Detent springs, what are they and what do they do?
Put simply…
A detent spring is a type of spring designed to provide resistance and hold a component or mechanism in a specific position. It is commonly used in various mechanical systems to ensure precise operation. The main purpose of a detent spring is to create a tactile feedback or a “click” sensation when certain actions are performed, such as turning a knob, sliding a switch, or pressing a button. This feedback helps users to interact with a device more effectively by providing confirmation that a specific action has been executed. The detent spring adds a level of control and precision to the overall functionality of the mechanism. It helps prevent accidental movements or unwanted changes in position and enhances the overall user experience by providing a satisfying tactile response.
In general automotive terms.
In a transmission, a detent spring is used to provide resistance and hold the shifter in a specific gear position. The detent spring is typically located inside the shifter mechanism and works in conjunction with a series of notches or grooves on the shifter assembly.
When you move the shifter into a specific gear position, the detent spring engages with the corresponding notch or groove, creating a mechanical “click” or tactile feedback. This click sensation is felt when you shift the gears and helps to ensure that the gear selection is secure and prevents accidental shifting.
The detent spring works by applying pressure against the shifter assembly, effectively locking it into place. This pressure prevents the shifter from easily moving out of the selected gear position, providing a sense of resistance. It helps to maintain the position until you intentionally shift to a different gear.
By utilizing a detent spring, the transmission ensures that the shifter stays in the desired gear position, allowing for smooth and precise gear changes. It contributes to the overall functionality and reliability of the transmission by reducing the likelihood of gear slippage or unintentional shifts.
More specifically, shift fork detent.
Shift fork detent springs are small coil springs used in manual transmissions to provide resistance and positive engagement between the shifting forks and their corresponding gears or synchro hubs. These springs play a crucial role in ensuring smooth and precise gear shifting.
When you shift gears in a manual transmission, the shift forks move to engage or disengage the gears. The detent springs are responsible for holding the shift forks in position, and aligning them with the desired gears or synchro hubs. This prevents the forks from moving unintentionally and ensures that the gears are properly engaged.
The detent springs are typically located inside the transmission housing, near the shift forks. They apply a constant force against the shift forks, keeping them in the desired gear position. When you move the shift lever, the detent springs provide resistance and create a noticeable “click” or tactile feedback, indicating that the gears have been successfully engaged.
These springs are designed with a specific level of tension to provide just enough resistance to hold the forks in place. The tension is carefully calibrated to ensure positive engagement without causing excessive force or difficulty in shifting. The detent springs also help to absorb any minor vibrations or shocks that may occur during gear changes, contributing to a smoother overall shifting experience.
It’s important to note that the design and positioning of shift fork detent springs may vary depending on the specific transmission model and manufacturer. However, their fundamental purpose remains the same – to provide resistance and ensure precise gear engagement in a manual transmission.
Back to my musings.
Installing this upgrade is a cost-effective way to instantly enhance the shifting experience, providing a noticeable difference in both the feel and response. While many may interpret this as an improvement, it’s crucial to be aware of the potential risks involved. These modifications have the potential to adversely affect not only the shifting mechanisms but also the transmission’s overall health, including the shift forks. Careful consideration should be given to these factors before proceeding with the upgrade.
Some aftermarket companies are randomly elevating the spring rate of detent springs to arbitrary levels and claiming this as an enhancement compared to original equipment manufacturers (OEMs). Although this alteration does indeed alter the overall driving experience and relate a sensation similar to that of a “race car,” certain companies’ excessively high spring rates have resulted in the breakage of detent springs. Consequently, this can lead to transmission lockouts and internal damage.
I completely understand the appeal of a cost-effective modification that can be effortlessly installed by oneself, resulting in an instant perception of enhancement. Nevertheless, it is important to bear in mind that the installation of aftermarket detent springs does not earn the definition of one’s automobile as a “build”. They are merely there to change the shifter feel and allow one to tailor their car to their specific preferences.
I might even describe aftermarket detent springs as a “novelty” modification. A novelty item is an object that is intentionally created without any practical purpose and is marketed for its uniqueness, humor, or simply as something innovative. When it comes to installing aftermarket detent springs, there isn’t a practical objective other than transforming the overall shifter sensation. It alters the tactile feedback experienced when engaging or disengaging gears. For some, this means enhanced gear shifting as the transmission becomes customized to their driving style. However, others may find their driving experience negatively affected if they have become accustomed to driving without upgraded detent springs.
