A Critically Alienating Introduction:
If you’ve read the post about installing my Spoon Wing, you already know how much of a Spoon whore I really am. I’ve been a die-hard fan from the very beginning—not someone hopping on the bandwagon or chasing clout by splurging on overpriced JDM parts just to flex on the ‘gram. For me, Spoon parts have always been something special, a dream long before they became trendy. Back in 1998, when I was 16 and still in high school, owning rare JDM Spoon parts felt like a distant dream. Heck, I didn’t even own a Honda until 2000, when I was 18. It’s taken me nearly 20 years to finally afford some of these big-ticket Spoon items, and that makes them all the more meaningful to me.
Click the link below to read about the Spoon Wing and its install process.
Like many of you, I too started out buying the smaller, more affordable Spoon parts—oil caps, drain plugs, thermostats, fan switches, shift knobs, and strut bars—all proudly bearing the Spoon Sports name. I even managed to pick up a slightly used Spoon Sports flywheel for my first B16A swap back in 2002. As life progressed, I moved up the corporate ladder and landed higher-paying jobs, allowing me to level up to larger items like brake calipers, oil pans, and valve covers. But for years, the truly big-ticket parts were out of reach—mostly because I didn’t have $3,000 to $4,000 lying around to frivolously spend on Spoon parts.
Now that I’m doing well for myself, I’m finally making up for all the things I wished I could’ve had as a teenager. Call it nostalgia or whatever, but there’s something deeply satisfying about finally affording what was once out of reach and the sense of accomplishment it brings. Since getting my FK8, I’ve been on a Spoon mission, determined to make up for all those parts I couldn’t afford back in the day.
Sure, you could throw out the “I hAvE GoOd MoNeY bUt NoT gOoD tAsTe” argument, but let’s be real—most of those memes were made by people who can’t afford high-quality JDM parts and need to justify their choice of Titan 7s over TE37s. Yeah, there are plenty of folks who have money burning a hole in their pocket, buying these big-ticket Spoon parts just for clout to impress at meets and car shows, never truly utilizing them as they were intended.
But there are also those of us who aren’t driven by any of that. We don’t need to flex on Instagram or show off at cars and coffee events. We do it for ourselves—to walk out to the garage and think, “Damn, my car is fucking sick.” It’s about personal satisfaction, not seeking validation from others.
Honestly, my car sits quietly hidden away in the garage, usually only catching glimpses of the moonlight as I cruise around town like some Midnight Wangan character. Truth be told, there’s no one here—especially in Las Vegas, the uncultured place I call home—who’s going to get excited about seeing Spoon parts on my car, let alone even know what they are.
In the last 5-10 years, the focus of car modification seems to have shifted. While the thrill of the build, the satisfaction of overcoming challenges, and the joy of driving once took center stage, today, the emphasis often lies on social media validation and monetizing that validation. The pressure to build a car that garners likes and comments can overshadow the intrinsic rewards of the process. Modifications have become less about personal expression and more about chasing trends or styles and accumulating digital accolades. This shift diminishes the genuine enjoyment of the hobby, turning it into a pursuit driven by external validation rather than internal fulfillment.
The car scene these days is oversaturated with people obsessed with 0-60 times and extreme horsepower, scoffing at anything less than 500 horsepower. We, as enthusiasts, have forgotten the true joy of building a car and rely solely on others’ approval for gratification. We’ve become desensitized, constantly bombarded with 800-1,000+ horsepower builds on YouTube and social media, which creates a warped reality where we believe the entire car world revolves around this and you’re not cool if you don’t have that. In reality, having all that horsepower isn’t practical on the street, nor do you truly get the chance to exploit that power to its fullest. A 200-300 horsepower lightweight car would give most of the high-powered builds a run for their money on the streets.
Remember the idiom: “It’s more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow.” It’s not about chasing clout or impressing others—it’s about truly enjoying your hobby for yourself and building something unique that others may not fully appreciate, but that brings you genuine fulfillment. Leave the pissing contest to those seeking virtual validation.
Whoa, that got a little off track… Let me step off my soapbox now. I apologize if I got a bit carried away, but the car scene today feels frustratingly lacking. It’s wild how easily we all become self-proclaimed “experts” just from watching biased car review YouTube channels. The fact that so many blindly trust opinions from people with no real experience and accept them as gospel blows my mind. Then there are these so-called experts spreading that same flawed information on Facebook car pages and forums, further fueling the cycle of misleading opinions and misinformation. It’s frustrating to watch that spread and become accepted as truth.
What Makes Spoon Special:
Anyway, let’s talk a bit about what makes Spoon Sports such a unique and special company. For those new to the scene, I want to shed some light on why their parts are so highly regarded and sought after.
Spoon Sports has a rich heritage rooted in Honda tuning and motorsports. Founded by Tatsuru Ichishima in 1988, the brand’s philosophy centers around creating high-performance, reliable parts designed specifically for Honda vehicles. Spoon parts are known for their precision engineering and rigorous testing, ensuring they perform exceptionally even under the demands of racing. What sets Spoon apart is their commitment to enhancing the natural balance of Honda vehicles, offering noticeable improvements in power, handling, and drivability—all while maintaining the reliability that Hondas are known for.
The exclusivity of Spoon parts only adds to their appeal. They’re not mass-produced, which makes them rare and highly desirable. The iconic yellow and blue livery has become a symbol within the Honda community. For many, owning Spoon parts isn’t just about upgrades—it’s a statement of dedication to Honda performance. Spoon’s influence extends beyond cars, appearing in video games, movies, and motorsports, further solidifying their status as an icon in the automotive world.
Ultimately, Spoon Sports represents the pinnacle of reliability and Honda performance. Whether it’s engine components, suspension upgrades, or body parts, their offerings deliver a balanced, cohesive driving experience that stands out from the crowd. For enthusiasts who value performance and longevity, Spoon Sports has earned its place as a must-have brand— often imitated but never duplicated.
On To The Aero Mirrors:
This shouldn’t come as a shock, but just like with the Spoon Wing, I saved myself a ton of money by ordering through RHDJapan.com. Honestly, it’s one of the most underrated ways to get your hands on pure, uncut JDM goodness straight from Japan. Why pay the hefty “JDM Tax” slapped on by U.S.-based companies importing the same genuine parts when you can go straight to the source and score them for a fraction of the price?
Unfortunately, like everything else these days, international shipping costs have skyrocketed, so the once-amazing deals from RHDJapan aren’t quite as good as they used to be. Sure, you’ll still save money compared to buying from U.S.-based companies, but let’s face it—the good ol’ days of snagging unbeatable bargains on genuine JDM parts are long gone.
However, I do want to show you what the mirrors cost purchased and shipped from Japan, compared to them being purchased and shipped from the U.S.
Total price shipped to my house through RHDJapan.com is $1,276.77.
Through Spoons own US based distributor, Spoonusa.com/Gotuning.com the mirrors are 1,711.15 shipped to my house.
And surprisingly enough, I found Evasive motorsports selling them for below the average price of other online retailers.
- Evasive was selling them for 1,825.09 shipped to my house.
- All other retailers were well above 2,100 shipped to my house.
Despite SpoonUSA offering a competitive price, you still could have saved even more by ordering from RHDJapan.com—a difference of $434.38 USD, to be exact! That kind of saving makes high-end JDM parts much more accessible for true enthusiasts willing to plan ahead.
Now, let’s address the elephant in the room: lead times. No matter where you order your boutique JDM parts—be it the U.S. or Japan—there’s almost always a wait involved. Enthusiasts lovingly refer to this as the “JDM wait time,” a rite of passage for those chasing rare parts.
