons for the modifications. But to outsiders, it just blended in with the rest of the FK8 crowd. Come on; I wanted it to stand out!
Click the link below to read about installing my Mugen lip kit and my reasoning for purchasing it.
Lastly, my most influential decision in purchasing the Spoon wing was…
I’ll admit, the Spoon wing isn’t the most elegant wing for the FK8 on the market. In fact, some might even say it is the ugliest wing available for the FK8. I think it is a Marmite wing—some love it, and some hate it. Either way, you can’t deny the motorsport pedigree of it. The fact that it is a Swan neck (Crane neck) wing screams motorsports. Plus, Spoon has also done R&D and CFD modeling to ensure there is a benefit from their product, and they run it on their own race cars as well!
What is a Swan neck wing, and what makes it different from a conventional wing?
A Swan neck wing is a type of aerodynamic wing design commonly used in motorsports. Unlike traditional wings, where the wing element is attached directly to the mounting brackets, the Swan neck wing has the stand mounts on top of the wing while the foils (or wing elements) are mounted underneath.
The distinctive feature of the Swan neck wing is that it maximizes the downforce generated by the wing surface area. Mounting the wing element from above allows for more efficient airflow over the wing’s surface, increasing downforce without significantly increasing drag. This design enables the creation of higher levels of downforce compared to traditional wings with the same wing surface area.
Swan neck wings are favored in motorsports because they provide enhanced stability and improved cornering performance, allowing vehicles to maintain better grip on the road or track. The design has been extensively developed and refined over the years to optimize downforce generation while minimizing aerodynamic turbulence.
While opinions on the aesthetics of Swan neck wings may vary, their undeniable motorsport pedigree and performance benefits make them popular among enthusiasts and professional racers alike.
If you’re interested in learning more about Swan Neck wings, this is a great article.
https://www.mulsannescorner.com/rearwingLMPCFD2009.html
By purchasing the Spoon wing, I could begin to separate myself from the herd when it comes to FK8s. I will admit that at first, I wasn’t completely sold on the Spoon wing because, like most, I wasn’t completely sold on how it looked. Maybe it was because there was so much going on to cram a swan neck wing on the car, or maybe it was just because there were so many radical angles of the mounting brackets that it looked funny because they tried to incorporate their symbol “Tsuru” or Crane (a bird) in English into its design.
However, the one feature that always had me returning to the Spoon wing was its “swan neck” style. I feel that a swan neck wing was really the epitome of motorsports and so well represented what I was trying to achieve with my car. It was also a great opportunity to fulfill my teenage dream of acquiring a “holy grail” part from an iconic Japanese tuning brand.
OK, let’s get to the install part. First, JDM parts have a painfully long wait time, like many Japanese parts nowadays. Some have even dubbed it the “JDM wait time.” So, as I do with all my “JDM” parts, I purchased the wing through RHDJapan.com. My friends and I have been purchasing our Mugen, Spoon, J’s racing, Carbing, Voltex, Project Mu, ETC… from them for the past ten years.
Purchasing stuff through them is incredibly cheaper (even after shipping) than ordering from any U.S.-based supplier. See my examples below for proof.
What it costs from RHDJapan.com
What does it cost from RHDJapan.com, including shipping?
This is what it costs from EVERY U.S.-based supplier. 4,110.00 and each company has different shipping costs.
With shipping from Spoon USA, it is 4,221.09 shipped.
With shipping from Evasive Motorsports, it is 4,629.21!
Just by ordering through RHDJapan.com, you will definitely save yourself at least 1,126.53, if not more. That’s such a significant amount of savings that you could even splurge on some FK8 Spoon aero mirrors *wink, and still not come close to spending as much as you would by simply ordering the wing from a U.S.-based supplier.
Don’t be hesitant about ordering from RHDJapan.com. It’s completely safe, you get legit parts, no one is trying to scam you, and their customer service is top-notch. If you aren’t ordering from RHDJapan.com, you’re only playing yourself. Plus, most U.S.-based suppliers rarely have any of these hard-to-find JDM parts in stock, and most likely, they are ordering directly through Spoon, just as RHDJapan.com does.