This is the exact reason why there exist such conflicting viewpoints about them. Many individuals who believe they improved the shifting or eliminated gear grinding adamantly insist that these modifications are the epitome of excellence. Conversely, differing voices, who experienced a less favorable shifting experience, argue that undertaking such modifications ranks among the most regrettable choices.
In layman’s terms: The installation of aftermarket detent springs does not provide any tangible performance benefits. These springs are solely designed to enhance the tactile feedback, which can act like a placebo when installed. The stiffer the detent, the more pronounced the tactile sensation will be. Nevertheless, it is important to note that detent springs do not contribute to any measurable performance improvements, nor do they prevent any sort of gear grinding. Installing them only changes the feedback to the driver via the shift knob.
By now, you might be wondering: How can I, (the author of this blog) criticize detent springs while simultaneously installing them in my car and providing a detailed step-by-step guide?
Well… One… Because the world is filled with misleading information that spews from sources lacking firsthand experience, numerous opinions are formed based on secondhand feedback and biased facts presented by one-sided viewpoints. Often, these sources are sponsored or have vested interests that incentivize them to distort claims. Two… I was genuinely intrigued by the idea of testing them out to discover their impact on my shifting. Additionally, I saw this as a perfect opportunity to create valuable content and spread knowledge not only about the installation process of a detent spring for the FK8 (and probably the FL5) but also about what they are.
So if it wasn’t obvious from the picture above, I went with the FK8TD detent springs. I was drawn to the FK8TD detent springs because John specifically mentions how “rigorous testing” had been done on multiple vehicles and “extreme care” was taken to ensure that no excessive pressure was being applied to the shift forks. Of all the detent spring kits out there, FK8TD (John) was the only one to highlight the fact that he didn’t just throw a random stiffer spring in and call it an improvement.
The FK8TD kit truly stands out from the competition thanks to its extensive focus on overall longevity and reliability. It boasts not just two, but four brand-new detent springs, setting it apart from other companies in the market. This unique feature allows for a more gradual increase in spring rate for each individual spring, resulting in a significantly enhanced overall performance in both the gear engagement and a more confident throw while in racing conditions (if you install the optional 4th spring). By distributing the rate increase across four separate springs, the risk of excessive wear or premature failures is greatly reduced. Unlike kits with only two springs, which require a substantial rate increase to achieve noticeable improvements in shifting, the FK8TD kit achieves a measurable upgrade with a more subtle adjustment across four springs.
Let me…
Bring them in…
for a close-up.
BOOM!
On to the installation process! Below is what we are starting with… A freshly popped hood and everything still fully assembled.
To proceed, it is necessary to remove the airbox to gain access to the detent springs on the transmission. Start by unplugging the MAF sensor.
A simple pinch of your fingers will unclamp the plug from the MAF.
Because I have an aftermarket intake, I secure the MAF plug between the rubber hose and the vacuum pump. This ensures that my plug doesn’t fall down and become out of reach when I reinstall the airbox. I hate it when the airbox is all secured back in the car, and the plug has fallen. Given that it’s so tight in there once reinstalled, I can’t fit my hand down to fish it out. This results in frustration, and having to end up taking the air box back out.
Next, we are going to loosen the hose clamps securing the intake tube to the MAF.
Then, loosen the hose clamp on the purge jet pump assembly.
Slide the hose clamp off.
Now, loosen the hose clamp on the breather tube.
Pull the breather tube out of the intake tube.
Lastly, loosen the hose clamp securing the intake tube to the inlet pipe.
Now that all the components are loosened, it’s crucial to pause! Avoid removing the intake tube until the airbox is also loosened. The silicone intake tube fits tightly between the inlet pipe and the MAF, and you must ensure that the airbox has some leeway to safely detach the tube without causing any damage. A lot of times the edges of the inlet pipe (both OEM or aftermarket) can cut or tear the silicone tubing if you aggressively pull on it to remove it. This can also be equally important when reinstalling as well.
Now, proceed to the air intake seal and carefully use a pick to detach the clips securing the seal to the front bulkhead cover.
I discovered a crispy leaf lodged in there. I suppose my car fancied a little snack. Just remember, when you’re removing it, take it one clip at a time. We don’t want to risk damaging the rubber seal where the clip secures by pulling too hard on the rubber.
You simply need to detach the clips securing the seal to the bulkhead. The rest of the seal connected to the airbox can remain in place.
Now remove the X2 10mm bolts that secure the airbox.
One.
Two.
Almost ready for removal.