Delays? Patience?! In the age of Amazon Prime and instant gratification, waiting months for a car part sounds absurd. But true enthusiasts know better, right? Time is money, after all, and saving $400 only to wait months for a part? That’s basically heresy in the performance world. Why wait to show off your rare JDM goods when you could have them now? Otherwise, you might as well drive a pedestrian sedan. (Alright, maybe that was a bit too much satire. Bear with me.)
Let’s be honest, though—some people only buy JDM parts for the Instagram clout. For them, it’s less about the driving experience and more about impressing their followers, and they need to be “FiRsT In ThE u.S.” to have them. Meanwhile, folks like me are perfectly fine waiting a little longer, saving a ton of money, and enjoying the thrill of a parts upgrade without maxing out our credit cards while striving for viral validation.
So here’s the bottom line: If you’re not buying your JDM parts from RHDJapan.com (or even Blackhawk or Nengun), then congratulations—you played yourself (cue DJ Khaled). That said, I can only vouch for RHDJapan.com because I’ve been ordering from them since 2008, back when many of you were still learning to appreciate cars. I know people who’ve used Blackhawk and Nengun with good results, but I’ll stick to what I know and trust.
And about those shipping concerns—RHDJapan goes above and beyond. They always wrap their packages in plain brown paper to keep savvy eyes along the shipping route from identifying your precious Spoon parts (or other JDM brands). Trust me, it’s a godsend in ensuring your package doesn’t mysteriously “go missing” somewhere between Japan and your doorstep.
Here is how the package arrived at my doorstep. Discreetly packed to not tip off any potential thievery.
Then once you peel back the inconspicuous brown paper, you reveal exciting JDM goodness.
I need to rant again for a second because, honestly, the only thing worse than a thief is someone shameless enough to capitalize on those too-good-to-be-true prices on Marketplace or OfferUp. Have you ever stopped to think about where those deals come from? Imagine the gut punch of having your parts stolen—items you’ve saved for months to buy—only to have someone else snatch them up for next to nothing, completely oblivious or indifferent to the theft behind it. It’s not just a financial loss; it’s a betrayal of the community. If you’re the kind of person who turns a blind eye just to save a few bucks, you’re part of the problem, and I hope you get smallpox.
C’mon, don’t act like you don’t know someone—or at least know someone who knows someone—who would spot that iconic Spoon Sports logo and suddenly it “falls off” the truck straight onto Marketplace. There it is, gleaming in all its glory, with a price so suspiciously low that you start questioning your own morals instead of theirs. But hey, who could resist? It’s practically a steal—oh wait, it is a steal.
And let’s not pretend you genuinely believe the brand-new Milwaukee 1/2-inch impact gun, still sealed in its original packaging, landed in your hands because someone “fell on hard times.” You think they’re liquidating all their shiny, expensive, unopened tools to pay for grandmas dialysis? No, my friend. THEY STOLE IT FROM HOME DEPOT, YOU DINGUS.
I’m savoring every precious moment of unboxing!
Again, RHDJapan goes above and beyond by adding extra layers of bubble packing to ensure your parts don’t get damaged on the long journey from Japan to America.
Look at all that added protection.
Oh. My. God. THEY’RE EVEN BETTER IN PERSON! I’m absolutely losing my mind right now—pictures don’t do them justice! The lines, the details, the sheer presence—it’s everything I dreamed of and then some.
The gel coat and raw finish are top-notch, meaning there is less prep work involved in preparing them for paint.
Here, you can see how the mirrors are assembled. The two smaller T-25 Torx bolts secure the bracket to which the mirror glass is attached, while the larger singular hex bolt holds the entire mirror housing to the base.
They are so sick; I just wanted to take as many pictures as I can to help show you from every angle just how sick they are.
Spoon also includes a unique pièce de résistance exclusive to the FK8 aero mirrors. Since the OEM mirrors come with integrated turn signals, Spoon provides a wiring harness to ensure you stay legally compliant after installing their mirrors. The harness allows you to convert your fender side markers into blinkers. Once installed, activating the turn signal lever in the car will also make your side markers blink.
Gotta love that iconic Spoon tag.
Prep and Paint:
Unfortunately, these mirrors don’t come painted, so any cost savings from purchasing them through RHDJapan.com will likely go toward prepping and painting. Leaving fiberglass body panels raw isn’t ideal due to their vulnerability to UV damage, moisture absorption, surface contamination, and reduced durability. Plus, raw panels look unfinished and can degrade over time, making future finishing more challenging. Applying primer, paint, or a protective coating not only enhances their appearance but also preserves their integrity.
Long before I purchased my FK8—five years ago now—I knew I wanted an aftermarket hood to improve heat management. However, the hood I chose came raw and needed to be painted to match the car. I had some reservations about this; choosing someone to paint your car can feel even riskier than finding and trusting someone to tune it. On the other hand, I’ve never been a fan of all-carbon fiber hoods on newer Hondas—they just don’t look as good as they did on the golden-era models. So, a full carbon fiber hood was off the table, making paint matching an absolute must.
After searching locally and weighing my options, I settled on a highly recommended painter. He’d done a few of my friends’ entire cars, and their results were impressive, so I decided to trust him with the hood.
Well, long story short—since this post isn’t about the hood but it’s still relevant—my first attempt at getting the hood paint-matched didn’t go so well. Don’t get me wrong, the quality of the work was excellent, and the clear coat looked like glass. However, the color was just slightly off compared to the fenders, and I couldn’t live with that. Fortunately, the painter kindly offered to redo it at no additional charge to improve the match, which I really appreciated.
Still, I was willing to pay again to add some extra incentive and ensure the color matched perfectly. To his credit, he did mention that achieving a flawless match without blending the paint into the nearby panels would be challenging. But with the car being so new, I was determined to get it right and not have to repaint the fenders or A-pillars of my brand-new car, which had less than 600 miles on it at the time.
So, he repainted the hood a second time, giving it his best effort to match the color, but unfortunately, the result still wasn’t perfect. It was much closer, no doubt, but under fluorescent garage lighting, the slight difference was still noticeable. Rather than go for a third attempt, I’ve just chosen to live with it since it’s not that bad. See if you can spot the difference below.
Overcast afternoon at Buttonwillow. This is the only picture I have of the hood from the first time he painted it, before having him repaint it a second time. In this shot, you can see the paint didn’t match. All the other pictures below were taken after the hood was repainted and matched slightly better.
AR (after repaint): Not that noticeable in the natural daylight, especially in the “golden hour”
Same day/time/location just zoomed out a bit and you can barely see the difference in the hood and the fender.
Totally different day, week, and even year, but still with natural light in the later afternoon or evening. Focus your attention on the hood where it meets the fender, and you might be able to spot the slight difference.
Now, here it is under the harsh fluorescent garage lights, where the difference becomes much less subtle.
Here it is on a sunny afternoon.
Again, in direct afternoon sunlight.
Another golden hour one.
And lastly, on a cloudy, overcast, wet day.
So, first, after not having any success in having the hood matched previously, and second, due to the mirrors being smaller and more intricate, making them more prone to potential damage, I decided to take on the task of painting them myself. I’m not saying these mirrors are fragile—they’re built well, as expected from Spoon. However, their smaller size makes them more susceptible to damage from carelessness or neglect, something I wanted to avoid at all costs. No matter what I paid, I felt that no one could fully appreciate just how unique and rare these mirrors are. The thought of them being precariously perched, vulnerable to even the slightest mishap, was something I couldn’t ignore. I entrusted no one but myself to ensure they were properly prepped and painted.
Again, just to be clear, nothing went wrong when my hood was painted (other than the color not matching perfectly). I simply wasn’t willing to take any chances with these mirrors, especially given the likelihood that getting them professionally painted wouldn’t guarantee a perfect match. I figured I had just as good a chance as anyone else to get them to match, but I would treat them as if they were my own—because, well, they actually are my own.