Back to the “JDM wait time,” man, I had to wait forever for that wing to come in. Like seriously, I ordered it back in mid-May 2023, and it didn’t show up at my house until November 24, 2023. That’s a crazy long time to wait, but you know what? It was totally worth it; I couldn’t be happier with how the wing turned out. It’s a thing of beauty and transformed my boring old Civic into a GT3 racecar.
While awaiting the wing’s arrival, I began accumulating the necessary components for a seamless installation so that when it finally arrived, I could slap it right on without having to wait any longer to install it.
I needed to get touch-up paint because I would have to drill two holes in the hatch to secure the wing properly, and I didn’t want the unpainted exposed metal to rust. Yes, I know some people don’t drill the holes, and their wings are still securely fastened to their car. However, I tend to drive my car harder than most, especially on the track, and I didn’t want that wing to have any potential to come loose or fly off when hitting speeds above 140 mph.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~paint~nh0~championship~white~08703-nh0ah-a1.html
These green clips are used to secure the whole plastic hatch panel to the metal part of the hatch; in some cases, they break. It was cheap insurance because these things cost a whopping $0.28 each.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~clip~door~lining~apple~green~91560-szw-003.html
There are only two of these clips, and they are very unlikely to break. But, just to be safe and because they only cost $1.96 each, I purchased them too.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~clip~assy~trim~nh900l~deep~black~90667-tc0-u01zm.html
Next, you will need two tailgate stoppers (a right and a left). There is no way you’re getting the plastic hatch panel off without damaging them. These things get so messed up when removing them that Mugen even provides them on every wing kit they sell. Unfortunately, Spoon doesn’t include them in the kit as well. But they are only $15 for the right and $17 for the left.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~stopper~r~tailgate~74828-tgg-a01.html
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~stopper~l~tailgate~74829-tgg-a01.html
Lastly, since purchasing my car, I have desired to eliminate the rear windshield wiper. Apart from the fact that it gives a sleeker appearance, the negligible rainfall in Vegas renders it unnecessary. Moreover, I don’t even drive my FK8 in rainy conditions. Although I had the rear wiper arm detached from day one, I refrained from removing the plastic components and the wiper motor itself. This caution was due to the stubborn nature of the tailgate stoppers, as I wanted to avoid any potential damage to the plastic clips or panels on my brand-new car.
So, given that I was already planning to remove the plastic panels, I realized it would be an opportune moment to uninstall the wiper motor and install a delete plug. Killing two birds with one stone, if you will.
I did some research and stumbled across this plug below. It seems that most people with FK8s used this to plug their hole in the glass once they removed the wiper motor. The plug is actually from ECS tuning and is for a Mini Cooper.
Now, on to the wing! Below, you can see how good the condition of the box is, especially after being shipped via air freight across the Pacific Ocean, landing in Tennessee, where the FedEx hub is, and then being shipped to my house back across the U.S. in Las Vegas, NV. I have had boxes shipped from JHPusa in Southern California, a mere 300 miles away from me, that have looked like they went through a mosh pit. Another unique thing I noticed that RHDJapan did to make the gigantic spoon package look more discreet… They actually taped kraft paper (cardboard-colored shipping paper) over the spoon logos on the box to thwart any would-be potential thieves who were fiending for some of that good, good JDM stuff. You can see how there is a rectangular piece of tape around the Spoon logo; I removed it for the pictures, but honestly, they did such a good job of covering it that I had to really look to find that quintessential Spoon Sports logo.
Certificate of Authenticity
I placed the box on a queen-size sheet for reference so you could get an idea of the size of the box.
To be perfectly honest, it took me two weeks after its arrival to finally get around to installing the wing. However, the day it arrived, I couldn’t help but open it up and take a sneak peek. Rest assured, the box was originally packed with meticulous care, even if it may not appear so in the image below. Although I did my best to assemble everything exactly as it was upon arrival, I must admit that my packaging skills lacked that special “Spoon touch.”
Below is everything that was removed from the box. Each piece was meticulously wrapped in numerous layers of bubble wrap, with some items even further secured within sturdy cardboard enclosures.
OHHH BOYYYY, am I getting excited!
Different angles for reference
The instructions come in Japanese. However, a little Google Translate camera on my phone, and I was able to convert it to English easily.
Pictured below is the OEM wing that comes standard on the FK8. Honestly, this wing looks pretty dang good, especially for being a stock wing.