Lastly, don’t forget about the one remaining 10mm bolt that keeps the intake firmly attached to the car. For those with a stock intake, there will be an extra 10mm bolt securing the airbox to the chassis (making it a total of two 10mm bolts attaching it to the chassis and two ensuring it’s secured to the front bulkhead). However, in the case of a PRL intake, there’s only one bolt safeguarding the airbox to the chassis (as depicted in the image below), in addition to the two 10mm bolts securing it to the front bulkhead.
Now that the airbox is loose and can easily wiggle around, you can remove the intake tube.
The airbox can be pulled out with a firm force, as it is designed with a securely attached rubber grommet to a dowel at the bottom.
Next up, since I’ve got a strut bar, I gotta take it off to get to the battery. Take out the bolt on the driver’s side and then just slightly loosen the bolt on the passenger side. That’ll let you swing the bar up and out of the way without having to take out the strut bolts.
If you have already removed your strut alignment pin, it is absolutely essential that you do not loosen the X3 strut bolts. By doing so, you may inadvertently disrupt the alignment, potentially causing the strut to slide in either direction. This can have an impact on the camber and ultimately throw the toe out of specification. So, exercise extreme caution and ensure the strut bolts remain securely tightened, and only remove your strut bar the way I have.
All swung out of the way.
Now we can remove the battery. Start by loosening the negative terminal with an 8mm socket.
Pull the negative wire out of the way, tucking it behind the fuse box.
See how I have the terminal positioned between the fuse box and the chassis.
Next, lift the plastic cover of the positive terminal and expose the 8mm nut that needs to be loosened.
The positive wire isn’t as easy to tuck out of the way, so I use a screwdriver to wedge it in and hold the wire out of the way as the battery is removed.
Next, take a 10mm socket and remove the battery tie-down nuts.
To gain access to the 10mm nut adjacent to the driver’s strut mount, I recommend utilizing a 10mm wrench. This is particularly useful due to the presence of the strut bar bracket I have on my car. If you don’t have a strut bar or your bracket is different, you should be able to just use the 10mm socket.
The battery is now fully prepared for effortless removal. Well, maybe not effortless because this thing is heavy AF
Removing the battery allows for clear visibility of the plastic battery tray, which needs to be lifted out as well.
Now we have to unbolt a few 10mm’s and unclip some clips.
Start by removing this clip.
Then this clip.
There is a crucial 10mm bolt that secures the positive wire to the battery tray. Despite my oversight in capturing an image of it before its removal, rest assured that you will easily identify it when you proceed to relocate the positive wire after disengaging both clips. Lastly, Not pictured, you must also remove both the battery tray and battery tray brackets.
Removing the battery tray is a straightforward process. However, accessing the bracket bolts may take a bit more effort, since a few are positioned deeper under it. Rest assured, with the right tools and a bit of patience, you’ll have no trouble managing the task.
Now everything’s been cleared out to make way for the actual detent spring installation process. But before we dive in, let me show you a screenshot of the transmission “exploded diagram” that shows which detents we’re replacing (check out the colors).
First, in the screenshot below, you can see the ball bearings that I will mention in the steps below. The ball bearings are indicated as #40, and it is crucial to prevent them from falling out while removing the detent springs. If they do fall out, ensure thorough cleaning and then carefully reposition them in the detent spring hole before inserting the spring and bolt.
DISCLAIMER!!! for some reason, the exploded diagram provided by Honda only shows two bolts (ball spring screws) that I have circled in GREEN. However, there are actually three bolts, and as you can see I have also used three GREEN circles to indicate where the three bolts go into the transmission. The RED circle indicates where the optional fourth spring that comes with the FK8TD kit goes. I opted to install all four.
I began the detent spring swap-out procedure by initially fitting the “optional” detent spring. Begin by releasing the wiring harness from this specific spot. The indicated area is the one I have highlighted in RED on the aforementioned exploded view.
Then, use some pliers to remove the second clip that secures the wiring harness in place.
The wiring harness can now gently be pulled away from the transmission, revealing the location of our first detent spring bolt. I’m using the tip of the pliers to point to the correct bolt. Again, for reference, this is also indicated by the RED color on the above diagram.
You can easily remove the bolt with a shallow 12mm socket attached to a 3/8th ratchet.
See below how the bolt that houses the detent spring is now ready to be removed.
Below, you will find a comparison between the OEM spring (black) and the FK8TD spring (silver). The OEM spring is slightly thicker but shorter, while the FK8TD spring is longer. As a result, when the bolt is fully reinstalled, the FK8TD spring experiences greater preload. Don’t forget that there is a small ball bearing that is left in the trans when the detent spring bolt is removed. Make sure that the singular ball bearing stays in the transmission.