After scouring the depths of the internet for countless hours—if not days—desperately seeking the holy grail of how-to guides on painting fiberglass body panels with a rattle can, I finally felt somewhat prepared. I gathered all the supplies I needed, ready to take on the ambitious task of a DIY garage spray-can job. In my mind, this wasn’t just a project—it was a personal journey. I was both the hero and the villain, the captain of success or the architect of failure. But deep down, I knew there was no one out there with the same relentless drive to ensure those mirrors came out absolutely flawless.
I figured my best chance at achieving a perfect color match was to order a “guaranteed” color match spray can from a reputable online company. As you’ll see below, I had to order both the Championship White color and the Berlina Black color to paint both the mirror housing and the mirror bases as well.
Since there’s so much “Piano Black” trim on these cars, I followed Spoon’s lead on the paint scheme and painted the bases black and the mirrors housings white. The thought of doing them all white did cross my mind, but I wasn’t sure how that would look. In the end, sticking with the Spoon approach just complements the car better.
Here is the first mirror I was set to disassemble in preparation to paint.
As mentioned earlier, the mirror is secured to the base with a single large hex head bolt.
To access the nuts that secure the bolt, you must first remove the mirror glass from the mirror housing. This requires removing the two T-25 Torx (star-shaped) bolts that secure the mirror bracket to the mirror housing.
With the glass removed, you can now access the double-jamb nuts that allow you to loosen and remove the large hex bolt holding the mirror housing to the base.
Love that Spoon logo, forever secured in fiberglass resin, not only symbolizing authenticity but also placed there to proudly represent the company’s dedication to craftsmanship and design.
This angle might give you a better understanding of what’s going on. I was also taking this picture to reference later while reassembling, to check how much tension Spoon had applied to the spring—specifically, counting how many threads were visible above the jamb nuts.
Using a 13mm combo wrench on one side and a 6mm Allen wrench on the other, you can loosen the bolt and separate the mirror housing from the base plate.
Now, you can see the removed components and the large hex bolt that secures the housing to the base.
The spring provides the necessary tension on the mirror housing, ensuring the mirrors stay fixed and stable, while still allowing them to fold when needed.
Pro tip: To ensure you don’t lose or misplace any of this hardware, I suggest reassembling it exactly as it was removed. This way, when it’s time to reassemble in 7 months (foreshadowing), you’ll have all the necessary hardware and know the correct orientation.
The base plate has a some sort of HDPE (high density polyethylene) plastic riveted to it with three small ball bearing in it.
As you can see below, the mirror housing has a metal piece attached, featuring two sets of three holes. These holes accommodate the ball bearings, which secure the mirror in either its extended (normal driving) position or its folded-in position. To me, this is a great example of Spoon’s clever engineering.
Here’s a close-up of the HDPE plastic and ball bearings. Be careful—these bearings come out very easily, and if they hit the garage floor, they’ll bounce away, likely disappearing into the dark realm never to be seen again. This is yet another reason I didn’t trust anyone else to paint these. It would be far too easy for someone to lose one, two, or even all three bearings and then reassemble the mirror without them after painting. Sure, everything might still fit together, and you might not even notice at first. But without all the bearings, there’d be less resistance keeping the mirror from folding in under high wind force. Plus, missing bearings would make aligning both mirrors symmetrically an OCD nightmare. Yes, I overthink, assume the worst, and—hi, my name is Billy.
Here’s a close-up of the mirror housing metal plate, showing the holes where the balls lock into place.
See! these are tiny and very easy to lose.
Here’s how the mirror glass is made adjustable and mounted to the mirror housing. It follows a similar concept to how the mirror housing attaches to the base. You can adjust the preload tension, making the mirror easier or harder to adjust. Increasing the tension helps prevent the mirror from shifting over time due to bumps in the road or when jumping curbs on the track. Remember, these are designed to handle the rigors of track abuse, unlike those cheap, knock-off “Craft Square” mirrors where you need to tape the glass in place.
See below the curvature of the mirror glass.
One thing to note is that Spoon uses rivnuts to provide threads in the mirror glass bracket instead of welding or permanently attaching nuts to the metal bracket. While rivnuts have their place in the garage, they may not have been the best choice for this specific application—let me explain why.
Rivnuts are known to occasionally lose their grip on the part they’re attached to. When this happens, loosening a bolt threaded into the rivnut can become frustrating, as the rivnut may spin freely, making it impossible to remove the bolt. Therefore, it’s best to use rivnuts only in situations where you can easily access the back side of the rivnut. This allows you to use pliers to prevent it from spinning if it loses its grip on the material it’s installed in. That way, you won’t end up banging your head against a wall trying to remove the bolt.
With these mirrors, if the glass can’t be removed, you won’t be able to separate the mirror housing from the base. While this isn’t a major issue in theory—since they’re designed to be assembled only once—aftermarket parts, even high-quality ones like Spoon, often lack the extensive R&D of OEM components. This makes them more prone to loosening or requiring adjustments over longer periods of time.
At some point, you’ll likely need to retighten, reposition, or perform a bolt check. If the rivnuts start spinning, you won’t be able to remove the bolts to make adjustments or re-cinch the jamb nuts after the spring has worn in a bit.
Honestly, I was a bit disappointed by Spoon’s choice to use rivnuts here. A simple tack weld to secure a nut in place would have been a more durable solution. But hey, I suppose every company cuts costs somewhere along the way.
In hindsight, now thinking about it, I should have dabbed some JB Weld (or similar) on the rivnuts to ensure that I don’t encounter this issue in the future. I would advise that you consider doing this during assembly.
Below are the three main components of the mirror:
- Mirror housing.
- Base plate.
- Mirror glass.
Here we go! The first base plate is prepped and primed, and wow—it turned out amazing, if I do say so myself. But oh, if only I’d known what I was getting into. This little project was about to chew me up and spit me out. Seven months of my life, gone. And let’s not forget the endless parade of frustrating redo’s that popped up at every step along the way.
Keep in mind, although not documented in pictures, there was initial sanding and prep work that was done prior to even applying the primer. As you’ll read further down in the post, I just didn’t document it.
Remember, I’m painting the base plate Berlina Black which is why I’m using dark primer.
Sanded it down and quickly realized that I shouldn’t have been using a sanding block and that I needed to improve not only my technique but also my finesse. I was too aggressive on the edges and quickly sanded through the primer, meaning I now had to redo the whole primer process again.
After a grueling crash course in “How to Hate Your Own Project,” I took my hard-earned wisdom and applied it to the mirror housings. Shockingly, I actually managed to knock those out after only a few redo’s—probably because the universe decided I’d suffered enough. For now. Don’t worry though, the universe was only teasing me and had much more pain and frustration planned for me.
Since the mirror housings were already white thanks to the fiberglass finish, getting proper coverage with the white primer was an absolute joy—because who doesn’t love playing a game of “Is it covered, or am I just imagining things?” I’ll also admit (begrudgingly) that I sanded through the primer a couple of times, which, as you can imagine, was super fun and not frustrating at all. And let’s not forget the endless sharp edges on the housing’s design, which made sanding not just the primer but later the paint and clear coat an absolute dream of a task. Truly, a labor of love. Or maybe I’m just a glutton for punishment.
Despite all of that, I eventually managed to get them primed to a level that, dare I say, met my very elevated standards.
After a few days, I mustered up the courage to give the base plates a second attempt. This meant completely sanding the primer back down to ensure it was level, blowing off any remaining dust particles, cleaning it with prep spray, and then wiping down every surface with a tack cloth. I would also go on to repeat these steps many, many times throughout my entire journey.
Below you can see I’m now at the painted stage for both mirror housings and base plates.
After a steep learning curve, I finally mastered the proper sanding technique and got these bad boys all smoothed out, ready for the clear coat to be laid down like glass.
And as you can see, the results speak for themselves.