Below, you can see how I removed the wiper arm while the motor remained securely intact. This is how the car has been since day two of ownership, with a little 10mm valve cover bolt holding the assembly together.
Now, we actually begin the installation process. Start by opening your hatch.
Next, we will proceed to remove the plastic handle grips. This action needs to be performed on both sides.
This can be done with some plastic interior pry tools. However, remember to be careful when prying because there is the potential to easily break the plastic tabs the handle grip clips to.
Below, you can see the two small rectangles where the tabs from the handle clip into. These can easily be broken if you’re not careful when prying the handle grips off.
Next, we proceed to eliminate the tailgate stoppers. This task can be somewhat cumbersome, requiring patience and an understanding that they cannot be salvaged for future use. The clip design is such that they become deformed as they are detached. Patiently and gently work them off. I suggest starting at one side and slowly working to the other, taking it one clip at a time. Each stopper has three clips that attach it to the hatch.
This is what it should look like removed.
Next, we proceed to the X2 plastic clips. Removing them is a straightforward task, and personally, I found it convenient to reuse the existing ones. In my case, there was no need to purchase new clips. Nevertheless, it’s worth mentioning that if your vehicle is older or has endured extended exposure to intense heat from frequent outdoor parking, these clips may become fragile. Ultimately, the decision of whether to order new clips or not rests in your hands.
OK, now every clip, stopper, and handle has been removed. Next will be the removal of the 10mm bolts that secure the plastic trim to the hatch.
Each handle contains X2 10mm bolts per side, securing the plastic trim to the hatch. These four bolts must all be removed before you attempt to remove the plastic hatch trim.
Now, all bolts (X4), clips (X2), handle grips (X2), and tailgate stoppers (X2) have been removed.
See below how mangled the tailgate stoppers get when removed.
It is time to proceed to the interior of the hatch itself. Removing the small central plastic section first is crucial, as this is a prerequisite for removing the larger panel.
Jam your plastic interior pry tool into one corner and gently pry.
This part should easily pop right off without much fuss.
And this is what it should now look like.
Next, grab the hatch panel and gently pull it to release the clips. Make sure to take your time applying pressure evenly around all parts of the hatch panel. Ensure you start pulling from one end, evenly working around the plastic hatch panel until you arrive at the other end.
Viola! The plastic trim has been successfully eliminated. To be candid, I find the process of removing it to be less challenging than what others may suggest. In fact, it was remarkably straightforward. I must confess that I felt a sense of regret for not taking action sooner to remove the wiper motor. I had procrastinated for nearly three years before finally removing the wiper entirely for fear of difficulty removing the plastic.
Here’s that dang wiper motor. There are X3 10mm bolts that secure the motor to the hatch that will need to be removed.
Then, remove the single 10mm bolt holding the black cap onto the assembly (or the wiper arm if you still have it installed). Now, all that’s holding the motor is the 23mm lock nut.
Next, take a 23mm socket and remove the lock nut that holds the wiper motor assembly in the window. Once the lock ring is removed, the whole wiper motor assembly can come out. This leaves you with just the rubber grommet and two metal washers on each side.
The one on the outside easily comes off with the help of a small flathead screwdriver. And the one on the inside also easily falls off.
Now push the rubber grommet through the hole, and you’re officially deleted!
The new billet plug is even easier to install. It just sandwiches between the glass, and a nut is on the underside to secure it. Pro tip: I used some grease to hold the small rubber O-ring on the underside of the plug in place while you tighten the nut on the inside. That rubber O-ring is crucial for preventing water/moisture from getting in your car and must remain in the groove of the billet cap. There is also a large thick rubber washer that goes on the inside, that one doesn’t need any grease to help hold it in place. It will be obvious that I’m talking about the very thin O-ring that goes on the outside in the groove of the billet plug.
I absolutely love this wiper delete plug! Its sleek and low-profile design gives it a truly classy look. Here’s a PRO TIP: Apply some ceramic coating right after installation to keep it looking fresh. This will prevent the black anodization from gradually fading into a purple or brown hue over time due to exposure to UV rays.