It is crucial to locate and reinsert the ball bearing if it falls out; this step cannot be overlooked. Once retrieved, ensure the bearing is firmly in place before threading the detent spring bolt back in. A properly installed ball bearing is essential for the transmission to operate optimally. Its secure placement within the transmission is imperative to prevent malfunction or performance issues.
Rethread that detent spring bolt with the new detent spring, ensuring that the ball bearing is also in place. the torque spec is 16 lb./ft.
The initial (optional) detent bolt is readily accessible, but as for the following three, you need to display some mechanical expertise. Removing the transmission mount is an absolute necessity to reach these three essential detent bolts. The fact is, bypassing this step is not an option. While you might squeeze two of those three bolts out without removing the mount, the final one demands its removal. Take this professional advice: remove that transmission mount right off the bat, before even attempting to squeeze those two bolts out. It will streamline the entire process and spare you a world of annoyance. Allow me to guide you through the steps of removing the transmission mount.
Here’s a glimpse of what your engine bay will resemble—though, let’s clarify that in your case, the battery tray and bracket should already be detached. I’ll delve into the reasons why mine is still installed further along in this post.
The last three that we need to access are actually hiding underneath this transmission mount. Again, for reference, they are all indicated by the GREEN in the diagram above. Below, you can see that I’m using my socket to point out the mount they are under.
Once again, I’m gonna make it super clear where to find those sneaky detent spring bolts underneath the mount.
To get in there, first, we gotta move the ECU just a tad. Oh, and by the way, even though the pics have the battery tray in place, you absolutely gotta take it out to reach some of those transmission mount bolts. Again, I will explain later on why my pictures depict the battery tray being installed.
Start by loosening the 10mm bolt that holds the ECU bracket to the chassis.
Then, with a long extension, access the second 10mm bolt securing the ECU bracket.
Below I’m highlighting the excessively long extension needed to access the bolt.
Below, you can see the bolt ready for removal.
Lastly, there is a third and final 10mm bolt that needs to be removed.
Again, you will need to utilize the excessively long extension.
Detach the two clips that firmly secure the wiring harness to the bracket.
There’s plenty of space now to move the ECU out of the way, revealing two of the three sneaky detent spring bolts. Just make sure you don’t accidentally disconnect any part of the ECU wiring harness.
With the ECU out of the picture, now you can see two of the three 12mm detent spring bolts that need to be removed. They’re hidden within the gap of the transmission mount. Although getting a picture of the third one is impossible, it’s definitely there. If you’re feeling lost, just scroll back up and check out those three GREEN circles – that’s where we need to get to now.
In this pic, check out how I cleverly used zip ties to secure the ECU, keeping it out of the way so I could easily access the transmission mount bolts.
Again, I’m just pointing out with my finger where the pesky bolts are hiding in case it wasn’t clear before.
You can see the two trying to hide down under the mount.
The transmission mount must not be removed until the transmission is properly supported. This step is crucial to prevent any damage or mishaps during the process. Do this by jacking up the car’s front end, placing it on jack stands, and removing the aluminum undertray. This allows you to safely get a jack under the transmission to support it.
Use a piece of wood to protect the aluminum transmission casing from damage. Carefully pump up the jack until the wood lightly touches the transmission case. Avoid applying excessive force to the transmission. Keep in mind that the goal is to prevent it from dropping down when the mount is removed, so there shouldn’t be much (if any) upward force.
As shown below, it is essential to entirely remove the battery tray and tray support bracket to access all the transmission mount bolts. After removing the mount from both the chassis and transmission, only then will you be able to locate the concealed third detent bolt.
Here is what the battery tray and tray bracket look like when removed.
I breezed through the transmission mount removal without pausing to take extensive photos—I was in the zone. It’s crucial to highlight the necessity of detaching the chassis ground strap, which is connected to the transmission mount. This step guarantees a straightforward removal process. Just so you know, the ground strap is fastened firmly with a 10mm bolt.
Here are the two detent bolts we could barely see through the gap of the transmission mount as pictured earlier.
And here is that third one that was hidden.
Now, easily remove the three detent bolts and springs, and proceed to replace them with the three detent springs provided by FK8TD. Remember to ensure that the ball bearings stay in the transmission throughout the process and the detent bolts are torqued to 16 lb./ft.
And a bit more zoomed out for reference.