You’ll notice that the mounting area on the base plates could have been sanded a bit more. It was challenging to sand this area because the fiberglass and HDPE plastic weren’t level, making it too risky to work within the 1/4-inch area around the HDPE plastic for fear of sanding through the primer or the paint (again) on the edges. However, this isn’t a major issue, as the mirror housing completely covers this area, hiding it from view. I ensured there was sufficient primer and paint applied to fully seal the fiberglass from the elements.
As you can see, the thin part of the base plate facing the camera has three small imperfections. Not to worry—these won’t be visible once it’s mounted, as this section fits into the door. I chose not to sand it down further to avoid over-thinning the paint on an already delicate part, especially with its hard, sharp edges on both sides. And don’t worry—I had plenty of experience sanding through edges during the rest of this project.
Here’s a closer look at my work from a different angle to show that there is no trickery going on with the angles at which I take the pictures.
And again, another angle for transparency.
After nearly five weeks, everything is prepped, primed, and painted. They are now ready for the clear coat.
Once again, I’m just showcasing it from different angles.
With the paint and clear applied, I, of course, ended up with some fisheye or orange peel—whatever you want to call it. Either way, it became my arch-nemesis over the next few months, leaving me frustrated and forcing me to completely restart from square one multiple times because I would always end up sanding too far down and into the layer beneath, prompting yet another redo. Laying down clear like glass is truly an art form of which I have never dabbled.
Despite white being able to better hide the fisheye, with my fluorescent light shining on the mirror housing, you could clearly see it.
Then there were the black base plates—holy moly, they were a nightmare. They ended up needing to be wet-sanded and re-cleared a few more times to achieve the results I was striving for.
So I wet sanded them back down and recoated them.
Be careful of those edges…
Due to my limited experience with paint and bodywork, every time I had to sand down clear coat, paint, or primer, it often meant starting over from scratch—sanding everything back to the raw gelcoat because I would inevitably sand too far down. By the end, the process had become incredibly frustrating. I lacked the skills to know exactly what I was doing, and I’d get so frustrated with myself for sanding too aggressively. More often than not, I’d end up sanding through the clear coat, paint, or primer, forcing me to restart the entire process.
With the clear up to my standard, it was finally time to cut and buff them. I made a makeshift mount for the mirror bases, allowing me to use a DA polisher without worrying about them moving around. I basically just bolted the base plates to this 2×6 piece.
Even at this stage, I was still making rookie mistakes. Due to the small surface area and sharp edges, I ended up burning through the clear coat on one of the base plates. This forced me to carefully sand down and even out the clear coat before repeating the application process, hoping it would lay down smoothly and remain free of any foreign objects or contaminants.
In the end, I couldn’t have been happier with the results—despite the literal years I lost to the stress, countless mistakes, and the feeling that I aged a decade every time I had to start over.
Here they are, in all their finished glory—cleared to spec, cut, buffed, and fully reassembled, ready to be mounted on the car.
Installation:
It’s finally the moment I’ve been waiting for over the past 7 months: the installation! I was beyond eager to get these on. In my humble opinion, the mirrors on the FK8 are way too big and bulky, throwing off the overall look. These smaller, sleeker mirrors were what I was really excited for.
This picture below also happens to do a great job highlighting the fact that my hood color doesn’t match (damn fluorescent garage lights)
I previously had the Spoon Blue Wide Side Mirrors. But hey, despite not being able to afford the full Spoon Aero mirrors at the time, I still made it a point to buy genuine Spoon blue wide mirrors as opposed to the other knockoff brands out there.
To remove the OEM mirrors, you’ll need to access the bolts hidden behind the door tweeter. At first, I was hesitant about removing the door panels, mainly due to concerns about breaking clips or damaging any parts, preventing it from going back together as it left the factory. However, it turned out to be much simpler than I expected. Many of those worries were self-created obstacles that weren’t as daunting as I initially thought. Classic overthinker… Am I right!
Begin by opening the door.
Then, use a plastic interior pry tool and gently work around the control panel until it pops out.
There are only clips holding it in place, and as long as you go slow and work evenly around the piece, it will pop out without breaking or damaging any clips.
With it popped all the way out, you just need to disconnect the two plugs, and the control panel can now be set out of the way.
With the control panel out of the way, you can now see one singular Phillips head screw that needs to be removed.
Here is what the screw looks like removed.
With that one screw removed, you can now start pulling the door panel away from the door, beginning at the speaker area and slowly working around the bottom in a clockwise rotation, moving towards the back end of the door, and then along the top. By now, the entire door panel should be ready for removal.
Now you can access the tweeter panel and gently pull it away from the door.
Now you will be able to disconnect the tweeter plug and completely remove the whole assembly from the car.
Next, since the OEM mirror is powered, heated, and features an integrated turn signal, you’ll need to disconnect the plug and cut the clip securing the wiring harness to the door.
Now, loosen the three 10mm bolts that fasten the mirror to the door
Make sure you hold the mirror with one hand while loosening the nuts with the other, as the mirror will fall out of the door once the last nut is removed if you don’t.
Here’s what it looks like from the outside without a mirror.
Here is a size comparison of the two mirrors.
The Spoon one is nearly half the size.
Next you will need to install the included weather stripping.
With the mirror removed, you now also have the access to clean out the road grime and dirt that has accumulated behind the mirror base plate over the years.
And Viola! it’s all installed.
It looks so much better.
Chef’s kiss!
Here’s a quick comparison between the OEM and Spoon mirror. I’ll have to end it here for tonight since I can’t fully open the passenger door, which means I’d need to start the car and flip it around. However, it’s after midnight, and my car is so loud that I’m sure to wake the baby.
…The next day.
Got the car all flipped around, and boy does it look fucking sick! That Spoon Aero mirror design just complements the extreme body lines of the FK8 so well.
Here is another comparison of the OEM driver side mirror I had removed last night and the passenger side Spoon mirror I will be installing today.
The size difference is huge.
You can also notice how much bluer the actual Spoon mirror is compared to just the Spoon glass that gets stuck onto the OEM mirror.
As a refresher, in the daylight, I’m just referencing the size and style of the OEM mirror.
Again, we’ll go through the same removal process for the passenger side as we did for the driver’s side the night before.
Gently work a plastic interior panel pry tool around the control panel.
Unplug the control panel and remove it completely from the car, then unscrew the single Phillips head screw.
Again, just referencing the size of the screw.
Now start pulling at the bottom of the door near the speaker.
Pull gently and smoothly, being careful not to make major jerking movements that could break the plastic clips or damage the mounting locations on the door panel.
Use your left hand to keep the door panel pried away from the door while moving your right hand along the bottom of the panel, gently and smoothly pulling it away popping one clip at a time.
Now that half of the door panel is pulled away, move your left hand just below the map pocket, and use your right hand to continue sliding along the bottom of the panel. Gently pop out each clip as you work your way up the backside in a counterclockwise direction until the panel is fully released.
Again to removing the tweeter panel is very easy as it just pops out by unclipping.
Gently and evenly pull the bottom part outward and the whole thing will unclip.
Then simply unplug the tweeter wiring from the tweeter and set aside the whole assembly.
Just as I did on the other side, you’ll need to disconnect the mirror wiring harness using the white connector.
Then snip the cable tie that is securing the mirror harness.
Now, remove the three 10mm bolts, making sure to hold onto the mirror as you remove the final bolt to prevent it from falling and breaking
This is a centering pin that extends on both sides. Both the OEM mirror base plate and the Spoon base plate have provisions that help align the mirror, ensuring it sits perfectly centered. Leave this pin in place.
Hot dog, they look too dang good.
Here’s the backside of the door panel for reference, showing the green clips that secure it to the door. These clips slide into the panel and should be handled carefully during removal. Pulling too hard can damage the clips or the panel, making it difficult to secure properly and leading to rattling when the car is running, driving, or both.