I think the only thing better than the look of this wiper delete plug would be getting the Limited Edition Civic Type R rear glass. The limited editions come without a rear wiper so there is no hole in the glass. However, this would be quite the flex because the LE rear glass is 938 bucks which is 400 dollars more than the regular Type R glass! I’m fine with my 26-dollar plug.
Next, it’s on to removing the wing. There are X4 10mm bolts (two per side) that secure the wing to the car.
To effortlessly detach the wing, easily loosen all four bolts. Before completely removing the bolts, seek assistance from a helper to lift the wing away from the hatch as you carefully unthread the bolts the rest of the way. This method ensures a smooth and hassle-free process and prevents any risk of damage from the wing falling off.
I utilized a bungee cord to assist in maintaining the hatch in a fixed position, preventing excessive gravitational forces from exerting pressure on the wing as I proceeded to loosen the bolts on both sides. This precautionary measure aimed to avoid any potential damage or detachment of the wing during the process.
Despite all my precautions. I still employed the help of Angie (and Rigby to help keep things posi) to help lift the wing off. She also seems to be wondering why Ever tied a noose and hung it in the garage.
With the wing removed, you uncovered a bunch of grossness, and you now have the opportunity to tackle years of stubborn grime and crud that was inaccessible during a regular car wash.
Reach for some quick detailer to eliminate it all swiftly. Ensure you generously spray the quick detailer directly onto the soiled areas, allowing ample time to soak and break down the stubborn residue. Finally, grab a clean microfiber and wipe away the dirt, revealing a beautifully refreshed surface.
Again, just another look at that beautiful wiper delete plug without the wing on.
It’s just a base model civic ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
These rectangular holes will no longer be needed, and I found it best to use these sealing stickers from Honda to close them up and ensure no water leaks into your car. Plus, they are only 0.87 cents each.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~seal~hole~25mm~91607-t0t-000.html
Next, carefully follow the Spoon instructions as you confidently maneuver a lengthy strip of masking tape to assist in aligning the position for drilling the third hole to ensure the wing is thoroughly fastened to the car. Utilize the existing two holes as reference points, precisely positioning the tape equidistantly from both holes. This strategic placement will be a reliable guide for measuring and drilling the third necessary hole.
As you can see below, I quickly proceeded with the measurements and drilling without pausing to take pictures of each stage. Now, I have a hole drilled, and I’m quite happy with its location.
Remember that the distance of the hole I just drilled from the tape is larger than it is from the OEM holes because the OEM holes are larger.
So, I should have shown you the measuring process before I actually drilled the hole. As per Spoon’s instructions, the third hole must be drilled 170mm from the hole I’m measuring from below. Remember, the measurements are done center to center. As you can see, I have the beginning of the ruler in the center of the hole. Then, you would need to measure upwards to 17cm (or 170mm) and place your mark to drill there because the 17cm mark will be the center of the new hole being drilled.
I approached the task with trepidation as I contemplated drilling into my car, fearing that I might irreversibly damage the hatch. Realizing that I would be limited to only using the Spoon wing intensified my apprehension. Any attempt to replace the wing with another would leave behind two conspicuous holes. However, let’s be honest: why would I ever want to replace the Spoon wing?
I started my pilot hole with a small 1/16th drill bit. This would be easy to control and ensure no walking of the bit. Go slow here and take your time. Ensure you do not wipe the metal shavings off with your hand, or you’ll risk scratching your paint. Use compressed air to blow them off.
I then moved on to a 3/16 bit, again taking it slow and ensuring I didn’t wipe away any metal shavings with my hands.
The final size bit was a 9/32. This left enough room for the Spoon hardware to go through, yet was small enough to ensure the hardware wouldn’t slip through as it was tightened.
With the holes drilled, it was time to use the NH-0 touch-up paint. Dab this all around the areas of raw metal that resulted from drilling the new holes. This touch-up pen comes with a base color and then a lacquer to finish it off. Bravo Honda!
Next, commence the wing assembly by fitting the base plates. It is crucial not to tighten them fully; instead, leave all bolts somewhat loose to accommodate movement during the wing’s complete assembly. This approach will effectively prevent any binding and guarantee that the wing is perfectly centered within all its mounting points.
Now, it’s time to install the wing bracket. Remember, it’s important not to tighten the bolts fully. Leave them slightly loose to ensure proper adjustment.