Now, let’s proceed with the reassembly. Start by reinstalling the transmission mount and lowering the jack to ensure the engine is safely bolted in. The X3 bolts that secure it to the chassis (#1 in the diagram below) should each be torqued to 55 LB/FT. The X2 nuts and X2 bolts that secure the mount to the transmission (#2 and #3 in the diagram below) should each be torqued to 58 LB/FT. Lastly, don’t forget to reattach the chassis ground strap to the mount.
Then, make sure that the ECU is properly positioned and secured. Finally, proceed with reinstalling the battery tray and tray bracket. You’ll notice that the tray bracket is already bolted back in, as shown below.
The tray can now be installed.
Here is a zoomed-out picture of what it should now be looking like. Ecu back in its place and completely bolted back in. The battery tray is now ready for the battery too, just make sure to reinstall the plastic tray before the battery goes back in.
The battery now goes back in too.
The battery tie down back on.
And then Viola! you’re all done and back together.
I know, I know… I totally skipped a bunch of steps, but honestly, I was just so done with this project because it started simple and then became a huge mess. I started working on it at 11 pm after getting off of work, and everything was going fine until I realized I had to take out the transmission mount to get to that third sneaky bolt.
This realization pushed me over the edge. FK8TD failed to provide any instructions or directions on how or where these should be placed, leaving me to navigate this seemingly straightforward installation blindly. This is one of the reasons I wanted to create this HOWTO, so I could help other fellow enthusiasts if they were up to the task of installing these detent springs.
As you can tell, I was enthusiastic and optimistic at the beginning of the process. I meticulously captured every step through photographs. When I finally installed the first of the four detent springs, my joy knew no bounds. Then as you can tell by the pictures, once I realized two of the last three were going to be difficult and the third and final one was going to be impossible to reach without removing the mount. I just blacked out with rage and didn’t do my best to document the process.
I was mainly frustrated because I started off doing all this work without having my car jacked up. Once I found out that the transmission mount needed to be removed, I knew that meant I had to jack up the car to support the transmission. Jacking up my car requires me to drive it up onto a couple of 2×6 pieces of wood because my car is so low and I can’t fit even a low-profile jack under it. This meant that I had to put everything back together in the engine bay so the car could start, drive it up on the 2×6 pieces, and only then I could get it jacked up. After dealing with the challenge of putting everything back together, only to take it all back apart right away, I dismantled everything to where it was just 25 minutes prior.
This is also why some of my pictures showed the battery tray and bracket still installed when, as mentioned, it should have been removed.
As I embarked on what can only be described as an epic saga of mechanical masochism, I found myself in the garage, midnight oil burned, tools in hand, at the whims of what seemed like a metal beast that just wouldn’t cooperate. Trust me, when the clock struck 3 am, I wasn’t still up because of my party animal instincts—nope, I was elbow-deep in a love-hate relationship with my car’s transmission mount/detent spring install.
And why, you ask? Well, apparently my zodiac sign decided I needed to add ‘late-night mechanic’ to my resume. Thanks, stars! It must be that stubborn streak in the sky’s blueprint that made me refuse to call it quits. With every bolt, I proved that when my sign says ‘persistent’, it really means ‘won’t stop even if it makes no sense.’
Fast forward to the moment of enlightenment: Understanding that I needed to remove the transmission mount. A true ‘Aha!’ moment, wrapped in grease-stained revelation. So, here’s a toast to next time, when, fingers crossed, this newfound know-how will shave hours off the sequel.
Below is a picture of everything all put back together (at 3 am)
Because the battery got disconnected, the car’s gonna freak out with a bunch of warnings when you start it up. Relax, just take it for a spin (for at least 15 minutes), then stop, switch off the ignition, and start it up again. That should clear them all out. If the warnings are still there it is most likely because you didn’t drive around for 15 minutes, just do those steps again.
Pictured below are the four OEM detent springs that I replaced with the FK8TD detent springs.
As you can see, there are three that are the same and one that is drastically different.
The three that are the same are for the shift forks (those are the ones we had to remove the transmission mount to access) As you can see in the image below, I have highlighted the three shift forks. One shift fork is for gears 1-2, one is for gears 3-4, and the last one is for gears 5-6. By slightly increasing the stiffness of each shift fork spring you are changing the tactile feel of each 1-2 shift, 3-4 shift, and 5-6 shift.
The fourth “optional” spring, depicted to the right of the other three, plays a crucial role in aiding the weighted shift lever of the transmission. While it does not directly influence the feel of changing gears, its purpose is to enhance the lever’s functionality by increasing the energy transferred during gear shifts. This enables the lever to work more effectively, resulting in smoother and more efficient gear changes.