Here’s a zoomed-out picture to show the number of clips.
Look at that fitment! This is why you pay extra money; those panel gaps are arguably better than when the OEM mirror was on.
Big compliments to the painter— that reflection is damn near perfect.
GOOD LORD!
Again just showing off that paint work. If you can’t tell, this is the reflection in the Berlina black painted mirror base plate.
It’s probably time to take the numbers off my car—it’s been a year since my last track day, after all. In the spirit of practicing what I preach, I’ll follow my own advice and avoid being one of those posers who keep numbers on their car when it spends more time on the street than the track. When I finally make it back out there (and I’m sure I will… or at least I hope I will), I’ll just go back to using blue tape. It feels like the right move and a small step toward keeping things authentic.
As I peel each one away, I can’t help but feel like I’m losing a part of who I was and while I know it’s just a sticker, it feels like admitting that part of my life has faded.
As many of you know, Angie and I had a baby almost two years ago. Becoming a parent has been a profound adjustment in so many ways, but one of the biggest changes has been how it’s shifted my perspective on what really matters in life. For the past 25 years, I’ve lived by a “work hard, make money, and spend it how you want” ethos—screaming “fuck financial security” with pride and conviction. It was a mindset that defined me, one that felt freeing and true.
But now, with this little life depending on me, everything feels different. What used to feel like freedom now feels reckless, and I’ve been forced to rethink what “security” means, not just for me but for my family. It’s humbling and a little terrifying to confront how much I need to grow, but it’s also grounding in a way I didn’t expect. This new chapter is reshaping me, and I’m still figuring out who I am in all of it. I just know that I’m not going to be a selfish deadbeat dad.
It’s not just about the car; it’s about what it represents. It’s a piece of me, a reminder of who I was and the passions that made me feel alive. Letting go, even just a little, feels like losing part of myself. I don’t want to look back one day and wonder if I traded too much of who I am for the person I thought I needed to be. But at the same time, I know life is different now, and I want to embrace it for all that it is. Still, the fear lingers—of losing the balance, of losing myself.
As the last sticker peels away, I can’t ignore the knot in my stomach. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t afraid—afraid that I’m on the verge of becoming one of those clichés. The guy who has a kid, sells his car, and slowly fades into the monotony that so many others in my position seem to fall into.
Welp, this is a strange feeling. Who am I now, and who am I becoming? Angie has made it her mission to ensure I don’t turn into the stereotypical dad who gives up everything to become “just” a family man. I love her so much for that, for trying so hard to keep the spark alive in me. But here I am, 42 years old, wondering why I fight so hard to hold onto my passions. Why not just sell it all and put the money toward family vacations to Disneyland, ballet lessons, or buying an SUV so it’s not embarrassing trying to pile the whole family in a 2019 Fit or a 2009 Civic four-door.
For now, I’m going to keep fighting the urge to let go of what’s defined me for the past 25 years. I know there’s a world where those two sides can coexist, but I’m not naive enough to believe I can hold onto this passion with the same intensity as before. I’m fully aware that sacrifices will have to be made, and I’ll hold out as long as I can before truly stepping away.
Because, at the end of the day, it’s not about me anymore. It’s about our daughter—her joy, her future, and making sure she has everything she needs to thrive. That’s my responsibility now, and the weight of it is as humbling as it is overwhelming. I tell myself there’s room for both—for her happiness and mine—but some days, I’m not so sure. And that’s the scariest part: wondering if I can hold onto enough of myself while giving her everything she deserves.
Maybe, someday, when she’s older, my daughter will share in my love for this hobby. Maybe she’ll enjoy spending time with me, participating in it the way I’ve always dreamed. But that’s out of my hands—her interests, her passions, they’re hers alone. All I can do is hope, and trust that if she finds joy in it, we’ll have those moments together.
Part of being a father is knowing when to let things go, even when it’s hard. The danger is, once you walk away, reigniting that passion is often near impossible. You end up as the cliché—“my dad used to have cool stuff, but now he’s just a fat, washed-up has-been.” I don’t want that, but I also know how easy it is to lose a part of yourself. It’s a fear I can’t shake, and one I’ll keep wrestling with as long as I’m still here.
Oh brother.. I’m sorry for that emotional ride I just sent you on. Let’s get back to the mirror installation.
As I mentioned earlier, one of the unique features that Spoon includes in their Aero Mirror kit is a wiring harness designed to convert your side markers into blinkers. By replacing the blinkers integrated into the mirrors and using the side markers as turn signals, I assume this helps maintain compliance with Japanese traffic laws. While this isn’t a requirement here in the U.S. (well, at least in Nevada), I think it’s a cool detail that helps set your car apart from other FK8s. I know the mirrors alone are already enough to break free from the cookie-cutter FK8 modifications, but with this added conversion, your side markers will flash when you activate the turn signal, adding an extra layer of uniqueness. I’m honestly more excited for this than I think I should be. This will either go unnoticed, or most likely someone will assume you’ve done some sort of distasteful modification to make it blink.
By turning the side marker into a blinker, I now get to play my favorite little game: “How much of an enthusiast are you really?” It’s a passive-aggressive way for me to gently remind you that assuming I’ve slapped on some cheap Amazon/Chinese novelty flasher modification couldn’t be further from the truth. It’s one of those unwritten “IFKYK” things, and if you don’t, well, clearly, you’re not the die-hard enthusiast I hoped you’d be.
It’s kind of like asking someone who claims to be a Spoon Sports expert: “What’s the difference between a Spoon Sports steering wheel and a traditional MOMO Monte Carlo… besides the horn button?” If they can’t tell you, then, well, sorry, they’re probably not as hardcore into Spoon Sports as they’d like you to believe. It’s all about those small details that separate the true enthusiasts from the pretenders.
Here are said integrated turn signals.
Here’s the aforementioned conversion harness. Yes, Spoon does pre-install the Scotchlok connectors, which not only ensure the install is 100% reversible but also make the installation incredibly simple.
So first things first, I need to pull away the splash shield to allow me access to the light socket on the backside of the side marker and to reach my hand in to fish the new wiring harness through.
As you can see, the 275 tires slightly rub on an 18×9.5 +45 offset wheel. With Swift springs and -3 degrees of front camber, achieved by removing the strut guide pin and installing EVS camber ball joints set to the middle setting.
It was at this moment that I had a bit of a “duh” realization. Let me see if you can figure it out. To give you a hint: what do USDM FK8 enthusiasts need to do when installing JDM clear side markers? That’s right—USDM bulb sockets need to be swapped over to the JDM side markers because the USDM and JDM bulb sockets use different style wire harness connectors.
This means that if you want to install JDM clear side markers on your USDM FK8, the USDM wiring harness won’t connect to the JDM bulb socket. To make it work, you’ll need to swap the white USDM bulb socket from the orange USDM side marker to the clear JDM side marker, replacing the grey JDM bulb socket in the process.
Now, take a moment and ponder that. Where is Spoon is based, and what kind of plug do you think their conversion wiring harness is designed for? Spoiler: It’s definitely not for USDM bulb sockets.
This meant I was done for the night as I could not complete the side marker to blinker conversion. I had to jump on ICB and order me a set of JDM side markers that came with… of course, the JDM bulb socket.
A few days later, I found myself doing exactly what I swore I’d never do—and what I had just recently mocked Marlon for doing on his BRZ. I received and installed JDM clear side markers, arguably one of the most played-out FK8 “mods” besides slapping a VTECTURBO decal on your hatch glass. You know the kind, the ones that are cheap and it’s cute because it’s JDM… Kinda like putting a red H on your Acura Integra.
But hold on because I’m about to justify the crap out of this and let you all in on a little secret.