This is what it should look like. Don’t fully tighten those bolts yet.
The Spoon instructions are easy to follow, and the pictures do a great job of illustrating the orientation of each bolt, washer, lock washer, and nut.
It’s now time to install the wing element (or foil). Loosely install the bolts into the wing element and then look around at each corner to ensure all the bases, brackets, and element all line up evenly. If you’re happy with how it all lines up, you can start fully tightening the bolts.
Begin with the bolts that secure the element (foil) to the brackets. Once those are secure and you feel like the wing is still lined up well, move on to tightening the brackets to the bases. Don’t go crazy when tightening them; remember, they are just nutserts in FRP carbon. You’ll know when it’s tight enough. Lastly, it’s time to secure the bases to the hatch. Again, don’t go crazy torquing these down because these are also nutserts in FRP carbon. I could actually hear the bases making a creaking, almost cracking, noise when tightening them to the hatch, so be careful.
Remember to use Loctite on all the bolts because they will all be subjected to many vibrations down the road that could lead to loosening.
When I started the assembly, I made sure to tighten the bolts at the element (foil) and bracket first. This ensured that the wing would effectively center itself at all the brackets and bases, preventing any potential binding of the wing element. By tightening the bases or brackets first, there was a risk of them being slightly crooked, which could have a detrimental effect on the wing mounting and throw off the entire assembly. Therefore, I prioritized securing the element (foil) and bracket before proceeding to other components.
At this point, I’m pretty damn excited! I can start to visualize what the final product will look like. Sick… Sick is what it’s going to look like.
The wing element is so aggressive and truly a work of art.
Wing endplates can now be installed. Bellissimo!
HAWT DAMN! It looks amazing.
Like the wiper delete plug, I highly recommend applying a ceramic coating on all components of the Spoon wing – including the bases, brackets, wing element, and endplates. This ensures that the carbon clear coat is protected from discoloration or clouding caused by UV rays. By taking this precautionary step, you can maintain the pristine appearance of your wing for many years to come. Do the metal brackets as well; this will prevent the black anodization from turning purplish-brown from UV exposure over the years. Remember, it is well-known that most Spoon carbon parts suffer from poor UV protection and usually discolor or cloud up even if only exposed to UV for a short amount of time.
And, of course, it wouldn’t be a Functiontheory blog post without some glamour shots!
As you can see, I also own the most uninspiring track wheel ever. Now you can see that I really needed that Spoon wing to help set me apart from every other FK8 on track. Unfortunately, the Titan 7 T-S5 has become the obligatory track wheel, but it’s hard to deny for the price they are a very decent option for track enthusiasts. They are also a popular choice amongst “track-inspired” builds too because it’s a great way for them to keep build costs low while their street cred remains high.
I must confess that there are indeed certain angles where the wing may not appear most aesthetically pleasing. However, whenever I look at the Swan (crane) neck-style mounting, a wide grin stretches across my face from ear to ear. Swan neck wings, oh, how they ignite my enthusiasm! Even if their visual appeal is not optimal, they never fail to deliver exceptional performance. And that is the essence of what Functiontheory stands for.
I really appreciate that the Spoon Wing has no branding on it. This means that only true enthusiasts who are familiar with it will recognize it. Sadly, many people in the car scene these days are only interested in brand recognition, which is why it’s nice to have something that separates the true enthusiasts from the posers. I don’t mind that there’s no definitive way to tell it apart from a knock-off because I know what I have, and that’s all that matters.
I buy these parts for me and not to show off. Just like the Spoon yellow valve cover on my car that could so easily be spray painted ‘Rust-oleum’ yellow, just knowing it is an actual Spoon part is enough for me. I’m not seeking validation from others. Purchasing authentic parts and not knock off stuff is a great way to ensure these companies can stay in business and continue to make amazing parts for us. After all, they are the ones that put all the R&D into the parts and pushed through all the early stages of development to ensure the part not only flawlessly functions but remains that way for many, many years. Remember, quality comes at a price, and that is exactly what you are buying when you purchase real JDM parts… Quality.