It’s optional to install the fourth spring, as FK8TD mentions. This modification is particularly beneficial for drag racing or roll racing, situations that demand rapid shifting. The greater force (quicker shifting) applied to the shift knob while changing gears in a racing situation is slightly amplified due to the stiffer detent spring, enhancing the inertia of the weighted shift lever. If installed, this spring can significantly improve the driving experience during dynamic driving, compared to regular conditions like starting from a stoplight or daily city driving.
So, if you choose to install the fourth spring (like I did), temper your expectations until the crucial moment of seeing red and high-velocity shifting is employed. It’s only when that moment comes that the decision to install the fourth (optional) spring will truly prove its worth.
Although I previously mentioned that detent springs could be considered as a “novelty” modification without any proven performance gains, they undeniably enhance the overall driving experience. By providing the driver with heightened tactile feedback while operating the shifter, detent springs create a profoundly engaging driving sensation. This mechanical connection between the driver and the transmission can even evoke the exhilaration of shifting gears in a legendary vehicle like the McLaren F1 GTR. So, while not directly impacting performance, detent springs undoubtedly contribute to a more gratifying and captivating shifting experience.
This begs the question then… Detent springs are such an affordable modification, why not give them a try? They are relatively easy to install (now that you know you have to take the transmission mount off), which can be done in about two hours in your garage, and they can greatly enhance your driving experience and bring you increased joy on the road.
As mentioned earlier, I was immediately intrigued by the FK8TD detent springs due to their claim of enhancing the shifting experience by improving engagement without subjecting the shift forks to excessive pressure. This became a compelling reason for me to give them a try, as I wanted to prolong the lifespan of my transmission while enjoying a more confident and precise shifting feel.
With that being said, do not expect the FK8TD detent spring kit to drastically improve the tactile feel of your shifter. To be completely transparent, my initial reaction when moving the shifter around after the installation left something to be desired. To be honest, I was really expecting more of a mechanical feel while shifting through the gears. However, I had to remind myself that these detent springs went through rigorous testing on multiple vehicles to help find the happy medium between increased tactile feel and too much wear on the transmission.
After experiencing the sheer exhilaration of putting a couple of hundred miles on my car, a newfound clarity engulfed me… I have come to fully comprehend the meticulous design applied by FK8TD to those detent springs. It may not possess the ostentatiously mechanical sensation that certain enthusiasts yearn for. However, allow me to assure you, that it is a game-changer that metamorphoses the shifting experience in each and every gear. Although I struggle to precisely articulate the nature of its worth, one thing becomes undeniably clear: it surpasses expectations on all fronts, leaving no room for doubt or hesitation. And let’s face it, for 25 bucks, it is worth your while to at least give it a shot.
In short; After installing these, the shifting just feels right. It’s almost as if it transformed the overall driving experience from a boring economical Civic to a purpose-built sports car. Again, these will not stop the inevitable second-gear grind that is an all too common issue among the FK8 platform.
My primary aim in creating this post was to provide clear insight into the purpose and function of a detent spring. It’s important to recognize that a detent spring doesn’t necessarily enhance performance, but rather enhances the driving sensation, ultimately improving the overall driving experience. Furthermore, it’s crucial not to blindly assume that every aftermarket company prioritizes the longevity and reliability of your vehicle.
Lastly, if you’re considering adding detent springs as an affordable and enjoyable novelty upgrade, I highly recommend opting for the FK8TD ones. Despite the need to remove the transmission mount for installation, the process is not particularly challenging, albeit somewhat more cumbersome and time-consuming. If you just follow my guide and take your time, you should be able to have them installed in a few hours.
I’m so thankful for the time you’ve invested in carefully reading through my in-depth explanations and installation guidelines. It means a lot that you’ve paid such close attention to the details. My sincere wish is that you’ve gained some useful insights from this. Even if you decide not to purchase detent springs, it’s comforting to know that you’ve been informed of their genuine narrative.
Plus, now that you’re informed you won’t be so easily swayed by loudmouth internet mechanics that go around spreading misinformation about detent springs. You might even be able to help see to it that the truth is told (depending on how much effort you want to give those losers)
Feel free to reach out with any questions, share your thoughts, or just drop a friendly hello! I’m eager to connect with you through email at Billy@functiontheory.com, directly via Instagram DM @Functiontheory, or by commenting right here on this post. I look forward to our engaging conversations!