Despite my best efforts to resist, I always had a deep, simmering desire to install JDM clear side markers and satisfy my inner ricer. On the surface, I played the role of the self-righteous bully, tearing down anyone who dared to go clear. I was so thoroughly judgmental of people who opted for JDM clears that I managed to suppress my inner ricer, strutting around like some kind of enlightened enthusiast, proudly preaching how utterly foolish it was to make JDM clears your first mod. I even went so far as to convince myself that the orange side markers were superior—after all, this is America! The orange is our color, and we must honor it with undying pride.
But, alas, a real reason presented itself—a way to justify satisfying my inner ricer by finally making the switch to JDM clears. I needed those elusive JDM bulb sockets, and the only way to get them was to purchase the JDM clear side markers. Sure, technically, I could have reached out to fellow FK8 enthusiasts who had already made the leap to JDM clears. I’m sure many of them still had the gray, useless JDM bulb sockets that often come with those side markers lying around. Most likely, they would’ve just handed them over for free. But hey, I’m over here trying to justify why I needed to order and install JDM clear side markers. What good is sound reasoning when you can just buy more cool JDM stuff.
See below how the JDM clear side markers that come with the grey JDM bulb socket preinstalled happily accept the wiring harness provided by Spoon; it was meant to be! This is, of course, because Spoon uses OEM plugs for Japanese cars when assembling the conversion harnesses.
Ok, now I’m ready to officially do this. Here is what it looks like with the USDM orange side markers.
With the USDM side marker removed you can clearly see the difference in the bulb sockets compared to the JDM one.
Coincidentally, the USDM one is fatter and bulkier, while the JDM one is skinnier and more delicate. Is this some inside joke dreamt up by Japanese engineers with a twisted sense of humor, or just a really unfortunate coincidence? Either way, I’m not sure if I should be impressed or offended.
I’m sure some of you are wondering, “Why not just swap the JDM socket onto the USDM side marker and stick with the orange, keeping it ‘faithful’ to USDM glory remaining on my high horse?” Technically, sure, I could do that. But let’s be real here—I’m trying to justify spending nearly 200 bucks on these JDM side markers. I didn’t shell out all that cash to only use the 25-cent bulb sockets. No, no, I’m going to get my full 200 bucks worth. Because why let practicality get in the way when you’ve already decided to throw money at something as pointless as JDM clear side markers?
Alright, let’s settle this once and for all: I don’t need to explain or justify why I can righteously rock JDM clear side markers while the rest of you losers can’t. It’s just the natural order of things. However, in my infinite generosity, I’ll grant you permission to run JDM clears on your USDM car if—and only if—you’ve invested in Spoon mirrors and converted your side markers into blinkers (which, of course, requires JDM bulb sockets). That’s the standard. No Spoon mirrors? No blinking side markers? Then step away from the JDM clears, because you haven’t earned the right—and let’s face it, slapping OEM JDM parts on a USDM car has been dead since the early 2000s.
And before you rage-quit this page because you think I’m an arrogant, self-righteous, egotistical hypocrite, don’t take it too personally. At least you’re not in the absolute bottom-tier club of people defiling their cars with cheap, soulless Chinese/Amazon smoked or clear knockoffs. Those plebs? Beyond hopeless. You, however, managed a fleeting moment of decency by sticking at least with OEM Honda side markers—which, honestly, is only a mild consolation. So, no, you’re not completely hopeless—just delightfully misguided.
Here’s a MEME to better illustrate what I mean.
Alright, alright, enough with the satire—let’s get to the wiring part of the install. If you’re scared about shorting something out, then you should go to chur… ahem, disconnect the battery. Personally, I left mine connected and didn’t have any issues, do what helps you sleep at night.
To install the wiring harnesses you will need to locate the headlight plug in the engine bay (plugged into the headlight). On the drivers side (the side pictured below) It’s a bit tucked away but not completely inaccessible.
it’s definitely down in there.
Unplug it.
Thankfully, Spoon includes wiring instructions, though unfortunately, they’re in Japanese. It’s not a huge deal, as you can generally figure out what they’re instructing. However, just to be sure I wasn’t missing anything, I used Google Lens to translate.
Original:
Translated:
Now that you’ve identified the two wires you’ll be tapping into, position the plug so you have good access to it from all sides. You may need to peel back some electrical tape and possibly remove a few inches of conduit, depending on how much wire is exposed after removing the tape.
Here, you can see that I’ve successfully tapped the two wires from the conversion harness into the headlight harness. Next, you’ll need to route the conversion harness to the side marker. There are several holes and routing options available—choose whichever works best for you. Just ensure the wires are secured and won’t rub or chafe against metal surfaces that could cause a short down the line. Thankfully, there’s enough space to easily make this work.
With this completed, simply plug the headlight harness back in and you’re all set.
With the driver’s side wiring and installation complete, before moving on to the passenger side, let me show you a comparison video with the hazards on (all blinkers should be flashing). You’ll see how the driver’s side is now functioning while the passenger side isn’t.
On the passenger side, it’s a bit easier to access the headlight plug.
As you can see, even with my catch can, I can still easily fit my big hand in there.
The plug will be the same 8-prong style as the one on the driver’s side.
Follow the wiring instructions listed above for the passenger side (right side).
Once the two wires are successfully tapped, you can plug the headlight plug back in. Since Scotchlok-style connectors are fairly bulky, it’s challenging to wrap them neatly and achieve a seamless install. There will likely be some noticeable bumps in your electrical tape job. However, the important part is ensuring you wrap the connections with electrical tape to prevent moisture from entering the spliced areas, which could lead to shorts down the road.
Here’s the finished product. Reluctantly, I must admit that the JDM clear looks significantly better than the USDM orange, especially on a Championship White car.
Here you can see the full results of the install, featuring both the aero mirrors and the clear side markers.
And the whole car, including the Spoon wing, for dramatic effect.
One from the back for a different perspective.
And of course, the black-and-white one—for that raw, artsy emotion. I mean, honestly, if there were ever a more perfect example of how a picture is worth a thousand words, this is it. Truly chef’s kiss material.
Random thought: Why do the FK8 rear wheels always seem to accumulate more brake dust than the fronts? I always drive with all the driving aids completely off (long-pressing the button to disable them), never use cruise control, and currently have stock pads installed on both the front and rear. Surely, I can’t be the only FK8 owner to notice this or deal with this mystery. What’s going on here?
What a journey this whole process was. I gotta be honest, I don’t know if I would embark on such a monumental task again; I feel like it would be better to just find a well-recommended painter and have them give it a go. There were multiple times throughout the process where I sanded through a layer of either primer, paint, or clear, prompting me to sand it all the way back down and restart the whole process. I’m sure that my inexperience with paint and prep work also played a role in why I had so many mulligans along the way. I almost feel that because the aero mirrors were so tiny, intricate, and had many sharp lines and edges, it only made it easier to mess up, unavoidably intensifying my frustration.
This process really did take me seven months to complete. I wasn’t exactly rushing through it, and I could only work on it after work when the baby was asleep. Every time I made a mistake, I had to start over, which really slowed things down. It frustrated me to the point where I’d need to take a break from the project for a week or two before picking it back up and giving it another try. I’ll admit, there were definitely moments when I wanted to smash the mirrors on the ground and say, “Forget it, I’ll just rock no mirrors on the car.” But thankfully, I’ve grown a bit more patient in my older years.
I spent a considerable amount on spray paint, primer, and clear because I had to redo each step so many times. In total, I estimate the project cost me nearly $700, largely due to mistakes and my insistence on applying multiple durable layers. Here’s a breakdown:
- NH-0 (Championship White) spray cans: $35 each, 3 cans = $105
- NH-547 (Berlina Black) spray cans: $35 each, 4 cans = $140
- 2K clear spray cans: $30–$45 each, 5 cans = $150–$225
- Primer (dark and light): $7–$12 each, 6 cans = $42–$72
In paint alone, that totals between $450 and $540. This doesn’t include other supplies like sandpaper, tack cloths, prep wipes, tape, and masking materials.