It’s also worth mentioning how good it feels to have real parts on your car. That feeling of accomplishment, of knowing that you worked hard and made sacrifices to afford something nice. Every time you catch a glimpse of that something, you get those butterflies in your tummy because you actually did it! You earned the right to show off a little, whether a subtle display for those in the know or a more overt, confident style. I personally prefer the subtle approach, as I’ve always preferred to let my actions speak for themselves rather than flaunt them. If I end up parked next to someone at a meet and they have a knock-off wing, they know deep down that theirs is fake, and until they ask me if mine’s real, they can’t assume anything. And if they have the gall to question my wing’s authenticity… It would be my pleasure to let them in on my little secret. “you’re goddamn right It’s real; what kind of person buys knock-off stuff.”
Because the wing is on a “hatchback,” I feel like the swan neck was a tough shape to execute elegantly, which is why the wing looks a bit crammed in. Nonetheless, it’s still a bonafide swan neck wing and functions as one.
An easy way to tell if it is a real Spoon wing is that the wing element mounts riveted to it are NOT carbon fiber. Also, depending on the knock-off company, the metal brackets might have a sharper edge to them as opposed to the Spoon ones that have sleek rounded edges. Lastly, it takes true Spoon aficionados to spot the carbon and weave differences.
In a world saturated with replicas, knock-offs, copies, and clones, it’s crucial to distinguish between purchasing more cost-effective parts when building on a budget versus opting for an outright knock-off solely for its appearance, compromising reliability, quality, and performance. You can help defend authenticity by using your dollar to impact the choice of producers. By purchasing real parts from reputable vendors, you can assure the producers of said parts will receive the money back and use it to continue to grow and make the community a better place.
But when you buy from a counterfeit company that simply uses a 3D scanner for “parts development,” you essentially reward them for creating inexpensive imitations of someone else’s meticulous work. The original company behind the copied part doesn’t receive compensation or acknowledgment for their design and engineering efforts. This will inevitably cause them to increase prices or slowly offer fewer options for certain makes or models. You’re single-handedly killing the scene, JDM is dying, and it’s all your fault.
To sum it all up, if you have to purchase knock-off parts to give your car a superficial appeal due to an inability to afford authentic ones… Evidently, this pursuit is beyond your means, and perhaps it’s time to consider indulging in Hot Wheels instead. However, It’s okay if you can’t afford authentic JDM brands immediately; plenty of reasonably priced aftermarket parts will help improve your car’s performance and still allow you to enjoy cars as a hobby and afford to eat. You don’t need to fake the funk to be cool. Trust me, more people will respect you if you don’t have knock-off stuff on your car and it looks plain Jane than if you have a bunch of rep stuff to “look cool.”
“Real recognizes real!”
Some may choose to take offense at my expressed opinions, but I never intended to cause any offense. Certain individuals struggle to grasp the reasoning behind investing in a high-cost item when cheaper alternatives abound. They fail to comprehend the essence of the passion for building a car. They overlook the exhilaration derived from being able to incorporate parts from renowned Japanese tuners – parts steeped in heritage and lineage. It may just be a name to some, but it holds far deeper significance to me and many others.
Sorry, let me quickly step down from my self-righteous soapbox so I don’t spoil this post’s exciting and joyful tone about finally acquiring such a unique part from a legendary Japanese tuning company.
As you can tell, I am extremely happy and excited about getting a Spoon wing. This is a major accomplishment for any Honda enthusiast, and it is a very personal achievement for me as well. For the past 23 years, I have dreamed of owning a unique part from the famous Japanese tuner, but I always prioritized other car parts ahead of expensive wings. Nonetheless, I never gave up on my dream, and now I have finally made it a reality. I feel very lucky in this life to not only have acquired the highly coveted FK8, but also to have equipped it with some top-of-the-line components. Adding a Spoon Wing to that list is like the cherry on top!
Thank you all for taking the time to read through my extensive trip down memory lane. I have dedicated the better part of a month to articulate every aspect of this important post because this purchase holds immense personal significance. I trust that you have gained insights into my history, the significance of the Spoon name, the superiority of a Swan neck wing over a conventional style, and the importance of opting for authentic parts.
As always, if you have questions, comments, hate, opinions, or want to say hi… Please feel free to contact me via email at Billy@Functiontheory.com, DM me on Instagram @Functiontheory, or simply comment on the post below, and I will get back to you.