Despite the setbacks, I’m proud of sticking with the project and pushing through the challenges. Not only am I thrilled with the results, but it taught me patience, attention to detail, and how even small victories can feel incredibly rewarding when you’ve worked hard for them.
To be completely honest, when all was said and done, the “guaranteed” paint match wasn’t perfect either. Don’t get me wrong—it’s a hell of a lot closer than the slight mismatch on my hood, but it’s still just barely off, noticeable to anyone with a sharp eye for detail like me. So now, my once-pristine $50k Civic proudly sports three different shades of Championship White.
When I focus on it, it’s frustrating. The car is practically new—it has fewer than 16,000 miles on it, for crying out loud—and yet it already looks a bit patched together. But on the flip side, this seems to be part of the modifying journey. Once you start tinkering, it’s never quite as pristine as it was when it rolled off the showroom floor.
What really amazes me, though, is how Mugen can paint-match their lip and side skirt kits perfectly to my car from 5,500 miles away. Their precision is uncanny, down to the tiniest detail. Honestly, it makes me wish I could’ve sent my First Molding hood and Spoon aero mirrors to Mugen for painting so everything would’ve have matched flawlessly.
Despite the ever-so mismatched paint, I’m still proud of the end result. Knowing I put in the effort to go above and beyond at every step makes me feel accomplished. At the time, redoing everything after every mistake was maddening, but in hindsight, those corrections mean I’m not constantly spotting imperfections now that it’s all installed.
If I’d handed this off to someone else, there likely would’ve been flaws I couldn’t live with, and I’d probably be kicking myself for not tackling it on my own.
Unfortunately, the entire process stretched out over seven months. When I finally found the motivation to work on it, I didn’t always have the energy to document every step. As a result, some of the earlier step-by-step photos shown in this post might feel a bit scattered or even missing certain stages. That said, I did manage to capture some key moments with my iPhone during the prep and painting process.
With that in mind, I’ll include those pictures below, along with brief descriptions of each stage or what I was working on in the shot. To keep things in order, I’ll start from the very beginning of the project. Some of these might look familiar—they’re similar to the DSLR shots posted above, and you might even catch a DSLR cameo in a few. These iPhone photos highlight key moments and offer a better sense of the process I went through.
Before even attempting to dive into painting the Spoon Aero mirrors, I decided to get some practice by working on my J’s Racing grille. Ever since I installed it, the grille had stayed in its unfinished matte black state. In true Functiontheory fashion, I prioritized the cooling benefits it provided over aesthetics. I slapped it on and happily enjoyed the increased airflow, not caring that it didn’t match the car.
For the past three years, the unpainted grille didn’t really bother me—especially since the hood didn’t match either. At that point, my thought process was, “Why bother painting the grille? The car already looks mismatched, so what’s one more thing?”
My relationship with this car (and, honestly, every car I’ve owned) has always been a love-hate rollercoaster. When everything’s running smoothly, I start fantasizing about making it as clean and perfect as a show car, agonizing over every tiny paint chip. But when things go sideways, I fully embrace the Functiontheory ethos and stop caring about its appearance.
It’s a constant push and pull, but hey, that’s just part of my journey as a car enthusiast—especially one who preaches so heavily about function over fashion and being All Go, No Show. Honestly, I wouldn’t wish this obsession (or burden) on anyone else. Oh, why, oh why can’t I just leave things stock?
So, here’s how my first real attempt at prepping and painting something other than wheels began. I dove in with a mix of hope and excitement, convincing myself I was going to put in so much effort that the results would be nothing short of impeccable. I even set up a makeshift ‘paint booth’ in my garage’s tool room—because, you know, that’s what professional painters do, right? I carefully laid paper on the floor, then wrapped the space in plastic, even draping it over the baby swing frame (don’t tell Angie).
I don’t know why I thought this was going to work, given how little space there was between the grille and the plastic. Spoiler alert: it didn’t work. Just like that, I gave up on the paint booth idea and lazily moved my painting outside under the patio. I also learned that sometimes fiberglass body panels have small pinholes in the gel coat, which look awful and need to be properly filled. The more you know, right?
The pinholes were especially problematic because I had the unfinished, unsealed raw fiberglass part on the car for years, which caused many pinholes to form. If I had painted the grille immediately before installing it, there would have surely been far fewer, if any.
Fortunately, these pinholes became noticeable once the primer was applied and dried. I’m glad I caught them before completely priming, painting, and clearing the grille.
Off to the parts store I went, on a quest for glazing and spot putty—something I had only just learned about… like, five minutes before leaving the house. Nothing like learning as you go, right? As challenges arise, you’ve got to actively seek solutions to succeed.
I applied it everywhere there were pinholes—which, let’s be honest, was basically everywhere.
Let it dry completely.
Then, I sanded it all down to reveal just the small pinholes that had been filled, ensuring the surface was perfectly smooth and level.
Now, skipping ahead, the entire grille is painted, cleared, cut, buffed, reassembled, and ready for install. Overall, I was happy with the results, but it wasn’t without a lot of effort. I learned a lot throughout this process and was glad I started with the grille—so I could apply what I learned when attempting to paint the more precious Spoon Aero Mirrors.
Since the bumper was off to remove the grille, I figured I might as well take a stab at painting over the ridiculous white 27WON stencil they force you to display on your car. It’s unfortunate that the 27WON intercooler is so good, otherwise, I would have gone another company that didn’t force me to rep their name.
For anyone wondering, Berlina Black is almost a perfect match. I also made sure to prep the surface thoroughly to ensure the paint wouldn’t easily chip. I’m sure I’ll inevitably get a chip or two, but so far, after nearly 1,500 miles of driving—knock on wood—I haven’t gotten a single chip.
And for some reason, in the picture, the spray pattern looks more obvious than it actually is. Trust me, once everything is reassembled, it’s not even noticeable and looks way better than the big, bold brand name plastered in white across the whole thing.
Front end looks much better now with the painted grille. I really should have done it right from when I purchased it.
This stuff is awesome! I initially tried using the clear provided in the complete color match kit, but that stuff was terrible and ended up being the reason for one of the many redo’s during the process. I did run out of the Spraymax 2K clear once and had to use some Napa 2K clear, which turned out to be very good as well, though it did cost $40 for just one can.
After abandoning the makeshift paint booth idea, I decided to paint everything outside. Yes, painting outdoors isn’t ideal—it opens up endless opportunities for contaminants to land in the paint and clear coat. I can’t tell you how many times I checked on the drying process only to find something had landed in the paint. To minimize this, I waited for days with absolutely zero wind (which are far and few in Las Vegas), and thanks to my semi-enclosed patio area, the stars finally aligned, allowing me to finish the painting without any surface contamination.
Not long after moving outside, I realized that setting the parts on a box wasn’t ideal. I switched to using bailing wire to hang the parts, which allowed me to evenly coat every side and achieve a consistent glossy finish. Unfortunately, I didn’t capture any photos of the parts hanging, as most of the painting happened late at night after work. My routine involved prepping and hanging the parts outside, painting them, waiting about 30 minutes for the paint to set, and then carefully bringing them inside to cure in my garage—a room that felt hermetically sealed compared to the outdoors.
This approach worked well. As long as I avoided contaminants during the initial painting and drying phase outside, I could let the parts cure overnight in the garage, sleeping soundly without worrying about anything ruining the finish.
My first attempts are depicted below.
Raw unfinished awaiting primer.
Primed and painted.
Then, I cleared the parts. As you can clearly see, the results left a lot to be desired, which is why I eventually scrapped the whole painting-on-a-box idea. Instead, I started hanging the parts as I went through the stages of primer, sanding, painting, sanding again, and finally clearing, before wet sanding in increments of 500 all the way up to 2500 grit.
Here’s a random selection of them sitting on top of my toolbox during one of the many redo processes.
Jump ahead a few months and many, many do-overs later, and this was the final result. I was so happy with it.
Just look at that reflection! You can also see in the background how well the white mirror housings turned out.
It was now time to reassemble the mirrors. This was a stressful situation because I didn’t want to damage anything I had spent months perfecting. As you can see below, I used some petroleum jelly to help ensure the three ball bearings stayed in place as I began reattaching the mirror housing to the base plate.
Here it is assembled.
The next extremely tedious part was getting the mirror glass to sit in the housing at the correct angle, allowing me to thread in the two T-25 Torx bolts. I came up with the idea to use painter’s tape to give me something to hold onto, since I couldn’t fit my fingers inside the housing to hold the glass in the correct orientation.
Now, completely reassembled and pretty much ready to go back on.
All that was left was to install the included weather stripping. I do wish there were more specific instructions for this, as there are a few different ways to orientate the rubber when sticking it to the base plate. There are essentially two lips of rubber that fit along the edge of the base plate. I tried my best to reference pictures online (though there aren’t really any), but in the end, I feel like the way I did it was the best approach.
As you can see, in daylight, the hood, mirrors, and car all match perfectly. It’s only under those harsh, revealing fluorescent lights that the slight differences in shade become noticeable.
Here are a few extra random B-side shots.
Here’s a quick step by step process that I used to sand/prep/finish.
Starting out with the raw unfinished mirrors as they came out of the box.
- Dry sand with 220-320 grit (I used 220).
- Then primer.
- Dry sand with 400-600 grit (I used 600).
- Then paint.
- Wet sand with 600-800 grit (I used 800).
- Then clear.
- Wet sand with 1000-1500 grit (I used 1000)
- Then prep for polishing by wet sanding again using 1500-3000 grit (I used 1500, 2000, then 2500). Be careful here because it’s very easy to sand through the clear, and the water used with the wet sanding makes it even more difficult to tell when you are getting close to sanding through the clear.
- Then finish them off by polishing with a DA machine, starting with an abrasive polishing compound, then moving to a finishing compound, then wax, and finally sealing it all with ceramic coating. For best results, do not begin the polishing stage until at least a few days or weeks after completing the clearing process. By waiting, you allow the paint and clear to properly dry and harden, and any other sort of chemical byproducts to off-gas and not get sealed in with the wax or ceramic final stage. Sometimes the off-gassing causes haziness or imperfections in the clear.
Final Thoughts:
As expected, these mirrors are everything I had hoped for and more. They truly transform the car’s overall look, giving it a sharper and more refined appearance. While the mirrors are small, which slightly compromises visibility, the wider view from the curved glass helps compensate. The blue-tinted glass significantly reduces glare from lights and enhances the clarity of reflections, making it easier to spot objects.
That said, don’t expect the same level of visibility as with the OEM mirrors. However, the adjustability of the glass allows you to easily fine-tune the angle to suit your height and driving position. This is a notable improvement over older Spoon mirrors (from the golden era of Hondas), which often lacked sufficient adjustability and ultimately creating blind spots.
One thing that genuinely impressed me after installing the Spoon Aero mirrors is how they improved the car’s aerodynamics. I noticed a significant reduction in wind buffeting inside the cabin when certain windows were rolled down. Additionally, there’s no wind noise, howling, or any odd sounds coming from the mirrors—even at speeds up to 146 mph. The mirrors remain rock-solid, with no vibrations in the glass, providing clear and consistent visibility.
Of course, this level of quality is exactly what I expected from Spoon and other high-end brands. There was never any real doubt, but I felt it was worth highlighting for anyone skeptical about the value of these mirrors. For those who argue that Spoon mirrors are overpriced, impractical, or just for show, this performance speaks for itself and leaves little room for criticism.
After this entire rollercoaster of a journey, I can confidently say I’ll probably never attempt to paint anything on my car to this level again. There were countless moments where I just wanted to throw in the towel and say, “Good enough,” but deep down, I knew I’d be kicking myself later if I didn’t give it my all. That mindset definitely led to more than a few hours (and days… and weeks… and months) of frustration, but hey, that just means I really, really wanted it. And in the end, it makes the victory feel all the sweeter.
Originally, I wanted to carry over the neon yellow style that I had on the OEM mirrors. However, I ultimately couldn’t find, nor did I feel confident in my knowledge, experience, or tools to wrap the Spoon mirror housings in neon yellow. Additionally, gloss neon yellow vinyl is surprisingly hard to find. I briefly considered painting them neon yellow, but I couldn’t find any readily available consumer spray paints that would meet my expectations—other than the Krylon or Rust-Oleum options from Home Depot, which I was hesitant to use. I wasn’t willing to “test” those on my Spoon Aero mirrors.
In the future, when the inevitable rock chips appear, I might revisit the idea. I do have a bigger vision for the car, with plans to eventually make the Spoon wing end plates, mirror housings, and possibly the J’s front grille neon yellow. But, honestly, this is a pretty extreme look, and I want it executed perfectly—so it’s a risky project to undertake.
For now, I’m genuinely content with how the car looks. It’s everything I’ve dreamed of, at least for the moment. But let’s not kid ourselves—hedonic adaptation is lurking around the corner, waiting to whisper, “You know what would really complete this? Spoon bumpers.” And so the endless cycle begins again. I guess that’s why I can’t just call myself a hobbyist—no, I’m an addict, plain and simple. They say addiction is a disease, and maybe they’re right, because this one has taken over my life. Like any addiction, it builds. You get your fix, but then the high fades, and suddenly you’re craving more, even when you’re driving something that most people would kill to own.
Don’t misunderstand me—my car isn’t blasé, nor am I jaded. It’s just that this is the vicious, self-inflicted cycle I fell into the moment I decided to modify my first car. There’s a certain absurdity to it, but you can’t deny the perks. The constant push to improve keeps me motivated—not just for the car, but for life. It’s a mindset: never settle, always aim higher. Sure, I could settle for “good enough,” but where’s the fun in that? And yeah, I know, it’s a bit ironic coming from someone with a heavily modified FK8 talking about “good enough” like I’m not already a 1%er.
Let’s be real—this FK8 is just a stepping stone. One day, I’ll be behind the wheel of a Porsche GT3, probably debating whether carbon fiber wipers would shave off a bit more weight. Okay, maybe not anytime soon—like, in the next 18 years—but still. Hondas are awesome, no doubt, but come on, wouldn’t a GT3 just be the bee’s knees? Hey, manifestation is a real thing, and the power of your mind is infinite.
If you’ve made it all the way to the end, thank you so much for taking the time to read this. I know it was long-winded, but everything I talked about here comes from a place of genuine passion. Cars aren’t just a hobby for me—they’re a way of life, a medium for self-expression, and a connection to something bigger.
With every post I share, my goal is to educate and inspire new and upcoming enthusiasts to pursue this for themselves. To build something meaningful, not for likes, followers, or monetization, but because it speaks to who they are. Yes, those things can bring happiness, but they shouldn’t be the driving force behind why you’re “into cars.”
For so many of us, this isn’t just about the machines—it’s about self-discovery. It’s about finding out who we really are, overcoming struggles, or channeling our energy into something that keeps us grounded when life feels overwhelming. This passion is more than a pastime; it’s a way to stay connected, stay inspired, and sometimes, stay sane.
If you have any questions, thoughts, or just want to say hello, please don’t hesitate to reach out. You can email me at Billy@Functiontheory.com, send me a DM on Instagram @Functiontheory, or simply leave a comment below. I genuinely look forward to hearing from you!